Gareth Pugh (Hong Kong)

The one thing any visitor will quickly notice about Hong Kong is the abundance of prominent designer flagships all around town, especially those of the flashy logo variety which attract mostly mainland Chinese tourists with plenty of cash to spend. And while Hong Kong locals used to love these brands as well, more and more hip or discerning shoppers are opting for labels without the LV or Gucci stamp. The company that came to their rescue years ago was I.T., a retail giant that not only hosts high-street chains and its own multi-label boutiques stocking all the more contemporary designer gear, but also negotiated exclusive rights to open flagships for some of the most popular labels. This explains why thanks to I.T., Hong Kong is lucky enough to have three Isabel Marant boutiques or several Tsumori Chisato outlets to name a few.

Looks from the FW10 collection (images: Style.com).

But the biggest coup are the row of stores along Central's Ice House Street. A fashionista's dream come true, you'll find the Ann Demeulemeester, Maison Martin Margiela and Comme des Garçons flagships side by side - and the newest addition: Gareth Pugh's first and only standalone boutique in the world. While Hong Kong may seem an unlikely choice for a debut and a store wasn't at the top of Pugh's priority list, I.T. made the designer an offer he just couldn't refuse. The result: a futuristic 658 square-foot venue with a decor that mirrors his designs perfectly, courtesy of the London studio Daytrip. The storefront lacks a traditional window display and instead offers pedestrians a view of the giant LED screen featuring short film snippets of his work. The rest of the store is both dark and illuminated, matte and glossy: black rubber cases and racks, black tiled floors/ceilings and ash gray walls give the retail space a distinct gothic vibe.

Overview of the boutique (top image: Daytrip) and racks of clothes (bottom).

Even the store facade features black rubber paint (imported from the UK of course). According to Pugh (via WWD) "Because it was my first store, I knew I had to do something that was very me. I went back to my runway shows and thought, 'what could be more me than a black box?'" The LED display, which from afar looks like any regular TV screen, is the biggest attraction though. Inspired by his friends Ruth Hogben (who's films run on a loop on screen) and Nick Knight, he hopes to one day connect the display to his studio via the Internet, so that even beyond opening hours, viewers are connected to his work.

More of the store, incl. the geometric shapes which can be found on cardigans (top right) and display cases.

A closer look at the LED display (left) and the individual LED lights that create the moving images (right).

While the store, in all its blackness, may seem a bit intimidating, it's actually not. Once you get past the entrance, you'll realize that the compact size makes the area almost cozy... well, as cozy as a black box can get. Better yet, the one very friendly SA working there was helpful but also doing his own thing so you were left to browse at your own leisure (in my experience, HK SAs are notorious for stalking customers around stores). I loved the fact that some of Pugh's signature geometric shapes could be found on the brightly lit display cases. Clothing was neatly arranged and it was great to see so much of his collection in one place. Even in the UK, it's difficult to find more than a few of his pieces in select stores, and I quickly noticed that much of what was featured in-store was not from the runway and a lot more wearable.

View of the adjoining second room (top image: Daytrip). Seating area and a shearling leather jacket (bottom).

The entrance area as seen from the back (left), a padded jacket and loose knits (right).

The second room with an elaborate dress on display (left). A very heavy safety pin scarf (top) and other accessories (bottom).

Famous for his futuristic, almost sci-fi looks, Pugh has toned it down a little in recent seasons, but a lot of what you see is still a little 'out there'. For every cool structured leather jacket I found, there was another padded wool coat that only Lady Gaga could pull off. Yet beyond the avant-garde, there were knits, separates and evening dresses that looked both luxurious and edgy. And of course there's always the accessories, such as the great suede/leather wedge boots I sighted or the safety pin scarf.

The padded changing room.

More of the store (right), a structured leather jacket and leather/suede ankle wedge boots (left).

If you do decide to try something on, the padded changing room provides a nice contrast to the rest of the store: silver gray and surrounded by mirrors. The lack of excessive furniture or decor makes the boutique seem larger and the second section, where the changing room and a small seating area can be found, houses even more looks which are slightly more elaborate than the knits and jackets in the main hall. A fun browse if you like Pugh's work or favor more avant-garde fashion, but I'd probably go just for the terrific LED display alone. And definitely a welcome change from the typical big designer brands that populate Hong Kong - a relief from logo-mania if you will.

