Selfridges: Project Ocean - Washed Up (London, UK)

As you all know, the fashion and retail industry is at its best when it doesn't just present the world with pretty clothes, but fights for a charitable cause. This May and June, Selfridges launched a special campaign titled 'Project Ocean' that saw the department store tackle the problem of over-fishing and poor fishing practices. Partnering with over 20 environmental and conservation groups, the main goal was to celebrate the beauty of the ocean, help the general public understand the threats to the ocean and make positive choices about the right fish to buy and eat.

As part of Project Ocean, Selfridges is raising money for the Zoological Society of London to create Marine Reserves – protected areas in the ocean set aside as safe havens for fish and their ecosystems. In addition, the store is featuring a host of activities including everything from celebrity chef cooking demonstrations to craft events for children. But the event that immediately caught my eye, was the 'Washed Up' fashion exhibition, curated by Judith Clark.

Overview of the exhibition space. The pieces were displayed in glass tanks, while visitors walked along wooden planks surrounded by corals.

Housed in the concept store, the exhibition showcases the most interesting ocean inspired pieces from big-name designers such as Alexander McQueen, Hussein Chalayan and Gareth Pugh to name a few. Also on display is Lady Gaga's famous lobster hat, designed by Philip Treacy. According to Clark "it is a rare opportunity for a curator of dress to be able to draw attention of such great political importance and urgency”. Having visited this exhibit last weekend, I was stunned by how incredible the exhibition space looked and think Clark did an excellent job. The haunting and desolate backdrop of driftwood and dead coral (salvaged from customs after it was seized from illegal smugglers) provided a stark contrast to the exquisite pieces on display and highlighted the critical environmental issues of Project Ocean. The corresponding window display was equally striking. Each set of designs was categorized into groups such as 'The Deep' or 'Atlantis', depending on what the pieces were inspired by, and an accompanying fact sheet gave additional information on the subject.

Radiolarum: Hussein Chalayan / The Deep: Hussein Chalayan

Left: Hussein Chalayan- Bubble Dress FW07/08. Right: Hussein Chalayan- LED Dress, February 2009 (made of 15 000 LED lights under fabric), both in collaboration with Swarovski.

Underwater Flora: Maison Martin Margiela, John Rocha / Oil Spill: John Rocha

Left: Maison Martin Margiela Artisanal- Flora Dress FW11/12, John Rocha- Reef Dress SS11. Right: John Rocha- Black Reef Dress FW10/11

The Beach: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac, Mariel Manuel

Top: Jean-Charles de Castelbajac- Shark Dress SS10. Bottom: Mariel Manuel- Lobster Bodybuilder Ensemble (left) and Octopus Dress (right), both from the 'Keep Your Eye on the Doughnut' collection, 2010.

Structure & Geometry: Junya Watanabe, Sandra Backlund, Iris van Herpen

Top: Junya Watanabe- top, private collection (left), Sandra Backlund- Origami top, Ink Blot test paper (right).
Bottom: Iris van Herpen- 3D printed top and skirt, Crystalization collection.

Texture: Gareth Pugh, Iris van Herpen

Left: Gareth Pugh- Fisch Scale Dress SS11. Right: Iris van Herpen- RI011, Radiation Invasion, Ecco Leather, Porcelain Treatment.

Atlantis: Alexander McQueen, Andrea Cammarosano

Top: Alexander McQueen- Jellyfish Print Ensemble (left), Plato's Atlantis SS10. Andrea Cammarosano- Seaweed Dress, Serenada Moleculare 2008 (right). Bottom: Alexander McQueen- Jellyfish Dress, Plato's Atlantis SS10.

Octopus: Iris van Herpen

Iris van Herpen- Octopus Dress, Escapism Couture.

The Water's Edge: Vintage / Looking Out To Sea: Vintage

This category focused on the history of swimwear and seaside inspired leisure dresses. From left: Blue & yellow skirted swimsuit 1820s, Swimsuit C 1900, Blue & white striped bustle dress 1870s, 'Stored' dress with abstract fish motif 1850s.

Hats

Left: Philip Treacy- Lobster Hat, courtesy of Lady Gaga. Top: Naomi Filmer- Crystal Swimming Cap. Right: Stephen Jones- Sway Hat (right).

