The Kooples (Paris, France)

If you've visited Paris in the last few years - or London in more recent months - chances are you'll have seen quite a few boutiques belonging to The Kooples. And even if you missed them, you've probably seen the fairly prominent ad campaign featuring real life couples, posing in very chic clothes. The Kooples (a spin on how 'couples' is pronounced in French), is a bit of a phenomenon that started in Paris and is currently sweeping the UK. The label was founded by the Elisha brothers (Alexander, Laurent and Raphael), who are also responsible for the successful Comptoir des Cotonniers - a brand known for highlighting a different relationship: their ads feature real life mothers and daughters.

Real life couples posing for the FW10 campaign.

The current SS11 ad campaign.

The Kooples concept is based on the idea that people in relationships frequently borrow each other's clothes. And since it's usually the women who steal their boyfriends' shirts, blazers or accessories, it's not surprising that the majority of the collection is slightly more masculine and androgynous than girly. While I was initially told that the clothes were 'unisex', there are two distinct collections for men and women which are meant to complement each other. The line focuses on perfectly tailored clothes with a rock vibe. Most of the buttons, embroidery or jewelry feature the signature skull logo, which give classic blazers and military coats a bit of an edge.

Overview of a typical boutique (top). His & hers blazers featuring a skull emblem (bottom).

Items on display range from basic to feminine and lacy.

The first time I entered one of the Parisian boutiques, I was instantly addicted. I'll start off by mentioning that the prices aren't the lowest, but the quality and tailoring of the garments are superior to what you'll find in most high street stores. The monochromatic color scheme of the shops is identical in each location, and decor is kept to a minimum. The only notable elements are the campaign posters on the walls and a classic couch near the changing rooms. The staff is generally quite knowledgeable and if you end up in one of the new London flagships, you'll note that most of them are French as well.

The signature skull logo on a cardigan (left), and on bow ties & cuff links (right).

Some of the best pieces include blazers, such as the velvet version (left) or the light summer one (right).

It's worth mentioning that the accessories and shoes are just as coveted. Usually adorned with mini skulls, they're a good alternative if you're not in the market for another blazer. Delicate lace and silks are often used for dresses, skirts and shorts, and provide a more feminine style if you're worried about looking too much like your other half. This is probably the kind of label hipsters will flock to, but thankfully the selection is versatile enough to be combined with anything you might already have in your closet.

Another look for the gents (left).

Shorts, shorts and more shorts.

If you're in the UK and Ireland, the good news is that The Kooples are rapidly expanding, but I'm guessing that other countries will follow soon. In Paris, there are several boutiques in every arrondissement, so you'll be spoiled for choice. If you're in France or Great Britain though, you can always take advantage of the very tempting online store - filled with items that are very hard to resist.

Changing rooms (left) and a skull buckle belt (right).

More beautiful lace.

Address: various locations throughout France, UK & Ireland.
Opening Hrs: Mon: 11:00-19:00, Tue-Fri: 10:30-19:30, Sat: 10:30-20:00
The Kooples Homepage France / Great Britain

History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition: 1990-2010 (Paris, France)

As some may remember, a while ago I blogged about the first part of the History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition (aka 'Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine'), which covered the 70s and 80s. Hosted by the 'Musée des Arts Décoratifs', the showcase featured the more iconic styles of eras long forgotten by some. The second part of this installation, which was presented this Spring, might be a little closer to heart for most though, considering the pieces presented, stem from very recent history. Curated once again by Olivier Saillard, the journey through the 90s and 2000s took a look at key designers who revolutionized the fashion world and runway shows with their unique voice, whether it was the Japanese heavyweights Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo - or subsequently the Belgian designers who followed in their footsteps: Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester or Veronique Branquinho. Then there were the newcomers such as Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan, not to mention the designers who gave established fashion houses a breath of fresh air: Galliano for Dior, Ford for Gucci, Lagerfeld for Chanel, Elbaz for Lanvin and Ghesquière for Balenciaga.

The key look from the exhibition poster: Maison Martin Margiela blazer.

As with all exhibitions, it was impossible for the curator to feature every designer from recent history. So while some may question the lack of American talent (with the exception of Tom Ford) or omissions which included Jil Sander, who ruled 90s minimalism, - or fellow female creatives such as Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo to name a few - it was definitely still a very well laid-out and expansive presentation. At times it was a bit odd to see pieces, which had so recently graced the runway or appeared in boutique windows, displayed in a museum setting. But if anything, it's a nice reminder that even collections of the recent past, already deserve a place in fashion history.

