Showing posts with label Hussein Chalayan. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Hussein Chalayan. Show all posts

History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition: 1990-2010 (Paris, France)



As some may remember, a while ago I blogged about the first part of the History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition (aka 'Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine'), which covered the 70s and 80s. Hosted by the 'Musée des Arts Décoratifs', the showcase featured the more iconic styles of eras long forgotten by some. The second part of this installation, which was presented this Spring, might be a little closer to heart for most though, considering the pieces presented, stem from very recent history. Curated once again by Olivier Saillard, the journey through the 90s and 2000s took a look at key designers who revolutionized the fashion world and runway shows with their unique voice, whether it was the Japanese heavyweights Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo - or subsequently the Belgian designers who followed in their footsteps: Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester or Veronique Branquinho. Then there were the newcomers such as Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan, not to mention the designers who gave established fashion houses a breath of fresh air: Galliano for Dior, Ford for Gucci, Lagerfeld for Chanel, Elbaz for Lanvin and Ghesquière for Balenciaga.

The key look from the exhibition poster: Maison Martin Margiela blazer.

As with all exhibitions, it was impossible for the curator to feature every designer from recent history. So while some may question the lack of American talent (with the exception of Tom Ford) or omissions which included Jil Sander, who ruled 90s minimalism, - or fellow female creatives such as Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo to name a few - it was definitely still a very well laid-out and expansive presentation. At times it was a bit odd to see pieces, which had so recently graced the runway or appeared in boutique windows, displayed in a museum setting. But if anything, it's a nice reminder that even collections of the recent past, already deserve a place in fashion history.

Apologies if some of the images aren't of the best quality. The lighting wasn't ideal for photography.


Maison Martin Margiela


Veronique Branquinho


Ann Demeulemeester


Dries van Noten


Junya Watanabe / Issey Miyake


Comme des Garçons


Yohji Yamamoto


Azzedine Alaïa


Helmut Lang


Prada


Lanvin par Claude Montana


Hussein Chalayan


Alexander McQueen

A dress from SS04, which was almost impossible to capture.

Christian Dior par John Galliano



Click here to see the rest of the exhibit, which includes Vivienne Westwood, Chanel, Lanvin, Balenciaga and more.

Selfridges: Project Ocean - Washed Up (London, UK)



As you all know, the fashion and retail industry is at its best when it doesn't just present the world with pretty clothes, but fights for a charitable cause. This May and June, Selfridges launched a special campaign titled 'Project Ocean' that saw the department store tackle the problem of over-fishing and poor fishing practices. Partnering with over 20 environmental and conservation groups, the main goal was to celebrate the beauty of the ocean, help the general public understand the threats to the ocean and make positive choices about the right fish to buy and eat.

As part of Project Ocean, Selfridges is raising money for the Zoological Society of London to create Marine Reserves – protected areas in the ocean set aside as safe havens for fish and their ecosystems. In addition, the store is featuring a host of activities including everything from celebrity chef cooking demonstrations to craft events for children. But the event that immediately caught my eye, was the 'Washed Up' fashion exhibition, curated by Judith Clark.

Overview of the exhibition space. The pieces were displayed in glass tanks, while visitors walked along wooden planks surrounded by corals.

Housed in the concept store, the exhibition showcases the most interesting ocean inspired pieces from big-name designers such as Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Gareth Pugh to name a few. Also on display is Lady Gaga's famous lobster hat, designed by Philip Treacy. According to Clark "it is a rare opportunity for a curator of dress to be able to draw attention of such great political importance and urgency”. Having visited this exhibit last weekend, I was stunned by how incredible the exhibition space looked and think Clark did an excellent job. The haunting and desolate backdrop of driftwood and dead coral (salvaged from customs after it was seized from illegal smugglers) provided a stark contrast to the exquisite pieces on display and highlighted the critical environmental issues of Project Ocean. The corresponding window display was equally striking. Each set of designs was categorized into groups such as 'The Deep' or 'Atlantis', depending on what the pieces were inspired by, and an accompanying fact sheet gave additional information on the subject.

Radiolarum: Hussein Chalayan / The Deep: Hussein Chalayan

Left: Hussein Chalayan- Bubble Dress FW07/08. Right: Hussein Chalayan- LED Dress, February 2009 (made of 15 000 LED lights under fabric), both in collaboration with Swarovski.


