History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition: 1990-2010 (Paris, France)

As some may remember, a while ago I blogged about the first part of the History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition (aka 'Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine'), which covered the 70s and 80s. Hosted by the 'Musée des Arts Décoratifs', the showcase featured the more iconic styles of eras long forgotten by some. The second part of this installation, which was presented this Spring, might be a little closer to heart for most though, considering the pieces presented, stem from very recent history. Curated once again by Olivier Saillard, the journey through the 90s and 2000s took a look at key designers who revolutionized the fashion world and runway shows with their unique voice, whether it was the Japanese heavyweights Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo - or subsequently the Belgian designers who followed in their footsteps: Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester or Veronique Branquinho. Then there were the newcomers such as Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan, not to mention the designers who gave established fashion houses a breath of fresh air: Galliano for Dior, Ford for Gucci, Lagerfeld for Chanel, Elbaz for Lanvin and Ghesquière for Balenciaga.

The key look from the exhibition poster: Maison Martin Margiela blazer.

As with all exhibitions, it was impossible for the curator to feature every designer from recent history. So while some may question the lack of American talent (with the exception of Tom Ford) or omissions which included Jil Sander, who ruled 90s minimalism, - or fellow female creatives such as Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo to name a few - it was definitely still a very well laid-out and expansive presentation. At times it was a bit odd to see pieces, which had so recently graced the runway or appeared in boutique windows, displayed in a museum setting. But if anything, it's a nice reminder that even collections of the recent past, already deserve a place in fashion history.

Apologies if some of the images aren't of the best quality. The lighting wasn't ideal for photography.


Maison Martin Margiela

Veronique Branquinho

Ann Demeulemeester


Dries van Noten


Junya Watanabe / Issey Miyake


Comme des Garçons


Yohji Yamamoto


Azzedine Alaïa


Helmut Lang


Prada


Lanvin par Claude Montana


Hussein Chalayan


Alexander McQueen

A dress from SS04, which was almost impossible to capture.

Christian Dior par John Galliano

Click here to see the rest of the exhibit, which includes Vivienne Westwood, Chanel, Lanvin, Balenciaga and more.

History Of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition - 70s/80s (Paris, France)

With the end of Paris Fashion Week looming, and everyone eager for all that is FW11, it's sometimes nice to take a step back... or almost literally step back in time. One of my favorite museums, the 'Musée des Arts Décoratifs', which had previously hosted terrific exhibitions dedicated to Madeleine Vionnet and Sonia Rykiel, recently decided to present a complete history of fashion spanning the four decades between 1970-2010. Titled 'Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine' ('an idealized history of contemporary fashion') curator Oliver Saillard, who has also published a book under the same name, decided to showcase long forgotten works by some of today's finest couturiers. Split in two parts, the first exhibition, which covers the 70s and 80s, ended last year, but if you're in Paris now, I strongly urge you to check out part two (90s and 00s) which will be featured on this blog soon.

The first looks at the entrance displayed early YSL and Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Though the 70s and 80s, don't necessarily trigger fond memories in the eyes of fashion critics, it was the more controversial works of Yves Saint Laurent (and his infamous 1971 collection) as well as Jean-Paul Gaultier's tattoo and cone-shaped bust pieces at the end of the 80s, that inspired Saillard to examine how modern couture sought to provoke and became ingrained with celebrity. Other highlights of the more low-key kind include Karl Lagerfeld's stint at Chloé and his first collections for Chanel, as well as the rising popularity of Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Kenzo and Issey Miyake. Couturiers that ruled the 80s, such as Thierry Mugler, Christian Lacroix and Azzedine Alaïa were represented as well.

Arranged on two levels (each decade presented on a different floor), the exhibition was very well laid out, while the actual pieces were stunning to behold. The pictures I took are only meant to provide you with a glimpse of my impressions but hardly reflect how incredible and timeless most of these gowns still look to this day. If you're not in Paris anytime soon or want to see more/better images and read the accompanying text, I recommend you pick up Saillard's book, which can be ordered here.

