Gareth Pugh (Hong Kong)

The one thing any visitor will quickly notice about Hong Kong is the abundance of prominent designer flagships all around town, especially those of the flashy logo variety which attract mostly mainland Chinese tourists with plenty of cash to spend. And while Hong Kong locals used to love these brands as well, more and more hip or discerning shoppers are opting for labels without the LV or Gucci stamp. The company that came to their rescue years ago was I.T., a retail giant that not only hosts high-street chains and its own multi-label boutiques stocking all the more contemporary designer gear, but also negotiated exclusive rights to open flagships for some of the most popular labels. This explains why thanks to I.T., Hong Kong is lucky enough to have three Isabel Marant boutiques or several Tsumori Chisato outlets to name a few.

Looks from the FW10 collection (images: Style.com).

But the biggest coup are the row of stores along Central's Ice House Street. A fashionista's dream come true, you'll find the Ann Demeulemeester, Maison Martin Margiela and Comme des Garçons flagships side by side - and the newest addition: Gareth Pugh's first and only standalone boutique in the world. While Hong Kong may seem an unlikely choice for a debut and a store wasn't at the top of Pugh's priority list, I.T. made the designer an offer he just couldn't refuse. The result: a futuristic 658 square-foot venue with a decor that mirrors his designs perfectly, courtesy of the London studio Daytrip. The storefront lacks a traditional window display and instead offers pedestrians a view of the giant LED screen featuring short film snippets of his work. The rest of the store is both dark and illuminated, matte and glossy: black rubber cases and racks, black tiled floors/ceilings and ash gray walls give the retail space a distinct gothic vibe.

Overview of the boutique (top image: Daytrip) and racks of clothes (bottom).

Even the store facade features black rubber paint (imported from the UK of course). According to Pugh (via WWD) "Because it was my first store, I knew I had to do something that was very me. I went back to my runway shows and thought, 'what could be more me than a black box?'" The LED display, which from afar looks like any regular TV screen, is the biggest attraction though. Inspired by his friends Ruth Hogben (who's films run on a loop on screen) and Nick Knight, he hopes to one day connect the display to his studio via the Internet, so that even beyond opening hours, viewers are connected to his work.

More of the store, incl. the geometric shapes which can be found on cardigans (top right) and display cases.

A closer look at the LED display (left) and the individual LED lights that create the moving images (right).

While the store, in all its blackness, may seem a bit intimidating, it's actually not. Once you get past the entrance, you'll realize that the compact size makes the area almost cozy... well, as cozy as a black box can get. Better yet, the one very friendly SA working there was helpful but also doing his own thing so you were left to browse at your own leisure (in my experience, HK SAs are notorious for stalking customers around stores). I loved the fact that some of Pugh's signature geometric shapes could be found on the brightly lit display cases. Clothing was neatly arranged and it was great to see so much of his collection in one place. Even in the UK, it's difficult to find more than a few of his pieces in select stores, and I quickly noticed that much of what was featured in-store was not from the runway and a lot more wearable.

View of the adjoining second room (top image: Daytrip). Seating area and a shearling leather jacket (bottom).

The entrance area as seen from the back (left), a padded jacket and loose knits (right).

The second room with an elaborate dress on display (left). A very heavy safety pin scarf (top) and other accessories (bottom).

Famous for his futuristic, almost sci-fi looks, Pugh has toned it down a little in recent seasons, but a lot of what you see is still a little 'out there'. For every cool structured leather jacket I found, there was another padded wool coat that only Lady Gaga could pull off. Yet beyond the avant-garde, there were knits, separates and evening dresses that looked both luxurious and edgy. And of course there's always the accessories, such as the great suede/leather wedge boots I sighted or the safety pin scarf.

The padded changing room.

More of the store (right), a structured leather jacket and leather/suede ankle wedge boots (left).

If you do decide to try something on, the padded changing room provides a nice contrast to the rest of the store: silver gray and surrounded by mirrors. The lack of excessive furniture or decor makes the boutique seem larger and the second section, where the changing room and a small seating area can be found, houses even more looks which are slightly more elaborate than the knits and jackets in the main hall. A fun browse if you like Pugh's work or favor more avant-garde fashion, but I'd probably go just for the terrific LED display alone. And definitely a welcome change from the typical big designer brands that populate Hong Kong - a relief from logo-mania if you will.

Looks from the SS11 collection (images: Style.com).

Address: 10 Ice House Street, Central, Hong Kong
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sun: 11:00-20:00
Gareth Pugh Homepage