Underwater Flora: Maison Martin Margiela, John Rocha / Oil Spill: John Rocha

Left: Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal- Flora Dress FW11/12, John Rocha- Reef Dress SS11. Right: John Rocha- Black Reef Dress FW10/11


The Beach: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Mariel Manuel

Top: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac- Shark Dress SS10. Bottom: Mariel Manuel- Lobster Bodybuilder Ensemble (left) and Octopus Dress (right), both from the 'Keep Your Eye on the Doughnut' collection, 2010.


Structure & Geometry: Junya Watanabe, Sandra Backlund, Iris van Herpen

Top: Junya Watanabe- top, private collection (left), Sandra Backlund- Origami top, Ink Blot test paper (right).
Bottom: Iris van Herpen- 3D printed top and skirt, Crystalization collection.



Texture: Gareth Pugh, Iris van Herpen

Left: Gareth Pugh- Fisch Scale Dress SS11. Right: Iris van Herpen- RI011, Radiation Invasion, Ecco Leather, Porcelain Treatment.


Atlantis: Alexander McQueen, Andrea Cammarosano

Top: Alexander McQueen- Jellyfish Print Ensemble (left), Plato's Atlantis SS10. Andrea Cammarosano- Seaweed Dress, Serenada Moleculare 2008 (right). Bottom: Alexander McQueen- Jellyfish Dress, Plato's Atlantis SS10.


Octopus: Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen- Octopus Dress, Escapism Couture.


The Water's Edge: Vintage / Looking Out To Sea: Vintage

This category focused on the history of swimwear and seaside inspired leisure dresses. From left: Blue & yellow skirted swimsuit 1820s, Swimsuit C 1900, Blue & white striped bustle dress 1870s, 'Stored' dress with abstract fish motif 1850s.


Hats

Left: Philip Treacy- Lobster Hat, courtesy of Lady Gaga. Top: Naomi Filmer- Crystal Swimming Cap. Right: Stephen Jones- Sway Hat (right).

Top: 1920s Brain Coral Cloche; Judith Clark- Pearl Waves: A Hypothetical 1930s wig (embroidery: Rosie Taylor-Davies).
Bottom: Stephen Jones- Beach Comber Hat; Philip Treacy- Zero Gravity Hat.

From left: Philip Treacy- Feather Ocean Worm Hat, Justin Smith Esquire- Rope Octopus Hair, Emma Yeo- Swan 20 Headdress, Stephen Jones- Shoal Hat, Justin Smith Esquire- Rope Beach Bonnet.

Stephen Jones- Fish Mobile Hat.

From left: Dai Rees for Alexander McQueen- Echinoderm Headdress, Emma Yeo- Dragonfly 9 Headdress, Zana Gorman- Headdress, Zara Gorman- Shell Hat, Philip Treacy- Leaf Hat.

If you happen to be in the London area, I'd highly recommend a visit (the exhibition ends June 8). As a fish eater and scuba diver, I had witnessed the damage done to the marine world, but wasn't all too aware of which species were actually endangered. If you're not in the area or still want to play a part in rescuing the ocean, you can donate to Project Ocean here or inform yourself as to what type of fish you should and shouldn't eat. Selfridges has not only created a free pocket guide, available in their stores, but also designed a (free) iPhone app, complete with a fish guide, fish recipes (yum!) and restaurant reviews. And lastly, if you want to make a real statement, you can also purchase special edition Project Ocean items, including totes, tees and shoes online.

The Oxfam Curiosity Shop @ Selfridges (London, UK)



Have you ever wanted to own a red carpet dress as worn by Scarlett Johanssen? Do you adore Colin Firth to the point where you'd just like to snuggle up in his cashmere sweater? Well, fear not... all of the above and more is now possible thanks to Britain's largest charity pop-up store, which opened its doors on April 1 in Selfridges' Ultralounge. Organized by Annie Lennox, the ten day event is in its second year running and includes items donated by celebrities such as Lennox herself, both Colin Firth and his wife Livia, Scarlett Johanssen, Jude Law, Dido, Florence Welsh, Alexa Chung and Elle Macpherson to name a few, as well as donations from designers such as Stella McCartney or Vivienne Westwood. In addition, sought-after samples and vintage pieces, both high-end and more affordable have been pulled from over 700 Oxfam shops in the UK and will be made available in the pop-up store.

Some of the items up for grabs include Annie Lennox' s Alexander McQueen gown (left), Livia Firth's gown (center) and Carey Mulligan's Vionnet dress (right). The first two gowns are available online.

