Showing posts with label Ann Demeulemeester. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Ann Demeulemeester. Show all posts

History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition: 1990-2010 (Paris, France)



As some may remember, a while ago I blogged about the first part of the History of Contemporary Fashion Exhibition (aka 'Histoire idéale de la mode contemporaine'), which covered the 70s and 80s. Hosted by the 'Musée des Arts Décoratifs', the showcase featured the more iconic styles of eras long forgotten by some. The second part of this installation, which was presented this Spring, might be a little closer to heart for most though, considering the pieces presented, stem from very recent history. Curated once again by Olivier Saillard, the journey through the 90s and 2000s took a look at key designers who revolutionized the fashion world and runway shows with their unique voice, whether it was the Japanese heavyweights Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo - or subsequently the Belgian designers who followed in their footsteps: Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester or Veronique Branquinho. Then there were the newcomers such as Alexander McQueen or Hussein Chalayan, not to mention the designers who gave established fashion houses a breath of fresh air: Galliano for Dior, Ford for Gucci, Lagerfeld for Chanel, Elbaz for Lanvin and Ghesquière for Balenciaga.

The key look from the exhibition poster: Maison Martin Margiela blazer.

As with all exhibitions, it was impossible for the curator to feature every designer from recent history. So while some may question the lack of American talent (with the exception of Tom Ford) or omissions which included Jil Sander, who ruled 90s minimalism, - or fellow female creatives such as Stella McCartney and Phoebe Philo to name a few - it was definitely still a very well laid-out and expansive presentation. At times it was a bit odd to see pieces, which had so recently graced the runway or appeared in boutique windows, displayed in a museum setting. But if anything, it's a nice reminder that even collections of the recent past, already deserve a place in fashion history.

Apologies if some of the images aren't of the best quality. The lighting wasn't ideal for photography.


Maison Martin Margiela


Veronique Branquinho


Ann Demeulemeester


Dries van Noten


Junya Watanabe / Issey Miyake


Comme des Garçons


Yohji Yamamoto


Azzedine Alaïa


Helmut Lang


Prada


Lanvin par Claude Montana


Hussein Chalayan


Alexander McQueen

A dress from SS04, which was almost impossible to capture.

Christian Dior par John Galliano



Click here to see the rest of the exhibit, which includes Vivienne Westwood, Chanel, Lanvin, Balenciaga and more.

Alice in Wonderland @ Printemps (Paris, France)


If, like me, you've been looking forward to one of the most highly anticipated movies of the year, you'll most likely have already drooled over the various editorials, movie set photos and anything else remotely related to Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland. When I heard that French department store Printemps had collaborated with a few of the biggest fashion designers, allowing them to decorate a window, create outfits and interpret their version of Alice as they saw fit, I knew we were in for a treat. I saw sketches of the windows a while ago, but thought it would be better to share the real thing. These windows went up this week and will be on display until March 14.

(All quotes were taken from style.com and as usual, images can be enlarged by clicking on them.)

Bernard Willhelm

bernard willhelm alice in wonderland printempsbernard willhelm alice in wonderland printempsThe first window on the street. Gotta love those socks...

Christopher Kane / Nicholas Kirkwood

“I think my favorite Alice character is the March Hare. You can see I’ve made his watch rather prominent. This was a different design process for me, because I’m not usually so applicative—typically, I’m thinking about line, silhouette. But this time, I figured, why not just pile as much as I can on top?” —Nicholas Kirkwood

nicholas kirkwood christopher kane alice in wonderland printempsnicholas kirkwood alice in wonderland printempsThe shoes that stole the show... note the small watch on the left foot (top image; style.com).

I will say that the Kirkwoods were as spectacular as I though they'd be, although a little tricky to photograph. These shoes were made on commission for Printemps and were not available for sale. Since the store window version is the only pair in the world, I was determined to catch every detail... which resulted in me smacking my forehead against the glass several times as I crouched on the street floor. Very elegant (and sadly not the first time this has happened).

Ann Demeulemeester

“I’ve always been intrigued by cutout silhouettes. They are so intriguing, so poetic—the shadow of a soul. They tell everything about a character and they are open to be filled with one’s own imagination.” —Ann Demeulemeester

ann demeulemeester  alice in wonderland printempsann demeulemeester  alice in wonderland printempsOne of my favorite designs... the thigh-high boots were very cool, as were the cutouts on the dress. The figures represent both Alice and the Mad Hatter.