Top: 1920s Brain Coral Cloche; Judith Clark- Pearl Waves: A Hypothetical 1930s wig (embroidery: Rosie Taylor-Davies).
Bottom: Stephen Jones- Beach Comber Hat; Philip Treacy- Zero Gravity Hat.

From left: Philip Treacy- Feather Ocean Worm Hat, Justin Smith Esquire- Rope Octopus Hair, Emma Yeo- Swan 20 Headdress, Stephen Jones- Shoal Hat, Justin Smith Esquire- Rope Beach Bonnet.

Stephen Jones- Fish Mobile Hat.

From left: Dai Rees for Alexander McQueen- Echinoderm Headdress, Emma Yeo- Dragonfly 9 Headdress, Zana Gorman- Headdress, Zara Gorman- Shell Hat, Philip Treacy- Leaf Hat.

If you happen to be in the London area, I'd highly recommend a visit (the exhibition ends June 8). As a fish eater and scuba diver, I had witnessed the damage done to the marine world, but wasn't all too aware of which species were actually endangered. If you're not in the area or still want to play a part in rescuing the ocean, you can donate to Project Ocean here or inform yourself as to what type of fish you should and shouldn't eat. Selfridges has not only created a free pocket guide, available in their stores, but also designed a (free) iPhone app, complete with a fish guide, fish recipes (yum!) and restaurant reviews. And lastly, if you want to make a real statement, you can also purchase special edition Project Ocean items, including totes, tees and shoes online.

Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion - Exhibition (London, UK)

Before I bombard you with all the fashion treasures I uncovered in Reykjavik, I thought I'd share a post that's so long overdue, I wasn't sure if I should still bother blogging about it. But since this was one of the best fashion exhibitions I've seen to date and the subject matter is quite timeless, I thought it might be worth sharing. The 'Future Beauty: 30 Years of Japanese Fashion' exhibition, which most Londoners may be familiar with, was hosted by the Barbican Art Gallery and showcased avant-garde Japanese fashion from the early 80s to now. Along with visionaries such as Issey Miyake, Yohji Yamamoto and Rei Kawakubo, who challenged the Western fashion aesthetic and redefined it for the world, the new generation of designers such as Tao Kurihara and Mintdesigns is featured as well.

As the first gallery in Europe to extensively highlight contemporary Japanese fashion, I thought that both the Barbican and Japanese fashion historian/curator Akiko Fukai did an excellent job. What I enjoyed most (apart from the clothing) was the layout, which not only saw the numerous pieces divided and grouped in a large space surrounded by sheer fabric draped from the ceiling, but also followed an order that for once wasn't chronological. The ground floor had a thematic approach, with four categories that included 'In Praise of Shadows', 'Flatness', 'Innovation and Tradition' as well as 'Cool Japan'. The top floor presented the main Japanese designers separately and also featured additional material such as runway videos, inspirational literature and other memorabilia.

For anyone who wasn't able to attend the exhibition (which unfortunately is no longer running), I'd highly recommend getting the official book by Akiko Fukai, which can be purchased via Amazon here (and it's even on sale!). It follows the basic structure of the exhibition, but includes plenty more background information and photography. Definitely a must-read for any fashion lover.

Below you'll find a few highlights from the exhibit (and book), categorized as described above. Don't forget to click the link, to read more after the jump.

In Praise of Shadows

This section reveals the love for monochromatic shades adopted by Japanese designers, which allow a focus on details and textures, rather than color. According to Fukai, the color palette stems from the cultural sensibility attuned to light and shade, as well as the power of black.

Pieces by Rei Kawakubo/Comme des Garçons, Yohji Yamamoto and Jun Takahashi.

More black artworks by Rei Kawakubo and Yohji Yamamoto.

Flatness

This category showcased the love and contrast of both flatness and volume. During a time when Western fashion was dominated by bodycon garments, the Japanese were fascinated by creating space between fabric and body - an expression of 'ma', a Japanese concept that views voids between objects as rich, energized spaces. Commissioned by Rei Kawakubo, photographer Naoya Hatakeyama's works reveal the geometric shapes and 'flatness' of Kawakubo's garments when unworn.

Issey Miyake's famous Pleats series created extraordinary outlines which had an abstract relationship with the body.

Rei Kawakubo's voluminous gowns in contrast with their 'flatness' (courtesy of Naoya Hatakeyama) when unworn.