Looks from the SS11 collection (images: Style.com).

Address: 10 Ice House Street, Central, Hong Kong
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sun: 11:00-20:00
Gareth Pugh Homepage

Initial (Hong Kong)

Most Hong Kong high street labels usually have the same characteristics: they'll be heavily inspired by Japanese fashion or they'll aim for a more Western vibe, especially regarding the interiors which will have a vintage touch. Initial is unique in the sense that it combines the two and goes beyond just clothing and accessories, with a concept that builds around the idea of a 'lifestyle brand'. As such, depending on where in Hong Kong you happen to be, you may stumble across an Initial boutique that includes a hair salon or a cafe. But even if like me, you end up in the Central district and come across a store without the added services, you're still in for a treat.

A selection from the FW10 lookbook (images: Initial)

For starters, when I visited Initial near Central's hip Lan Kwai Fong area last month, the boutique was hosting a mini-exhibition of sorts, that featured work from French artists Anne-Valrie Dupond and Rebecca Campeau who use regular materials (such as cardboard or textiles) to create statues and busts of real life and fictional characters. This display may have seemed out of place in any other setting, but in the middle of Initial's shabby chic interiors, the puppets almost looked like they were part of the decor. Then again, the first thing that caught my attention when I approached the open plan entrance of the store wasn't the statues, but the charming retro bikes placed outside, along with an antique wooden door and an assortment of dried flowers by the Japanese company 'Display Museum'.

Some of the items found outside the store entrance: retro bikes, an old door, dried flowers and a very lovely fur coat/vest.

The somewhat creepy Fabric Puppet Exhibition.

It's easy to ignore the clothing in this store as almost half the retail space seems to be dedicated to home decor items and other trinkets, which fill the left part of the shop area making it resemble a flea market or a very charming antique store. Of course nothing you find here is actually vintage - items are sourced from independent or artesanal suppliers from Japan, France or the UK to name a few. And when I did manage to tear my eyes away from the statues and knickknacks, I finally got around to appreciating the clothes as well. Though Initial claims most of its clothing to be Japanese inspired, the fashion here spans various styles ranging from girly and bohemian to edgy and grungy. While some of the slouchier knitwear or maxi dresses have a distinct vintage feel, other outfits, such as the blazers from the premium range, are a lot preppier, while the 'Initialing' range offers a selection of smart suits, skirts, blouses and other workwear.

Overview of the store which featured a large 'lifestyle' area (left) and the clothing section (right).

Some of the cool basics surrounded by vintage inspired decor, such as the jewelry cabinet (lower right).

But as is often the case, accessories end up being the biggest distraction, with entire cabinets full of jewelry or shelves filled with cool leather boots and bags that steal the show. The pricing is decent enough, especially during the time I went as sales were still on. Even without, you'll get a good deal though I'm not certain how durable the items are, as some of the clothing's materials are comparable to those of other lower end retail labels. Boots and bags however did seem to be of a better quality than what equivalent brands offer.

The very dangerous shoe corner which featured temptations such as the hairy boots or the shearling booties.

Some of the trinkets in the decor area, including old postcards (lower left), candles (top left) and an antique sewing machine.

Lastly, I gave myself enough time to look through the tempting selection of furnishings and decor items, which ranged from scented candles and perfumes, to funky porcelain cups, vases and even a selection of old postcards.

Overview of the 'lifestyle' area with an impressive selection of goods, such as the horse statue and crystal bottles.

Cute porcelain pieces I found: decorated tea sets and a jar in the shape of a mansion (left).

Definitely a fun browse if you're bored with the endless similar looking chain stores or luxury flagships you see around Hong Kong and what's even better: this one actually has its own store front and isn't part of a mall, as is the case with so many other outlets around the city. Initial has over a dozen boutiques throughout Hong Kong and there are more to come, so check one of them out if you're ever in the area.

A more classic collection courtesy of 'Initaling' the workwear line (images: Initial).

More cool stuff from Initial's 'lifestyle' range (images: Initial).