Charles Anastase

“I went to John Tenniel’s original illustration of Alice for inspiration. She’s seated at a table having tea, and her dress looks much more asymmetrical and theatrical than that boring Walt Disney version. It was also an auto-reference to my collections, as Lewis Carroll’s work has been one of the main inspirations of my label since its creation. Alice Liddell, the real little girl with long dark hair who inspired Carroll, is one of the very few icons that I have. The pictures of her are a constant inspiration for me.” —Charles Anastase

charles anastase  alice in wonderland printempscharles anastase  alice in wonderland printempsAnother beautiful piece. The giant bottle reads 'Buvez moi - Drink me'.

Chloé

“Running around careless and free in a romantic dress, falling down the rabbit hole, chasing time in a dreamlike state of mind, meeting unexpected characters with many tales to tell—sounds like many a girl’s night out!” —Chloé design team

chloe  alice in wonderland printempschloe  alice in wonderland printempsThe cute pleated dress was probably the most wearable creation. Macarons on the left made to look like pebbles courtesy of Ladurée.

Alexander McQueen

alexander mcqueen  alice in wonderland printempsalexander mcqueen  alice in wonderland printempsI love McQueen and even though this isn't a dress I would wear, I couldn't take my eyes off the ruffle detailing on the trumpet sleeves.

Manish Arora

manish arora  alice in wonderland printempsmanish arora  alice in wonderland printempsOne of the funkier pieces, the playing cards were made of the same foam material as the dress and featured small crystals which don't come across in the photos.

Maison Martin Margiela

“Alice’s silhouette is a blue upside-down dress with cage sleeve, as if she walked through the mirror and her dress completely reversed. A long ball gown has been reworked, upside-down, into a minidress. The bustier in taffetas becomes a pleated miniskirt. The petticoat in plonge becomes an asymmetrical draped top. The skirt in ‘plumetis’ tulle becomes a veil. A cage sleeve of whale-boned velvet ribbon is embroidered with pearls, crystals, and recycled jewels.” —Maison Martin Margiela

martin margiela  alice in wonderland printempsmartin margiela  alice in wonderland printempsMargiela's Alice & the Mad Hatter. Another favorite of mine. I thought the concept behind the upside down dress was brilliant. It also prompted me to tilt my head upside down standing in front of the window. Again... not very elegant.

Haider Ackermann

“My favorite character is the Duchess, who at first seems nearly as unpleasant as the Queen of Hearts. But she’s the antagonist of the queen, and at the end was only respectful and friendly, despite her tremendous ugliness. When I was designing this piece, I was seeing Alice running, escaping through the forest destroying her shiny dress.” —Haider Ackermann

haider ackermann  alice in wonderland printempshaider ackermann  alice in wonderland printempsThe giant bunny, made out of fake roses almost stole the limelight...

In addition to the window displays, Printemps had the Alice theme going on in-store as well. Smaller versions of the plastic mushrooms could be found next to mannequins on the 2nd floor, but another collaborator stole the show: Ladurée, didn't just provide the yummy macarons in the Chloé window... they also hosted their own Alice in Wonderland tea party in the basement of the store. Shoppers could indulge in sweet delicacies while sipping hot tea and marvel at the four floor-to-ceiling shelves that were crammed with books, macarons, bags and other bits and pieces. The tea room itself featured a mix of chess board and grass floors, surrounded by fake greenery sculpted into animals.

 alice in wonderland printempsThe giant 'Mad Hatter' shelves, spanning several storeys were crammed with goodies and featured images from the upcoming movie (left). Another oversized tea pot could be found dangling from the ceiling (right).

 alice in wonderland printempsThe 'Alice' shelves.

 alice in wonderland printempsSome of the tempting desserts (left), books and figurines on display (right).

 alice in wonderland printempsCare to join the tea party? The tea room in the basement viewed from the top (left) and ground (top right). The very dangerous dessert counter (right).

Impressions of Hong Kong


Thank you everyone for the well wishes. I'm doing a bit better and have stopped feeling sorry for myself (a little). So without further delay, here the impressions of Hong Kong from a few weeks ago. One of the reasons I procrastinated doing this post was because I was born and raised there, which makes picking suitable photos that portray such a diverse city a little tricky. Another reason is that even though I know the place very well... I don't actually. It's been over 10 years since I moved away and despite visiting at least once a year, HK changes so quickly that within 12 months, 20 new buildings would have popped up, half the stores I know would have moved or shut down and new restaurants would have taken over hot spots I didn't know existed. (Note: all images can be enlarged by clicking on them).

hong kong skylineThe Hong Kong skyline (and Kowloon across the harbor) as seen from The Peak. Most of the high rises are actually residential.

