Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950 - V&A Exhibition (London)

 

What started out as a short blog hiatus, somehow managed to turn into a very long break. All of which I blame on work, other commitments and the fact that fashion in the last few months has left me slightly uninspired. But having dragged my friend T to the V&A Ballgowns exhibition last week, I thought it would be a nice way to revive Haute World for a bit (though bear with me - updates may still be somewhat sporadic).

Having first perused the reopened fashion galleries, which I'd highly recommend - especially considering it's free - T and I began our cultural journey on the ground floor of the exhibit. Split into two parts, this area showcased the ballgowns since 1950, while the upper level featured the more contemporary dresses. Throughout the visit, various dresses from the exhibit could be seen projected on the ceiling of the dome above.

Not surprisingly, the most striking gowns were the ones from past eras - back when formal attire was only the norm for private events and handmade for a particular client. Wearers ranged from royalty to debutantes with every outfit immaculately made and beautiful to behold. Through time, private functions evolved to the more public charity balls - and in recent years: red-carpet events.

Ballgowns since 1950

Top: Mary Donan, Yuki, Matthew Williamson and Belville Sassoon, left: Victor Edelstein, Bruce Oldfield (made for Bianca Jagger) and Murray Arbeid worn by Diana, Princess of Wales, right: Hardy Amies.

Designed for the ball: David Emanuel, Worth of London, Norman Hartnell

Rayne Shoes. Gowns and accessories by Dior

Radical Robes 1990-2012, including gowns by Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and, Zandra Rhodes

Left: Alexander McQueen dress from his last collection. Right: 'Elvis Dress' by Catherin Walker created for Diane, Princess of Wales

The biggest contrast, once you reached the upper level was that despite the beauty of the dresses, grouped together in three clusters, there seemed to be a personal touch missing. As everyone knows, these days evening dresses are worn on the red carpet for a mere few hours, chosen by a stylist and lent to a celebrity, who's body shape was never the intended target of the designer. Unlike the lower level, which featured gowns that were actually purchased by their wearers and lovingly stored for future generations, it seems an awful shame that most gowns these days are passed from one celeb to another before ending back in a designer's showroom. 

Contemporary Ballgowns

Overview of one of the upper level displays. Right: Alexander McQueen feathered gown as worn by Daphne Guinness.

Left: Craig Lawrence, Christopher Kane, Ralph & Russo (as worn by Beyonce). Right: Vivienne Westwood.

Craig Lawrence, Jenny Packham (as worn by Sandra Bullock) and Gareth Pugh's metallic gown made of leather.

Giles Deacon, Nicholas Oakwell

Amanda Wakely, Holly Fulton

Roksanda Illincic

Left: Marchesa. Right: Mark Fast, John Galliano, Felicity Brown

Erdem, Mary Katrantzou

Nevertheless, the exhibition made a good point of showing that even contemporary British fashion houses like Alexander McQueen or Vivienne Westwood have successfully bridged the gap between the red carpet and traditional royal functions. With Britain being a focus of pretty much everything these days, this exhibition is definitely worth a visit and will thankfully be open for quite a while longer. If you're in London around this time, I'd definitley urge you to check it out - especially considering the images I took don't really do the gowns much justice...

Additional images shown above are the copyright of the V&A,  Peter Macdiarmid/Getty Images

History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition: 1990-2010 (Paris, France)

As some may remember, a while ago I blogged about the first part of the History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition (aka 'Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine'), which covered the 70s and 80s. Hosted by the 'Musée des Arts Décoratifs', the showcase featured the more iconic styles of eras long forgotten by some. The second part of this installation, which was presented this Spring, might be a little closer to heart for most though, considering the pieces presented, stem from very recent history. Curated once again by Olivier Saillard, the journey through the 90s and 2000s took a look at key designers who revolutionized the fashion world and runway shows with their unique voice, whether it was the Japanese heavyweights Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo - or subsequently the Belgian designers who followed in their footsteps: Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester or Veronique Branquinho. Then there were the newcomers such as Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan, not to mention the designers who gave established fashion houses a breath of fresh air: Galliano for Dior, Ford for Gucci, Lagerfeld for Chanel, Elbaz for Lanvin and Ghesquière for Balenciaga.