Address: 17-19 D'Aguilar Street, Central, Hong Kong
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sun: 11:30-20:00
Initial Homepage

Impressions of Hong Kong - December 2010

I'd like to start off this post by wishing all my readers a very happy new year! I'm back in Europe and didn't quite manage to update more frequently as promised, but I'll be catching up on that now. Those who were already reading this blog a year ago, may remember when I first posted my impressions of Hong Kong. I didn't take quite as many photos last week and also didn't do as much shopping, nevertheless I'll still be sharing a few gems with you...

View of Central taken from the Hong Kong Park.

The main Christmas tree made of Swarovski Crystals, illuminated at night.

Shoppers in Causeway Bay.

The Happy Valley racecourse.

Mall Culture 1: Mrs. and Mr. Santa Claus at the Landmark shopping center. The figures are made of Christmas baubles.

Bank of China at night.

Times Square shopping center and surrounding area.

The Central district.

The Star Ferry terminal and the Hong Kong harbor.

Mall Culture 2: Christmas installation at Times Square.

Residential Hong Kong.

International Finance Center.

Traditional Chinese herbal/remedy shops.

Container yards on the way to the airport.

Comme des Garçons (Hong Kong)

Hong Kong people aren't just fashionable - they're very fashion-forward. I know that the number of times I've complained about the sheer amount of big name logo branded flagships around the city might have given the unfair impression that locals actually buy this stuff, but as I've mentioned before, the glitzy stores are mainly there to cater to mainland Chinese tourists wanting to spend a bit of money on luxury items they can't get back home. The Hong Kong crowd? Well, they've come to appreciate the slightly less mainstream yet ultimately stylish choices - many of them offered by retail giant I.T. who has given the city everything from Gareth Pugh to Christian Wijnants to A.P.C. Brands that may be hard to find in any city, yet can easily be sourced in Hong Kong. In addition, I.T. has done locals a favor by running the franchises of some of the hottest names in fashion, including flagships for Isabel Marant, Tsumori Chisato, Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and of course Comme des Garçons. The latter three used to be wedged into quaint colonial style buildings in Central's On Lan Street, which pretty much made this area shopping heaven. Unfortunately, as these structures were approved for demolition, Margiela and Comme des Garçons have since moved, but still remain neighbors in an even more prominent location a few blocks away.

SS10 looks from Comme des Garçons (images: style.com)

If there's any person out there who would like to see herself as an anti-establishment figure, it's probably Rei Kawakubo. One who is cited as being every designer's big hero and visionary but who herself always remains critical of the fashion industry and the business that surrounds it. No doubt a savvy business woman herself, she has often complained about the big glamorous boutiques on large shopping avenues, which means she probably just adores 80% of Hong Kong's shopping landscape (yes, I'm being sarcastic). Her goal of creating 'anti-flagships' started with the Guerilla Stores (I reviewed the last of its kind in Glasgow last year), then Dover Street Market, which puts an entirely different spin on 'concept store' as it basically houses an indoor market filled with designer goods. And lastly there are her own flagships. Like Dover Street Market, they can actually be found in high-end locations, but unlike the large logo flagships, they're still hard to find. Either tucked away in courtyards (Paris) or simply fitted with a very low-key entrance that doesn't scream 'come in!', you will usually still need an address to find one. Hong Kong's version is no different. I only sighted it because of the brightly lit Margiela boutique next door and even then, I wasn't sure if I was looking at a store entrance. All I saw were large vintage photographs on walls, but no clothes... nothing. You see, Hong Kong's CdG boutique is underground...

On my way down the stairs... photography galore.

Not surprisingly, this CdG store name is called 'Under the Ground' and in a city where large spaces are very hard to find, Kawakubo has managed the unthinkable: to create a 4400 square foot flagship in the heart of Hong Kong's most prestigious district. Because it's not in a mall and definitely not in your face, she has also still managed to retain the 'cool' factor. Having pushed the envelope in both fashion and retail concepts, Kawakubo isn't content on having every of her flagships look the same either. Much like Balenciaga, every store has a theme and in this case, with the help of Kerim Ragimov's signature prints, the store has been converted into a gallery where you don't just get to admire the works of art that are the clothes, but are automatically immersed in the images surrounding you. In addition, the store layout is spectacular as well. Having finally ventured past the unassuming entrance and the stairway tunnel where I passed a group of swimmers, then a crowd of baseball fans and finally an African tribe at the beginning of the basement, I was greeted by two archways: one that presented a holiday family snapshot by a lake and revealed the menswear section behind it. Another opening lead to the CdG Play section.