It's fast paced, modern, busy, crowded, overpopulated and has happily embraced a Western look. But at the same time it also remains traditionally Chinese - a cultural diversity stemming from its history as a former British colony that has since gone back to China. It is essentially still an island... or a cluster of 236 islands to be precise, which means that beyond the expansive skyline, you'll find beaches, country parks, nature reserves and reservoir lakes. What does break my heart though is the rising pollution (a result of fumes from factories in China) most evident by the smog that blankets the skyline on most days, and the reclamation of land from the harbor to make way for new building sites.

hong kong skylineHong Kong Island's hazy skyline as seen from Kowloon.

hong kong centralA few of the landmark skyscrapers, incl. Bank of China (top left), Lippo Centre (lower left), HSBC (lower middle), the IFC (lower right) and residential high rises of the Mid Levels as seen from Hong Kong Park (top right).

hong kong harborLand being reclaimed from the harbor. The construction site used to be all water... the shore of the harbor used to stretch right up to the buildings.

hong kong centralView of downtown Central - Hong Kong's business district and home to plenty of shops of course.

hong kong colonialA few remaining colonial style building, though the tea museum (left) is a replica. Right: the Court of Final Appeal.

hong kong harbor star ferryThe cheapest and easiest way to cross the harbor is to take the iconic Star Ferry (top). Occasionally you'll see a lone junk or dinghy in the waters as well.

hong kong repulse bay beachOne of Hong Kong's many beaches. Here: Repulse Bay. And yes, I realize that name doesn't sound enticing, but the beach is pretty.

hong kong templeA Chinese temple near the beach.

hong kong cheung chauCheung Chau Island, a former fishing village and still renowned for its great seafood can be reached easily from Hong Kong via a ferry. Here a few of the fishing boats along the pier.

hong kong cheung chauThe rugged shore of Cheung Chau and some of its hiking trails.

hong kong causeway bayYou are never alone.... bustling crowds and a mix of old and new buildings in Causeway Bay's shopping area.

hong kong foodNo visit would be complete without eating Dim Sum (the dish on the lower left is rice & chicken in a lotus leaf).

Aside from being a financial hub, many people associate Hong Kong with being a great place to shop. It is... and it isn't. The city's shopping scene is slightly bizarre to those who've never been to big Asian cities (or Dubai). Very much a mall culture where real estate is precious, few shops or even department stores can afford to be housed on street level, making multi-storey shopping centers a common sight. Big name luxury brands are the most prominent, with excessive branding visible wherever you go. Despite the fact that locals were once obsessed with anything adorned with a big Chanel or Dior logo, they have since embraced less glitzy labels, whether it's A.P.C., Comme des Garçons or Tsumori Chisato.

hong kong landmarkForget The Gap and food courts... shopping center 'The Landmark' is filled with every designer boutique imaginable, whether it's Balenciaga, Stella McCartney or TOD's (above left). It even houses a Harvey Nichols (lower left) and a Michelin-star restaurant courtesy of Joel Robuchun, if you do get hungry.

Unfortunately none of the Western and Japanese brands are cheap here, with items retailing for up to double the price of what they are in Europe or the U.S. Even though sales were on, discounted items were more expensive there than their full-priced counterparts in Paris. One explanation is the money flowing in from visiting mainland Chinese who can't get such products in their own country and happily pay any price requested for the coveted designer brands. Even the more obscure designers such as Margiela, Isabel Marant or Ann Demeulemeester have standalone flagships in Hong Kong... which might seem strange considering the latter two don't even have boutiques in London or NYC. Needless to say, the big brands are still available in abundance: there are at least a dozen Burberry stores in HK... London has four; Prada has 10 boutiques on the island... Milan only five. Even my beloved Lanvin is represented three times, whereas Paris only has the one flagship. Crazy? Perhaps. But they're all well frequented.

hong kong luxury brandsThis is only a fraction of the branding visible throughout the city. These are not adverts... they are actual storefronts, with large logos emblazoned on mulit-storey buildings. The Chanel one is particularly blatant, as the logo appears on a bright LCD screen.

Nonetheless, local and indie brands are there if you look close enough (or keep reading this blog). Smaller shops are scattered around Central's Soho area, Causeway Bay or the busy streets throughout Kowloon... and for something cheaper, you can always head to one of the bustling markets.

hong kong skylineAnother shot of Hong Kong from above. Slightly different from the image at the very top, this one also shows the stretch of harbor towards Wanchai and Causeway Bay.