The Kooples (Paris, France)

If you've visited Paris in the last few years - or London in more recent months - chances are you'll have seen quite a few boutiques belonging to The Kooples. And even if you missed them, you've probably seen the fairly prominent ad campaign featuring real life couples, posing in very chic clothes. The Kooples (a spin on how 'couples' is pronounced in French), is a bit of a phenomenon that started in Paris and is currently sweeping the UK. The label was founded by the Elisha brothers (Alexander, Laurent and Raphael), who are also responsible for the successful Comptoir des Cotonniers - a brand known for highlighting a different relationship: their ads feature real life mothers and daughters.

Real life couples posing for the FW10 campaign.

The current SS11 ad campaign.

The Kooples concept is based on the idea that people in relationships frequently borrow each other's clothes. And since it's usually the women who steal their boyfriends' shirts, blazers or accessories, it's not surprising that the majority of the collection is slightly more masculine and androgynous than girly. While I was initially told that the clothes were 'unisex', there are two distinct collections for men and women which are meant to complement each other. The line focuses on perfectly tailored clothes with a rock vibe. Most of the buttons, embroidery or jewelry feature the signature skull logo, which give classic blazers and military coats a bit of an edge.

Overview of a typical boutique (top). His & hers blazers featuring a skull emblem (bottom).

Items on display range from basic to feminine and lacy.

The first time I entered one of the Parisian boutiques, I was instantly addicted. I'll start off by mentioning that the prices aren't the lowest, but the quality and tailoring of the garments are superior to what you'll find in most high street stores. The monochromatic color scheme of the shops is identical in each location, and decor is kept to a minimum. The only notable elements are the campaign posters on the walls and a classic couch near the changing rooms. The staff is generally quite knowledgeable and if you end up in one of the new London flagships, you'll note that most of them are French as well.

The signature skull logo on a cardigan (left), and on bow ties & cuff links (right).

Some of the best pieces include blazers, such as the velvet version (left) or the light summer one (right).

It's worth mentioning that the accessories and shoes are just as coveted. Usually adorned with mini skulls, they're a good alternative if you're not in the market for another blazer. Delicate lace and silks are often used for dresses, skirts and shorts, and provide a more feminine style if you're worried about looking too much like your other half. This is probably the kind of label hipsters will flock to, but thankfully the selection is versatile enough to be combined with anything you might already have in your closet.

Another look for the gents (left).

Shorts, shorts and more shorts.

If you're in the UK and Ireland, the good news is that The Kooples are rapidly expanding, but I'm guessing that other countries will follow soon. In Paris, there are several boutiques in every arrondissement, so you'll be spoiled for choice. If you're in France or Great Britain though, you can always take advantage of the very tempting online store - filled with items that are very hard to resist.

Changing rooms (left) and a skull buckle belt (right).

More beautiful lace.

Address: various locations throughout France, UK & Ireland.
Opening Hrs: Mon: 11:00-19:00, Tue-Fri: 10:30-19:30, Sat: 10:30-20:00
The Kooples Homepage France / Great Britain

Yohji Yamamoto at the V&A - Exhibition (London, UK)

When Yohji Yamamoto mania first hit London a few months ago, I posted about two of the installations hosted by The Wapping Project (Yohji's Women and Yohji Making Waves), which you can read about here. The main event however was the actual Yohji Yamamoto exhibition at the V&A - and if you're a Londoner or a London tourist who hasn't seen it yet, I'd strongly urge you to go, as it closes this week. Like most exhibits I've visited at the V&A so far (including the Grace Kelly showcase), the main presentation was confined to a relatively small area in Room 38. On display were over 60 of Yamamoto's pieces along with a multimedia timeline, revealing the designer's wider creative output. Unlike most exhibitions however, the pieces weren't grouped chronologically, as Yamamoto often cited his works as being timeless rather than seasonal. While some mannequins were arranged in groups, these clusters acted as subtle pointers to a certain theme, such as layering or androgyny to name a few.

But the biggest difference about the exhibit is probably the fact that visitors were invited to walk among the designs and could freely touch or examine the garments, which weren't hidden behind glass panels or barriers. It made sense considering Yamamoto's love of textures, fabrics and volume - and it definitely added to the appreciation of his techniques.