The key look from the exhibition poster: Maison Martin Margiela blazer.

As with all exhibitions, it was impossible for the curator to feature every designer from recent history. So while some may question the lack of American talent (with the exception of Tom Ford) or omissions which included Jil Sander, who ruled 90s minimalism, - or fellow female creatives such as Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo to name a few - it was definitely still a very well laid-out and expansive presentation. At times it was a bit odd to see pieces, which had so recently graced the runway or appeared in boutique windows, displayed in a museum setting. But if anything, it's a nice reminder that even collections of the recent past, already deserve a place in fashion history.

Apologies if some of the images aren't of the best quality. The lighting wasn't ideal for photography.


Maison Martin Margiela

Veronique Branquinho

Ann Demeulemeester


Dries van Noten


Junya Watanabe / Issey Miyake


Comme des Garçons


Yohji Yamamoto


Azzedine Alaïa


Helmut Lang


Prada


Lanvin par Claude Montana


Hussein Chalayan


Alexander McQueen

A dress from SS04, which was almost impossible to capture.

Christian Dior par John Galliano

Click here to see the rest of the exhibit, which includes Vivienne Westwood, Chanel, Lanvin, Balenciaga and more.

Designer Sighting: John Galliano (London, UK)

About a year and a half ago, I posted my recap on the Madeleine Vionnet exhibition in Paris, mentioning that John Galliano had been so enraptured by it, he had urged his entire staff to go see it. So it probably shouldn't have come as a surprise to me, when last week - a few days before it was to close - I visited the 'Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion' exhibition, only to bump into... John Galliano of course.

While I've sighted a fair share of designers and models before, there's always something wonderful about seeing them up close and far removed from the usual context of Fashion Week or some other random event. In this case, Galliano was impeccably dressed as usual and surrounded by only two of his colleagues/apprentices who were eagerly taking notes and admiring the different pieces along with their mentor who himself was noticeably taken by some of the more unique garments.

Galliano dressing down. I loved the jacket with the fur sleeves and the pin-striped trousers.

My favorite moment though, was when one of the staff who was visibly enamored by Galliano's style but had no idea who he was, went over, pointed to his braids and asked him if his hair was real or if he was sporting extensions (for those interested, he claimed the hair to be his own the last time he checked and that he wasn't a fan of the weave). Other than that, he spoke in hushed tones with his two consorts who ended up purchasing a few exhibition books among other things. Of course every designer is inspired by Rei, Yohji & Co., but it's nice to know that some really do take an active interest in learning more. Here's wondering how much of that will influence the next Dior or Galliano collection...

And I will be posting my summary on the actual exhibition in the near future, so stay tuned.

All Dolled Up: Frimousses de Créateurs 2010 (Paris, France)

Below: Overview of the exhibition space.

Unless you've been living under a rock, you might have noticed that designer collaborations are everywhere these days. After having just witnessed the latest H&M/Lanvin one, I had a first real-life (puzzled) look at the Valentino for GAP selection last week - and while ruffled khaki cargo pants really aren't my thing and never will be, who can blame yet another designer and high street retailer for joining forces? After all, they're just companies... and companies need to make money. Most of my friends refuse to buy into this whole marketing scheme, claiming it's a waste of money, yet others will happily unload a lot of hard-earned cash for such 'designer' gear. I still have mixed feelings about some of these collaborations, but one of the current joint-ventures does make perfect sense to me - and deserves to have a lot of money thrown at it...

