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With the end of Paris Fashion Week looming, and everyone eager for all that is FW11, it's sometimes nice to take a step back... or almost literally step back in time. One of my favorite museums, the 'Musée des Arts Décoratifs', which had previously hosted terrific exhibitions dedicated to Madeleine Vionnet and Sonia Rykiel, recently decided to present a complete history of fashion spanning the four decades between 1970-2010. Titled 'Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine' ('an idealized history of contemporary fashion') curator Oliver Saillard, who has also published a book under the same name, decided to showcase long forgotten works by some of today's finest couturiers. Split in two parts, the first exhibition, which covers the 70s and 80s, ended last year, but if you're in Paris now, I strongly urge you to check out part two (90s and 00s) which will be featured on this blog soon.
The first looks at the entrance displayed early YSL and Jean-Paul Gaultier.Though the 70s and 80s, don't necessarily trigger fond memories in the eyes of fashion critics, it was the more controversial works of Yves Saint Laurent (and his infamous 1971 collection) as well as Jean-Paul Gaultier's tattoo and cone-shaped bust pieces at the end of the 80s, that inspired Saillard to examine how modern couture sought to provoke and became ingrained with celebrity. Other highlights of the more low-key kind include Karl Lagerfeld's stint at Chloé and his first collections for Chanel, as well as the rising popularity of Japanese designers Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo for Comme des Garçons, Kenzo and Issey Miyake. Couturiers that ruled the 80s, such as Thierry Mugler, Christian Lacroix and Azzedine Alaïa were represented as well.
Arranged on two levels (each decade presented on a different floor), the exhibition was very well laid out, while the actual pieces were stunning to behold. The pictures I took are only meant to provide you with a glimpse of my impressions but hardly reflect how incredible and timeless most of these gowns still look to this day. If you're not in Paris anytime soon or want to see more/better images and read the accompanying text, I recommend you pick up Saillard's book, which can be ordered here.
Arranged on two levels (each decade presented on a different floor), the exhibition was very well laid out, while the actual pieces were stunning to behold. The pictures I took are only meant to provide you with a glimpse of my impressions but hardly reflect how incredible and timeless most of these gowns still look to this day. If you're not in Paris anytime soon or want to see more/better images and read the accompanying text, I recommend you pick up Saillard's book, which can be ordered here.
Madame Grès
The feminine draping of Madame Grès, a favorite of Grace Kelly (1978).
More for the ladies, including Rykiel's soft knits (1974-1977) and Cacharel's Liberty prints (FW 75/76).
Hard to believe these are the works of Kaiser Karl (early to mid 70s).Issey Miyake / Jean-Charles de Castelbajac / Ter et Bantine / Kenzo
Top left: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac (1974). Lower left: Ter et Bantine par Chantal Thomass (1972). Center: Issey Miyake (1974). Right: Kenzo (1971-1978).Yves Saint Laurent
YSL's 70s art-inspired collection.Claude Montana
Structured and leather pieces by Claude Montana (1978).Thierry Mugler
Starting the 80s portion of the exhibition, the Mugler pieces were definitely the biggest draw and kept me coming back. Lady Gaga can prance around in Nicola Formichetti's creations all she wants, but nothing beats the 80s originals.
Beyond gorgeous, the ballerina dress dating back to 1986 decorated the stairwell, while the shiny 'angel' gowns (FW 84/85) had a group of schoolgirls (and me) literally glued to the glass cases. The winged gown on the left is the same one used for the exhibition's poster shot (top of the post).
Even the black dresses were eye-catchers, especially the one in the center adorned with headlights.Jean-Charles de Castelbajac
The wonderful crazy world of Castelbajac including coats made of toy animals and dresses featuring giant prints (1983/84).Popy Moreni
The most beautiful chiffon gowns...Yohji Yamamoto / Issey Miyake / Comme des Garçons
Clean lines, structural shapes and colorful draping courtesy of Yamamoto (top left, bottom right, 1987/88), Rei Kawakubo (lower left, 1983-1989) and Miyake (center, top right, 1980).