More stuff for sale, including Alexa Chung's Mulberry skirt suit (top left), Alison Goldfrapp's Miu Miu shoes (lower left), Vivienne Westwood dress (center), Vivienne Westwood bag (top right) and Elle Macpherson's Celine tote (lower right).

According to Oxfam: "All the money raised will go to fund Oxfam's women's projects across the world from Bangladesh and Sri Lanka to Democratic Republic of Congo, West Africa and South Africa. These projects protect support and empower vulnerable women: campaigning against violence, empowering them to fight HIV and AIDS and offering the poorest girls the chance of education. The projects funded by the shop include a women's tailoring project in Liberia which Laura Bailey recently visited with Oxfam. The money raised from last year's event has helped to transform the lives of countless women already." Last year, more than 30,000 customers visited the shop in just one week, raising an amazing £250,000 for Oxfam’s work.

A huge selection of vintage goods...

I spied cute purses and a pair of Marc Jacobs sandals.

If you're nowhere near London, don't worry: some of the most coveted pieces, including the gown Livia Firth wore to the BAFTA awards to support husband Colin, a stunning Alexander McQueen dress donated by Ms Lennox or a sequined number from Kate Moss are all available online here. There's no excuse not to visit Selfridges if you are in London though, especially considering the great cause. I dropped by the store yesterday and even though I'm usually overwhelmed by vintage shops, the spacious and colorful sales area was easy to browse and had a fantastic selection of both celebrity goods and regular (i.e. less pricier) vintage fair.

The gents had a great choice of ties (right), while the ladies could choose from a multitude of scarves and knits (left).

Loved the colorful displays, which showcased the Michael Kors heels (top right) nicely.

So many clothes, so little wardrobe space... sigh.

In addition to clothing, there was a wonderful selection of scarves, ties, bags, shoes and even trinkets such as an antique Singer sewing machine (already sold... bummer), music records, books and homeware items.

The Singer sewing machine (left) was already taken, but lots of scarves and bags were still available.

Sick of clothes? There's always the record collection or retro radios. I quite fancied the picnic set (right).

Tea for two... or more with the lovely porcelain set (left) and more for the music fans (right).

Of course the biggest draw will be the celebrity donations. Even though I didn't have the funds to buy any of them, I made a point of touching every single Colin Firth item (both he and his wife donated a lot), realized that Dido has excellent taste in clothes (her Hussein Chalayan and Vivienne Westwood coats were very cool and in great condition) and marveled at how varied Annie Lennox's style was (everything from black and simple to bright and printed).

Pre-loved Hussein Chalayan coat from Dido (top left), two dresses from Annie Lennox (lower left), Stella McCartney top (top center), Colin Firth's overcoat (lower center), Dido's Vivienne Westwood jacket (top right) and Annie Lennox' s Shanghai Tang dress (lower right).

The cutest area was undoubtedly the little corner that actually resembled a small vintage shop. It was stocked full of the more glamorous celebrity items, while ScarJo's Dolce & Gabbana dress and Colin Firth's leather jacket fronted the space. Inside, a video showed some of the celebrities describe the items they were donating, while the walls and shelves were adorned with more goodies than I could take in properly.

How cute is this shop-in-shop? And more from Colin in the form of a leather jacket. Scarlett donated this lovely Dolce & Gabbana dress (boy is she tiny...).

Inside the shop... more celebrity gowns and memorabilia. The embellished dress (lower right) is by Stella McCartney.

Shelves filled with accessories (right), while a screen featured video clips (top left) and yet another Annie Lennox find: the iconic wet-look trench.

I might actually have to go back to browse a second time and if you're in London, you'll have the chance to peruse the selection yourself - until April 10. As mentioned before, all others can still check out the online auction. I've provided a small selection of what's currently available below...

From the online auction (starting left): Livia Firth's gown as pictured at the top of the post, Kate Moss' dress, Stella McCartney boots from Beverly Knight, Colin Firth's coat and a beautiful Alexander McQueen gown by Annie Lennox (as pictured at the top of the post).

More auction items (from left): Ashish dress by VV Brown, Termperly kaftan dress, vintage Chanel suit, Emma Thompson's Jaeger dress, Jude Law's Oscar tuxedo, Jane Shepherdson's Camilla Skovgaard heels.


Selfridges Auction Homepage
The Oxfam Curiosity Shop Homepage