'Frimousses de Créateurs' is a collaboration I already posted about last year. In an annual event and exhibition which began in 2003, big names in fashion, art and design (to name a few) each create a unique doll in partnership with UNICEF, which then gets auctioned off. All monies collected go towards financing vaccinations to aid children in Darfur. Donations in the past have allowed over 260,000 children in Africa to be vaccinated (annually) with last year's donations reaching a total of 285,300 EUR. Of course depending on which doll you want, you might not just need a big heart but an even bigger wallet. But even then, I'm sure those who have spent a bit of money on this, value the fact they've not only purchased a unique designer item (which is actually handmade), but also saved children's lives. This year's collaboration was dedicated to the world of cinema and included not only designers' interpretations of the silver screen, but also had a few stars themselves take a shot at creating a doll.

Marion Cotillard designed herself as a doll, while her partner, actor & director Guillaime Canet, was designed by Dior Homme (center). Other dolls pictured include legendary vintage expert Didier Ludot (left) and 'Baby Gaga' by Tilmann Grawe, the man responsible for many of Lady Gaga's stage outfits.

All dolls went on display last week at the Petit Palais and will be auctioned off tomorrow (Dec 7). A few select dolls can even be purchased online here. While dolls in general sometimes still creep me out, I did love looking at these little creations and wish I could take more than one home. This year, my favorites were Chanel's 'La Petite Coco' and Giorgio Armani's 'Marlène Dietrich'. Which one would you bid on, if you had the funds?

Big-name luxury and contemporary designers

'Tulip' by Dior (left). Louis Vuitton's doll (right) looks like a mini Christy Turlington.

'Sixtine' by Lanvin (left). 'La Petite Coco' by Chanel (right).

'Marlène Dietrich' by Giorgio Armani (left). 'Monica' by Dolce & Gabbana.

Stefano Pilati for Yves Saint Laurent (left). 'Skye' by Chloé (right).

'Elvia' by Gucci (left). Missoni (right).

'Sophie' by Prada (left). 'Barbara' by Miu Miu (right).

Double-sided doll 'Pralin et Praline' by Sonia Rykiel (left). 'Gilda' by Paule Ka (right).

Oscar de la Renta (left). 'Grace' by Elie Saab (right).

'Puccinella' by Pucci (left). 'Ava' by Loewe (right).

Carolina Herrera (left). 'Divina' by Narciso Rodriguez (right).

'Clara' by Emmanuel Ungaro (left). 'Daisy' by BCBG MAXAZRIA.

French Couture and Local Designers

Top row: 'Natsué' by Leonard, 'Yamima Benguigui' by Georges Chakra, Eliza Doolittle by Maison Lesage, 'Rebecca Dark' by Jerome L'Huillier.
Bottom row: 'Mono' by Torrente, 'Sarah' by Jean-Claude Jitrois, 'Clémentine' by Max Chaoul.

French contemporary designers and premium high street

Top row: 'Dolores' by Lolita Lempicka, Les Petites, Comptoir des Cotonniers, 'Liza' by Anne Fontaine.
Bottom row: Antik Batik,' Charlotte l'effrontée' by Petit Bateau, 'Forever Godard' by Agnes B.

Lingerie & Jewelry designers

Top row: 'Ella' by Princesse Tam Tam, 'Susan' by Fifi Chachnil, 'Vénus' by Vanina Vesperini.
Bottom row: 'Mademoiselle Poiray' by Poiray, 'Shirley' by Chantal Thomass, 'Super Ame' by Lorenz Baumer, 'C'est Toi La Star' by Mauboussin.

And the slightly wackier dolls...

Left: 'Popée' by Moritz Rogogsky, 'Mlle Blanche' by Moulin Rouge. Center: Skeleton made out of several dolls - Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, 'Tamara' by Petrossian. Right: 'Carrément chocolat' by macaron master Pierre Herme, Jay Ahr.

More of the over 80 dolls can also be viewed at the official Frimousses de Créateurs homepage.