Apologies if some of the images aren't of the best quality. The lighting wasn't ideal for photography.


Maison Martin Margiela

Veronique Branquinho

Ann Demeulemeester


Dries van Noten


Junya Watanabe / Issey Miyake


Comme des Garçons


Yohji Yamamoto


Azzedine Alaïa


Helmut Lang


Prada


Lanvin par Claude Montana


Hussein Chalayan


Alexander McQueen

A dress from SS04, which was almost impossible to capture.

Christian Dior par John Galliano

Click here to see the rest of the exhibit, which includes Vivienne Westwood, Chanel, Lanvin, Balenciaga and more.

Surface To Air (Paris, France)

Anyone who's spent a bit of time in Paris, keeps up with every 'it' fashion brand or is an avid follower of Garance Doré's blog, might already be very familiar with this label. I, like many, first stumbled upon it when I sighted the hugely popular buckle wedges one day and suddenly Surface To Air seemed to be everywhere: on Jessica Alba's feet, in some of the coolest fashion magazines and even as a collaboration with Kings of Leon (who designed a few menswear pieces for the label last year).

FW10 lookbook (images: Surface To Air).

SS11 lookbook (images: Surface To Air).

Style wise, Surface To Air (or S2A) can be described as a cross between Acne and Alexander Wang offering casual luxe pieces with an edge - and an eye for detail that goes beyond simple basics. Like Acne, Surface To Air isn't just a fashion label, but also consists of a creative direction/consultancy studio (clients include Louis Vuitton and Sony) as well as a film division that covers everything from music videos to TV commercials. Founded in 2000, the company started out as a group of friends who merely wanted to work on projects they liked - most of these involved fashion, photography, music, art or films. In a shop and gallery near the Louvre, they would exhibit and publish works from the likes of Banksy or Feist. These days though, the easiest way to appreciate their work is to take a leisurely browse in their Marais store, which is just one of two flagships in the world (the other can be found in Brazil).

Slouchy bags in the shop window (left) and a few floaty pieces on the first rack (right).

A quick look at the gallery area (left) along with some of the work exhibited (right).

Once you step into the boutique, it's a little hard to ignore the 'artsy' side of S2A. When I last visited, a small area near the entrance had been transformed into a gallery space, showcasing various graphic prints and an engraved axe to name a few. Chances are, you'll be more interested in the clothing and accessories. The brand is also hugely popular among the gents, so don't be surprised if you find more hip guys than girls perusing the collections. And because S2A has just recently launched a line for boys, I'll be expecting cool toddlers to be browsing the shop next.

Overview of the front part of the store (top), a few belts and the bead curtain of the changing room (bottom).

Wall art near the shoe section (left) and a first look at the tempting shoe area (right).

Oh, so many shoes! The iconic buckle wedges in various colors (left), and a few close-ups of the boots (right).

Yet it's still the ladies who get some of the best stuff, including beautiful cape coats, edgy leather dresses, flattering jeans and leopard-print cardigans. The store layout follows the gallery vision ingrained in S2A's philosophy. You'll never find more than a handful of clothes occupying a rack... and these can only be found along the walls, while the center is either reserved for benches, display tables or other decor. While the front area had many of the seasonal looks for women, most shoppers will undoubtedly end up gravitating towards the shoe section in the middle, where the famous buckle wedges (in various colors - this season's 'it' style features floral prints), boots and current season sandals are lined up neatly.

The second half of the store (top), where I found more lovely dresses and coats (bottom).

Clothes as wall art (left) and the illuminated pyramid.

Passing the snazzy changing room (adorned with the S2A logo), you'll find more in the back, including menswear and additional goodies for the ladies. Key looks were arranged along the wall, with garments showcased like works of art, while miniature TV screens underneath showed pictures from the lookbook or runway. Though the first part of the store might give a more rustic vibe with its wooden floors, the cool marble in this area definitely has more of a gallery feel. And the coolest prop? Probably the black pyramid in the center, which mirrors the company's logo, but most likely also pays homage to their first location near the Louvre.

The second part of the store as seen from the back (top). The modern shelves filled with cute kiddies' clothes (bottom).

Men's shoes in the middle of the room and yet more clothes on minimal racks (right).