Innovation and Tradition

Modern Japanese design also saw the complete reinvention of traditional garments and techniques, such as the kimono and origami, as well as the integration of traditional patterns in contemporary pieces.

These incredible Issey Miyake pieces showed how garments were created from just one piece of long fabric.

The use of structural origami inspired techniques as used by Yohji Yamamoto (top left), Junya Watanabe (lower row) and the beautiful gold dress by Koji Tatsuno.

Rei Kawakubo's use of Japanese iconography, embroidery and layering for Comme des Garçons.

Traditional patterns and structures reinvented by (starting left) Kenzo, Matohu, Yohji Yamamoto and Tao Kurihara.

Cool Japan

The final section on the lower level presented the young wave of designers influenced primarily by Japanese streetstyle and the crop of independent labels that defined the look in the Harajuku area. In addition to the use of manga and cartoon characters, the showcase lightly touches on the cosplay (costume play) phenomenon, as well as the Lolita and Gothic Lolita styles which have made their mark on Japanese high fashion.

This colorful area featured manga and other cartoon inspired designs. Pieces by Ohya, Zucca and Junya Watanabe.

Looks by Jun Takahashi for Undercover (top). A playful dress with a 'doll' collar by Fumito Ganryu (lower left) and a frilly number by Tao Kurihara for Tao Comme des Garçons.

The second part of the exhibition, which focuses on individual designers (including Yohji Yamamoto, Rei Kawakubo, Issey Miyake, Junya Watanabe and more), can be viewed after the jump.

Comme des Garçons (Hong Kong)

Hong Kong people aren't just fashionable - they're very fashion-forward. I know that the number of times I've complained about the sheer amount of big name logo branded flagships around the city might have given the unfair impression that locals actually buy this stuff, but as I've mentioned before, the glitzy stores are mainly there to cater to mainland Chinese tourists wanting to spend a bit of money on luxury items they can't get back home. The Hong Kong crowd? Well, they've come to appreciate the slightly less mainstream yet ultimately stylish choices - many of them offered by retail giant I.T. who has given the city everything from Gareth Pugh to Christian Wijnants to A.P.C. Brands that may be hard to find in any city, yet can easily be sourced in Hong Kong. In addition, I.T. has done locals a favor by running the franchises of some of the hottest names in fashion, including flagships for Isabel Marant, Tsumori Chisato, Maison Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester and of course Comme des Garçons. The latter three used to be wedged into quaint colonial style buildings in Central's On Lan Street, which pretty much made this area shopping heaven. Unfortunately, as these structures were approved for demolition, Margiela and Comme des Garçons have since moved, but still remain neighbors in an even more prominent location a few blocks away.

SS10 looks from Comme des Garçons (images: style.com)

If there's any person out there who would like to see herself as an anti-establishment figure, it's probably Rei Kawakubo. One who is cited as being every designer's big hero and visionary but who herself always remains critical of the fashion industry and the business that surrounds it. No doubt a savvy business woman herself, she has often complained about the big glamorous boutiques on large shopping avenues, which means she probably just adores 80% of Hong Kong's shopping landscape (yes, I'm being sarcastic). Her goal of creating 'anti-flagships' started with the Guerilla Stores (I reviewed the last of its kind in Glasgow last year), then Dover Street Market, which puts an entirely different spin on 'concept store' as it basically houses an indoor market filled with designer goods. And lastly there are her own flagships. Like Dover Street Market, they can actually be found in high-end locations, but unlike the large logo flagships, they're still hard to find. Either tucked away in courtyards (Paris) or simply fitted with a very low-key entrance that doesn't scream 'come in!', you will usually still need an address to find one. Hong Kong's version is no different. I only sighted it because of the brightly lit Margiela boutique next door and even then, I wasn't sure if I was looking at a store entrance. All I saw were large vintage photographs on walls, but no clothes... nothing. You see, Hong Kong's CdG boutique is underground...

On my way down the stairs... photography galore.