Don't forget to check out more pictures (which include Chanel and Gaultier) after the jump.

Madame Grès

The feminine draping of Madame Grès, a favorite of Grace Kelly (1978).

Sonia Rykiel / Cacharel

More for the ladies, including Rykiel's soft knits (1974-1977) and Cacharel's Liberty prints (FW 75/76).

Chloé par Karl Lagerfeld

Hard to believe these are the works of Kaiser Karl (early to mid 70s).

Issey Miyake / Jean-Charles de Castelbajac / Ter et Bantine / Kenzo

Top left: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (1974). Lower left: Ter et Bantine par Chantal Thomass (1972). Center: Issey Miyake (1974). Right: Kenzo (1971-1978).

Yves Saint Laurent

YSL's 70s art-inspired collection.

Claude Montana

Structured and leather pieces by Claude Montana (1978).

Thierry Mugler

Starting the 80s portion of the exhibition, the Mugler pieces were definitely the biggest draw and kept me coming back. Lady Gaga can prance around in Nicola Formichetti's creations all she wants, but nothing beats the 80s originals.

Beyond gorgeous, the ballerina dress dating back to 1986 decorated the stairwell, while the shiny 'angel' gowns (FW 84/85) had a group of schoolgirls (and me) literally glued to the glass cases. The winged gown on the left is the same one used for the exhibition's poster shot (top of the post).

Even the black dresses were eye-catchers, especially the one in the center adorned with headlights.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

The wonderful crazy world of Castelbajac including coats made of toy animals and dresses featuring giant prints (1983/84).

Popy Moreni

The most beautiful chiffon gowns...

Yohji Yamamoto / Issey Miyake / Comme des Garçons

Clean lines, structural shapes and colorful draping courtesy of Yamamoto (top left, bottom right, 1987/88), Rei Kawakubo (lower left, 1983-1989) and Miyake (center, top right, 1980).

Dover Street Market (London, UK)

Imagine Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Alber Elbaz, Rodarte's Mulleavy sisters and a slew of other incredible designers were to move into a large 5 storey apartment together and you might get an inkling of what the interior of Dover Street Market looks like. Unlike any other multi-brand or concept store out there, this little emporium doesn't just stick to one design. Kawakubo, the creative force behind this store sums it up best with the following quote: "I want to create a kind of market where various creators from various fields gather together and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos: the mixing up and coming together of different kindred souls who all share a strong personal vision."

If you've been to DSM, you'll know what she's talking about. If not, let's just say that this store is unlike anything you will have seen before. Dare I say it makes any other concept store (yes, even Colette in Paris) look pretty basic. This is the kind of place I wish I would 'accidentally' get locked in after opening hours. Because Kawakubo is behind it, you will get your fair dose of Comme des Garçons items... probably one of the biggest selections available. But it's so much more than that. Not only is every floor completely different in design, music, atmosphere and staff attire, but every section on each floor has a different vibe as well. You get your colorful Lanvin corner, stark minimalist Ann Demeulemeester section, clean elegant Alaïa area, not to mention the so-called 'Garden Space', the Chinese inspired shoe boudoir or the tribal infused area on the second floor.

Odd objects, including tiger head, plastic human head + selection of eyeballs & open human torsos. Not for sale... I asked.

And scattered throughout you'll see somewhat surreal items displayed in glass cases: taxidermied tiger heads, various animal skulls or fossils and the top floor showcased a few plastic models of the human anatomy. Very odd, very cool, very Rei. I realize this post might get overly long, so I will try to keep it verbally short and rely on images to convey the atmosphere. I'll also divide this post into the different floors to give a better overview.

Ground Floor

The DSM Hut in the background sells books/magazines. Towards the front: perfume tower & jewelry cases (image: DSM).

Left: New CdG arrivals and Junya Watanabe items in big wooden boxes. Right: animal skulls and other odd objects in glass cases.