If you like cool feminine looks (some draped and slouchy, others tight and fitted) or if you're a shoe fanatic, this is the ultimate place to be. Despite its popularity, the label's styles aren't as ubiquitous as even some of the more expensive designer brands. Pricing is in the mid-range and global stockists include Saks (in the US) and Browns (in the UK). But if you don't feel like fighting the models, fashion editors and creative types for that last boot wedge or drape cardigan, I suggest you head to their well-stocked online store instead.

A small selection of this season's shoes - and one really nice bag (images: Surface To Air).

Address: 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 11:30-19:30, Sun: 13:30-19:30
Surface To Air Homepage & Online-Shop

History Of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition - 70s/80s (Paris, France)

With the end of Paris Fashion Week looming, and everyone eager for all that is FW11, it's sometimes nice to take a step back... or almost literally step back in time. One of my favorite museums, the 'Musée des Arts Décoratifs', which had previously hosted terrific exhibitions dedicated to Madeleine Vionnet and Sonia Rykiel, recently decided to present a complete history of fashion spanning the four decades between 1970-2010. Titled 'Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine' ('an idealized history of contemporary fashion') curator Oliver Saillard, who has also published a book under the same name, decided to showcase long forgotten works by some of today's finest couturiers. Split in two parts, the first exhibition, which covers the 70s and 80s, ended last year, but if you're in Paris now, I strongly urge you to check out part two (90s and 00s) which will be featured on this blog soon.

The first looks at the entrance displayed early YSL and Jean-Paul Gaultier.

Though the 70s and 80s, don't necessarily trigger fond memories in the eyes of fashion critics, it was the more controversial works of Yves Saint Laurent (and his infamous 1971 collection) as well as Jean-Paul Gaultier's tattoo and cone-shaped bust pieces at the end of the 80s, that inspired Saillard to examine how modern couture sought to provoke and became ingrained with celebrity. Other highlights of the more low-key kind include Karl Lagerfeld's stint at Chloé and his first collections for Chanel, as well as the rising popularity of Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Kenzo and Issey Miyake. Couturiers that ruled the 80s, such as Thierry Mugler, Christian Lacroix and Azzedine Alaïa were represented as well.

Arranged on two levels (each decade presented on a different floor), the exhibition was very well laid out, while the actual pieces were stunning to behold. The pictures I took are only meant to provide you with a glimpse of my impressions but hardly reflect how incredible and timeless most of these gowns still look to this day. If you're not in Paris anytime soon or want to see more/better images and read the accompanying text, I recommend you pick up Saillard's book, which can be ordered here.

Don't forget to check out more pictures (which include Chanel and Gaultier) after the jump.

Madame Grès

The feminine draping of Madame Grès, a favorite of Grace Kelly (1978).

Sonia Rykiel / Cacharel

More for the ladies, including Rykiel's soft knits (1974-1977) and Cacharel's Liberty prints (FW 75/76).

Chloé par Karl Lagerfeld

Hard to believe these are the works of Kaiser Karl (early to mid 70s).

Issey Miyake / Jean-Charles de Castelbajac / Ter et Bantine / Kenzo

Top left: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (1974). Lower left: Ter et Bantine par Chantal Thomass (1972). Center: Issey Miyake (1974). Right: Kenzo (1971-1978).

Yves Saint Laurent

YSL's 70s art-inspired collection.

Claude Montana

Structured and leather pieces by Claude Montana (1978).

Thierry Mugler

Starting the 80s portion of the exhibition, the Mugler pieces were definitely the biggest draw and kept me coming back. Lady Gaga can prance around in Nicola Formichetti's creations all she wants, but nothing beats the 80s originals.

Beyond gorgeous, the ballerina dress dating back to 1986 decorated the stairwell, while the shiny 'angel' gowns (FW 84/85) had a group of schoolgirls (and me) literally glued to the glass cases. The winged gown on the left is the same one used for the exhibition's poster shot (top of the post).

Even the black dresses were eye-catchers, especially the one in the center adorned with headlights.

Jean-Charles de Castelbajac

The wonderful crazy world of Castelbajac including coats made of toy animals and dresses featuring giant prints (1983/84).

Popy Moreni

The most beautiful chiffon gowns...

Yohji Yamamoto / Issey Miyake / Comme des Garçons

Clean lines, structural shapes and colorful draping courtesy of Yamamoto (top left, bottom right, 1987/88), Rei Kawakubo (lower left, 1983-1989) and Miyake (center, top right, 1980).