A few Yohji pieces on display in the main exhibition space (left) and the multimedia timeline along the wall (right).

While Room 38 featured the bulk of the collection, the beauty of this exhibition was the addition of various satellite spaces, which showcased Yamamoto's work among V&A's permanent displays. In a way, this presentation almost proved to be more interesting given the surroundings and the way the clothing's textures and silhouettes mirrored the various tapestries, paintings or other works of art.

Though I did manage to snap a photo of every piece on display, I'll only post a selection here. The exhibition ends this Sunday, but if you don't get a chance to go, I'd highly recommend picking up this companion book.

Main Exhibition Space

Fine examples of pleating and other small details, such as button embroidery or exposed seams. Far left: Navy pleated skirt & integrated blue shirt, SS03. Far right: Black halter-neck with pleat detail SS05.

Long turquoise dress with open back and netting, FW96/97.

A few menswear looks - from left: Tartan shirt with integrated scarf-wrap, FW07/08; Coat with embroidered stars, FW06/07; Red dress coat, FW07/08 and Inside Out long jacket with embroidered back, FW09/10.

Left: Jacket, top and rotating polka dot skirt, FW07/08. Right: Checkered strapless top & skirt with crinoline, SS99.

From left: Deconstructed punk-inspired coat with zips, cropped top and cropped trousers, SS94; Long dress with top made of triangular patches gathered by metal chains, SS04; Cage corset, oversized jacket with kimono sleeves & long skirt, FW06/07.

From left: Pin-striped sleeveless suit jacket with unfinished seams, beaded date-jime kimono belt & blue yuzen-dyed skirt with floral print, SS02; Kimono-style draped dress with shibori-dyed detail, SS95; Asymmetric dress with yuzen-dyed multi-colored motifs, SS02.

Left: Yellow strapless silk dress & oversized coolie hat covered with draped silk, SS97. Right: White shirt-dress with long train & broderie anglaise ruffle detail at the back, SS07.

From left: Floral green, blue & orange velvet suit, black shirt with integrated bow, FW03/04; Multi-color printed suit, SS11; Floral pattern suit with metal flower brooches, FW98/99; Green coat with knitted front panel & 3/4-length trousers with purple piping, FW07/08.

From top left: Dress with structured cubic top & arm details, FW90/91; Asymmetric felt dress with crinoline, FW90/91; Sleeveless pleated dress in homage to Madame Grès, SS05; Boiled wool jacket with gathered front & long skirt, FW09/10; Tartan fringed jacket & hound's tooth check fringed skirt, FW03/04; Long-sleeved jumper & knitted skirt, FW98/99.

From left: Long asymmetric shirt-dress, SS05; Long zipped dress with open back & embroidered pattern cutting details, SS00; Satin suit with suspenders, SS99.

Left center: Ruffled cape & dress with crinoline in homage to Cristóbal Balenciaga, SS99. In the background: Tweed jacket & skirt with gathered waist, SS08/09; Hound's tooth check jacket with puffed lower sleeves & long skirt in homage to Dior. Right: Wool jumper over gray layered dress with exaggerated hip crinoline & toque hat, SS99.

Satellite Spaces

In the Hinze Sculpture Gallery: Jacket with quilting, FW09/10; Jacket with white embroidery, SS09; Suit jacket with lace back, SS09. Lower right: Overview of the space with all three jackets.

In the Norfolk House Music Room: Dress with open back & black skirt & dress with high collar, both FW96/97.

In the Paintings Gallery: Long sleeveless dress in homage to Pina Bausch, SS92.

In the Tapestry Gallery: Two long red coats with netting, long black gathered dresses with front pockets & black mesh tops; Black buttoned coat with netting. All from FW95/96.

In the British Galleries Landing: A selection of white shirts, dark suits & black dresses/skirts, all impeccably tailored for the woman, yet androgynous in shape (ranging from SS98 - SS05).

In the Ceramics Gallery: Coat, scarf & jumper with manga characters and trousers, FW07/08; Utility jacket & trousers, FW03/04; Screen-printed shirt & blue denim with white painted stripe, SS02.