Left: CdG Homme in weird orange construction... yes, that's a mannequin perched up there. Right: DSM polka-dot hut features some CdG Play pieces and DSM exclusive items.

Summary: Bizarre, industrial yet somewhat coherent in design, probably because most of the range was CdG. Jewelry included items from CdG and Ann Demeulemeester. Lots of staff (around 5-6), though half might have been security. And take the stairs... the lifts take ages to arrive.

First Floor

That hut on the right is actually the cash desk (image: DSM).

Left: more CdG. Right:CdG and Margiela

Left: I have no idea what that thing is. Probably a rabbit with a headlamp CdG Shirt section in the glass room.

Left: the Ann Demeulemeester room. Right: Azzedine Alaïa section

Summary: Industrial meets streetwear cool meets designer flagship elegance. Only one staff member, which made browsing quite relaxing. There were a few taxidermied tiger heads near a rack with Haider Ackermann pieces. The Alaïa section also included the entire range of footwear. Very tempting. Very dangerous.

Second Floor

Left: World Archive section included traditional costumes, masks, woven fabric and other artifacts from Africa & Asia. Right: TAO CdG.

Left: Garden Room featuring collections from Daniela Gregis, Charles Anastase and more World Archive. Right: DSM Shoe Space with an impressive range of Nicholas Kirkwood, Pierre Hardy and Givenchy footwear.

Complete view of the DSM Shoe Space with its Chinese-inspired decor (image: DSM)

Summary: Probably the strangest floor with its mix of tribal, CdG minimalism, Summer garden and Chinese boudoir. Around five staff members who were very attentive. Offered to bring me all the Kirkwood shoes in my size. I showed great restraint by declining the offer.

Third Floor

Lanvin in the background and towards the front: Stephen Jones hats draped on neon branches (image: DSM).

Left: Givenchy. Right: Hussein Chalayan RTW, Judy Blame accessories

Left: Gilded birdcage changing room in the CdG section. Right: TAO CdG

Summary: This area held my favorite CdG items (mostly in black) and some incredible TAO pieces. This floor had the most designer variety with collections by Gareth Pugh, Christopher Kane, Nina Ricci and Rodarte to name a few. Not quite pictured is the bed of black chiffon roses in front of the birdcage changing room.

Fourth Floor

Left: Artisanal hardware and kitchen utensils from "Labour and Wait". Right: CdG Play

Right: More CdG Play. Right: Pokit bags, Toga Archives and CdG Tricot

Rose Bakery with a nice view over Mayfair (image: DSM)

Summary: Like the ground floor, this level was more coherent in design (again, due to a predominantly CdG range) and probably one of the more 'normal' floors, considering everything was furnished in light wood. The only odd items, were the model of a head and plastic anatomical parts of the human body which were housed in glass cases (see top image).

Lower Level

John Galliano section (image: DSM)

Left: Eve Democracy. Right: Salvatore Ferragamo

Left: Partial overview of the streetwear section. Right: Billinoare Boys Club, Supreme

Summary: This floor had the smallest selection of women's clothing with menswear - in particular streetwear - dominating the area. Specific brands had their own selection housed either in caged spaces or huts, though none of them were as odd or deconstructed as the ones on previous floors. Staff were dressed in appropriate attire, i.e. if you didn't know better you'd think they were members of a hip hop band.

This is probably one of the most innovative retail spaces out there at the moment. If you're a fan of avant-garde or hard-to-find designer fashion, DSM is a must. I love coming here, just because it's such a nice change from your average glitzy flagship or overwhelmingly big department store. Occassionally DSM will also host art installations or special exhibitions. To quote Rei Kawakubo again: "We hope to make DSM more and more interesting. I enjoy seeing all the customers coming to DSM dressed in their strong, good looking and individual way. I would like for DSM to be the place where fashion becomes fascinating." I can guarantee that Kawakubo has definitely succeeded in that.

Address: 17-18 Dover Street, London W1s 4LT
Opening Hrs: Mon-Wed: 11:00-18:00, Thu-Sat: 11:00-19:00
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