Not surprisingly, this CdG store name is called 'Under the Ground' and in a city where large spaces are very hard to find, Kawakubo has managed the unthinkable: to create a 4400 square foot flagship in the heart of Hong Kong's most prestigious district. Because it's not in a mall and definitely not in your face, she has also still managed to retain the 'cool' factor. Having pushed the envelope in both fashion and retail concepts, Kawakubo isn't content on having every of her flagships look the same either. Much like Balenciaga, every store has a theme and in this case, with the help of Kerim Ragimov's signature prints, the store has been converted into a gallery where you don't just get to admire the works of art that are the clothes, but are automatically immersed in the images surrounding you. In addition, the store layout is spectacular as well. Having finally ventured past the unassuming entrance and the stairway tunnel where I passed a group of swimmers, then a crowd of baseball fans and finally an African tribe at the beginning of the basement, I was greeted by two archways: one that presented a holiday family snapshot by a lake and revealed the menswear section behind it. Another opening lead to the CdG Play section.

A tribe near the stairs and the entrance to the menswear section.

Larger than life six pack abs? Yes please! (left). A first glimpse at some of the clothes (right).

Different sections and cubicles as well as varying heights of the ceiling were specifically designed to give the impression you're walking through a maze. It's not that easy to get lost though. As with most things CdG the design is quite simple and everything is laid out neatly. I first started out in the menswear section that merged with the Junya Watanabe range. T-shirts were stacked on shelves that formed part of the circular wall and similar racks held dresses and coats. As with most major CdG stores outside Japan, this one stocked the entire range of labels associated with the brand (that's 15 collections in total), so if you're a fan, you'll definitely find something to buy.

More menswear and some looks from Junya Watanabe.

At the time, I saw mostly FW09 items, though true to Kawakubo's visionary mindset, everything from that season predicted the trends of this one: military looks, sheer fabric and nude colors to name a few. Once I got to the CdG section, I spotted the signature draped coats and shirts, the trompe l'oeil capes, sheer dresses in tulle and chiffon and a lot of khaki. The funky shoes with painted on toes and in leopard print (for both men and women) were abundant, as were the nearby special edition Converse sneakers from the 'Play' range. Moving past the circular shelves, a simple wooden version (next to a group of female boxers) held more accessories for the men.

A few Comme des Garçons FW09 looks.

Overview of the other end of the room, where wooden racks and more graphic prints could be found.

The most obvious feature though was the exhibition space in the center. To launch the store opening, CdG had collaborated with famed Chinese artist Ai Wei Wei, who designed three porcelain watermelons and matching t-shirts. Only the latter was for sale at the hefty price of around 160 EUR and judging by the large number of shirts still available, not many were falling for the 'limited edition' trick. Nevertheless, it was still interesting to behold all of this in the middle of a store setting.

'Watermelon' by Ai We Wei and matching t-shirts.

More clothes and prints.

On the other side of the exhibition space, I sighted more menswear, the Tao range and finally a few more special edition items, this time from the 'Jingle Flowers' range, which included everything from plastic dolls, toy animals, snow globes filled with flower petals and wooden chairs to t-shirts and wallets. Staff was (as is typical in Hong Kong) very attentive and helpful. Add to the fact that they were all decked out in CdG, they also looked way cooler than most people in the store, which might probably be a great motivation for some to splurge on an item, if only to look a little more cutting-edge. I will however say that as crazy as some of the stuff may seem, CdG is a lot more wearable than you'd think as long as you know how integrate it into your existing wardrobe and don't try to emulate a runway look.

The circular section towards the middle (or as accessed via the other entryway).

The 'Play' range in fibre glass shelves and placed on white benches.

My last stop was the center area where the majority of the 'Play' items (i.e. the more affordable stuff) was stocked. Judging by the larger amount of shoppers here, I'm guessing it's also a great place to get gifts as a last-minute present. The signature heart print could be found on shirts, wallets and totes. Anyone who missed out on shopping in Dover Street Market could get DSM branded items (though I think at a slight surcharge). And if you don't get a chance to shop offline at all, the DSM e-shop stocks a large amount of 'Play' and other special products as well.

Wooden shelves with the familiar graphic prints in the center(left) and the comparably white cash desk (right).

Items from the 'Jingle Flowers' range, incl. wooden seats, tees, dolls and toy animals.

Despite the fact that the entire area was underground, the store still had an airy vibe and the graphic prints definitely added to a more 'outdoor' atmosphere despite some of the stark white interiors. Even if CdG isn't a local brand, it's definitely worth checking out simply because I've found every one of the stores to be so different from the other (hence the reason I keep blogging about them). And more importantly, it does make for a nice change from the numerous branded flagships you'll see all over town once you do emerge from Rei Kawakubo's subterranean world.