Andersen & Lauth (Reykjavik, Iceland)

As mentioned in a previous post, Reykjavik surprised me with its huge selection of indie and local designers who's boutiques were mostly situated on the main shopping artery of Laugavegur. And the most wonderful thing about Icelandic fashion was the variety: from bold and colorful, to quirky and fun, to dark and gothic - you'll find anything to suit your taste. Andersen & Lauth was one of the few labels that had a more traditional approach and a long heritage that stemmed from its history as the first tailoring house in Reykjavik, opened in 1908 by Ludvig Andersen. Over a 100 years later the revamped label (established in 1934) is still going strong, producing beautiful vintage inspired, romantic clothing in the best quality.

From the SS11 (top) and FW11(bottom) lookbooks (images: Andersen & Lauth)

Before I even had the chance to view the clothing up close, I instantly fell in love with the decor of the store, which already gives a strong indication of the collections you'll find there. Even though the boutique was very spacious, with racks only situated against the wall, the interiors felt warm and inviting. The details seemed to have been chosen with great care: large rustic tables, an antique looking sofa, beautiful cabinets and of course the most eye-catching element of all: the fake fireplace with the stag head above it. The garments are made with even more care. Most pieces are handmade and designed in the style and spirit of production methods of the 19th century. While Andersen & Lauth favors the Victorian era, the collections span a variety of periods, with the women's range generally featuring feminine draping, elfin silhouettes and elaborate materials. The menswear has a romantic dandy feel to it, while also incorporating the vibe of Reykjavik's eclectic music scene.

Loved these tree trunks in the window display.

Overview of the store from the entrance.

According to the company manifesto, Andersen & Lauth is a romantic journey through time with a strong belief that all women deserve beautiful things made with love and passion. Browsing through the pieces, this sentiment was evident and I was quite taken with the superior quality and the intricate details. There are basics of course, that include simpler cotton dresses, tailored trousers and fine knits. Among these, you'll also find items from the capsule 'Atelier' collection which is entirely handmade in Andersen & Lauth workshops and utilizes ancient techniques of embroidery or stitching. The official blog provides fascinating insights into the production process. The pieces reflect the company's love for old-fashioned workmanship and in some cases feature more traditional materials, such as vintage lace. But if you fear the clothing my look dated, no worries. The shapes and cuts are modern, timeless and won't leave you looking like your granny.

The boutique as seen from the back. The large wooden table featured basics and smaller items. Pastel shades dominated the racks.

The large wardrobe/cabinet was filled with knickknacks and accessories.

Beautifully embellished and embroidered pieces made by hand, from the 'Atelier' collection.

Most of the looks I sighted were from the SS11 collection, titled 'Poetic Couture', which mirrors the Andersen & Lauth aesthetic perfectly. I'm not really a 'romantic' type when it comes to style, but found myself falling for the pastel colored dresses and the delicate cardigans. The FW11 collection is slightly more up my alley with its chunky knits and dark sequined gowns inspired by the 20s flapper style.

Yes, I could live here. The gorgeous fireplace area (left) and the very spacious changing rooms (right image: Andersen & Lauth).

Select items were hung from walls like works of art (left) and more traditional artwork featuring old images of the shop/atelier and inspiration shots (right).

So many pretty clothes... with more embroidery and lace.

If you happen to be shopping with a guy, definitely head to the menswear store next door, which is filled with very cool suits, coats and jackets - all impeccably tailored of course.

A quick look at the menswear boutique next door (images: Andersen & Lauth).

The pricing is surprisingly decent, considering the handmade quality of the items. If you want a bargain, there's a 'vintage' store down the street which sells past-season collections for a fraction of the price. Yoox also stocks previous collections for a steal. Supposedly Andersen & Lauth is available in over 30 countries, though I couldn't find too many details on their official website, so keep your eyes peeled. Alexa Chung (who's snapped up a few nude colored dresses) and other celebs are already huge fans, so I'm sure the label will be popping up everywhere in the very near future. And if you're ever in Reykjavik, the boutiques are the best place to escape the cold and indulge in a bit of cozy warm retail therapy.

Cool stuff from the FW11 menswear range (images: Andersen & Lauth).

A home decor range is available as well, featuring mainly embroidered cushions and other smaller items (images: Andersen & Lauth).