A tribe near the stairs and the entrance to the menswear section.

Larger than life six pack abs? Yes please! (left). A first glimpse at some of the clothes (right).

Different sections and cubicles as well as varying heights of the ceiling were specifically designed to give the impression you're walking through a maze. It's not that easy to get lost though. As with most things CdG the design is quite simple and everything is laid out neatly. I first started out in the menswear section that merged with the Junya Watanabe range. T-shirts were stacked on shelves that formed part of the circular wall and similar racks held dresses and coats. As with most major CdG stores outside Japan, this one stocked the entire range of labels associated with the brand (that's 15 collections in total), so if you're a fan, you'll definitely find something to buy.

More menswear and some looks from Junya Watanabe.

At the time, I saw mostly FW09 items, though true to Kawakubo's visionary mindset, everything from that season predicted the trends of this one: military looks, sheer fabric and nude colors to name a few. Once I got to the CdG section, I spotted the signature draped coats and shirts, the trompe l'oeil capes, sheer dresses in tulle and chiffon and a lot of khaki. The funky shoes with painted on toes and in leopard print (for both men and women) were abundant, as were the nearby special edition Converse sneakers from the 'Play' range. Moving past the circular shelves, a simple wooden version (next to a group of female boxers) held more accessories for the men.

A few Comme des Garçons FW09 looks.

Overview of the other end of the room, where wooden racks and more graphic prints could be found.

The most obvious feature though was the exhibition space in the center. To launch the store opening, CdG had collaborated with famed Chinese artist Ai Wei Wei, who designed three porcelain watermelons and matching t-shirts. Only the latter was for sale at the hefty price of around 160 EUR and judging by the large number of shirts still available, not many were falling for the 'limited edition' trick. Nevertheless, it was still interesting to behold all of this in the middle of a store setting.

'Watermelon' by Ai We Wei and matching t-shirts.

More clothes and prints.

On the other side of the exhibition space, I sighted more menswear, the Tao range and finally a few more special edition items, this time from the 'Jingle Flowers' range, which included everything from plastic dolls, toy animals, snow globes filled with flower petals and wooden chairs to t-shirts and wallets. Staff was (as is typical in Hong Kong) very attentive and helpful. Add to the fact that they were all decked out in CdG, they also looked way cooler than most people in the store, which might probably be a great motivation for some to splurge on an item, if only to look a little more cutting-edge. I will however say that as crazy as some of the stuff may seem, CdG is a lot more wearable than you'd think as long as you know how integrate it into your existing wardrobe and don't try to emulate a runway look.

The circular section towards the middle (or as accessed via the other entryway).

The 'Play' range in fibre glass shelves and placed on white benches.

My last stop was the center area where the majority of the 'Play' items (i.e. the more affordable stuff) was stocked. Judging by the larger amount of shoppers here, I'm guessing it's also a great place to get gifts as a last-minute present. The signature heart print could be found on shirts, wallets and totes. Anyone who missed out on shopping in Dover Street Market could get DSM branded items (though I think at a slight surcharge). And if you don't get a chance to shop offline at all, the DSM e-shop stocks a large amount of 'Play' and other special products as well.

Wooden shelves with the familiar graphic prints in the center(left) and the comparably white cash desk (right).

Items from the 'Jingle Flowers' range, incl. wooden seats, tees, dolls and toy animals.

Despite the fact that the entire area was underground, the store still had an airy vibe and the graphic prints definitely added to a more 'outdoor' atmosphere despite some of the stark white interiors. Even if CdG isn't a local brand, it's definitely worth checking out simply because I've found every one of the stores to be so different from the other (hence the reason I keep blogging about them). And more importantly, it does make for a nice change from the numerous branded flagships you'll see all over town once you do emerge from Rei Kawakubo's subterranean world.

SS10 looks from Junya Watanabe (images: style.com)

SS10 looks from Tao (images: style.com)

Address: 10 Ice House Street, Central, Hong Kong
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sun: 11:00-20:00