Address: Laugavegur 7, 101 Reykjavik
Andersen & Lauth Homepage

Surface To Air (Paris, France)

Anyone who's spent a bit of time in Paris, keeps up with every 'it' fashion brand or is an avid follower of Garance Doré's blog, might already be very familiar with this label. I, like many, first stumbled upon it when I sighted the hugely popular buckle wedges one day and suddenly Surface To Air seemed to be everywhere: on Jessica Alba's feet, in some of the coolest fashion magazines and even as a collaboration with Kings of Leon (who designed a few menswear pieces for the label last year).

FW10 lookbook (images: Surface To Air).

SS11 lookbook (images: Surface To Air).

Style wise, Surface To Air (or S2A) can be described as a cross between Acne and Alexander Wang offering casual luxe pieces with an edge - and an eye for detail that goes beyond simple basics. Like Acne, Surface To Air isn't just a fashion label, but also consists of a creative direction/consultancy studio (clients include Louis Vuitton and Sony) as well as a film division that covers everything from music videos to TV commercials. Founded in 2000, the company started out as a group of friends who merely wanted to work on projects they liked - most of these involved fashion, photography, music, art or films. In a shop and gallery near the Louvre, they would exhibit and publish works from the likes of Banksy or Feist. These days though, the easiest way to appreciate their work is to take a leisurely browse in their Marais store, which is just one of two flagships in the world (the other can be found in Brazil).

Slouchy bags in the shop window (left) and a few floaty pieces on the first rack (right).

A quick look at the gallery area (left) along with some of the work exhibited (right).

Once you step into the boutique, it's a little hard to ignore the 'artsy' side of S2A. When I last visited, a small area near the entrance had been transformed into a gallery space, showcasing various graphic prints and an engraved axe to name a few. Chances are, you'll be more interested in the clothing and accessories. The brand is also hugely popular among the gents, so don't be surprised if you find more hip guys than girls perusing the collections. And because S2A has just recently launched a line for boys, I'll be expecting cool toddlers to be browsing the shop next.

Overview of the front part of the store (top), a few belts and the bead curtain of the changing room (bottom).

Wall art near the shoe section (left) and a first look at the tempting shoe area (right).

Oh, so many shoes! The iconic buckle wedges in various colors (left), and a few close-ups of the boots (right).

Yet it's still the ladies who get some of the best stuff, including beautiful cape coats, edgy leather dresses, flattering jeans and leopard-print cardigans. The store layout follows the gallery vision ingrained in S2A's philosophy. You'll never find more than a handful of clothes occupying a rack... and these can only be found along the walls, while the center is either reserved for benches, display tables or other decor. While the front area had many of the seasonal looks for women, most shoppers will undoubtedly end up gravitating towards the shoe section in the middle, where the famous buckle wedges (in various colors - this season's 'it' style features floral prints), boots and current season sandals are lined up neatly.

The second half of the store (top), where I found more lovely dresses and coats (bottom).

Clothes as wall art (left) and the illuminated pyramid.

Passing the snazzy changing room (adorned with the S2A logo), you'll find more in the back, including menswear and additional goodies for the ladies. Key looks were arranged along the wall, with garments showcased like works of art, while miniature TV screens underneath showed pictures from the lookbook or runway. Though the first part of the store might give a more rustic vibe with its wooden floors, the cool marble in this area definitely has more of a gallery feel. And the coolest prop? Probably the black pyramid in the center, which mirrors the company's logo, but most likely also pays homage to their first location near the Louvre.

The second part of the store as seen from the back (top). The modern shelves filled with cute kiddies' clothes (bottom).

Men's shoes in the middle of the room and yet more clothes on minimal racks (right).

If you like cool feminine looks (some draped and slouchy, others tight and fitted) or if you're a shoe fanatic, this is the ultimate place to be. Despite its popularity, the label's styles aren't as ubiquitous as even some of the more expensive designer brands. Pricing is in the mid-range and global stockists include Saks (in the US) and Browns (in the UK). But if you don't feel like fighting the models, fashion editors and creative types for that last boot wedge or drape cardigan, I suggest you head to their well-stocked online store instead.

A small selection of this season's shoes - and one really nice bag (images: Surface To Air).

Address: 108 rue Vieille du Temple, 75003 Paris
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 11:30-19:30, Sun: 13:30-19:30
Surface To Air Homepage & Online-Shop