SS10 looks from Junya Watanabe (images: style.com)

SS10 looks from Tao (images: style.com)

Address: 10 Ice House Street, Central, Hong Kong
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sun: 11:00-20:00

Comme des Garçons Boutique (Paris, France)

I've always had a soft spot for Comme des Garçons, rivaled only by my fascination with certain Belgian designers. There's something about the unconventional nature of such labels, not just the designs themselves, but the anti-fashion philosophy, that I still find refreshing in a day and age when big flashy flagships and blinged up clothes seem to be there to distract rather than represent any sort of concept. Even though Comme des Garçons isn't originally a French brand, I'm sure Parisians would argue otherwise considering they'll happily adopt anything Japanese as their own (Kenzo, Yohji Yamamoto and thus Limi Feu are in the same boat). Then again, a label with a French name, who's designer has a residence in the French capital and shows at Paris Fashion Week is probably enough to make this brand local enough. In any case, it is well worth visiting if you're ever in Europe, considering it's only one of two stores left on the continent that's dedicated to all things CdG.

FW09 runway looks (images: style.com).

Earlier this year, I was happy to stumble upon a Comme des Garçons Guerilla Store. These tiny stores in non-fashion capitals usually housed in old warehouses or sheds were Rei Kawakubo's answer to creating an anti-flagship. Unfortunately I just learned that it recently closed down, meaning that all Guerilla Stores have disappeared for now. It's no secret that Kawakubo is a genius: she had no formal training in fashion design (she studied fine arts and literature), so she conveys her ideas verbally to her patternmakers. After working as a freelance stylist, she founded the CdG label in 1973 and in 1981 moved to Paris to present her collections during Fashion Week, causing quite the stir with her black, distressed, often unconventionally structured architectural pieces. Of coure these days you'll also find slightly more toned-down items in her collection, along with a huge selection of other CdG sub-labels ranging from 'Shirt' to 'Play' to 'Tricot'. What's truly remarkable is how strongly involved Kawakubo is in all aspects of her brand, although I'm still surprised a CdG homepage doesn't exist. Her artistic vision encompasses many other areas of design, from graphics to packaging, to costume and exhibition design, to furniture, and to the architecture of her retail spaces. She has pushed the envelope when it comes to retail design, not just with quirky concepts such as the Guerilla Stores, but the most magnificent example is probably still Dover Street Market, the London concept store that puts all others of its kind to shame.

The entrance as seen from the street (left) and the first courtyard (right).

It might seem slightly hypocritical that given her criticism of typical luxury flagships, Dover Street Market and the regular CdG boutiques are actually huge, impressive and situated in fairly prestigious areas. But unlike many other flagships, she prefers to utilize a minimal conceptual design that while striking, also lets the products shine. And in most cases, despite the vast floor space of these flagships, the entrances somehow still manage to remain hidden or are so unobtrusive, you'd walk by if you didn't know the exact location of the store. The Paris outlet is the perfect example. I've known people who've visited several times but never knew the CdG store existed even if they walked along the fashionable rue Faubourg St.-Honoré more than once. There's only a small sign near the main gate, then you have to pass through one courtyard, leading into another, where you'll finally find the of the store on the right.

More casual pieces and CdG 'Noir', as well as bags by World Archive.

Some colorful tartan messenger bags.

The first time I entered this store, I thought I'd accidentally walked into an art gallery. The entire store is kept in red and white. The only furniture you'll find are long rectangular benches and wooden cubes used to display products. The store concept is Kawakubo's of course, who called upon her long-time contractor Takao Kawasaki to help her with this project. According to the designer "making a shop is like making clothes: you need to excite and energize people. There has to be the same shock and sense of surprise" adding that "red is the new black... black is no longer strong and has become harder to use. Red looks most beautiful in fiberglass", referring to the fiberglass walls, furniture and the large counter near the entrance.

Overview of the tunnel-shaped entrance area (left) and more colorful items (right).

The store has a bit of an L-shape, so once you enter, you're in a large horizontal area that leads into a bigger space towards the left. I started browsing the section dedicated to some of the more casual clothes, including 'Noir', 'Shirt' and a few 'Play' items. Many colorful bags were on display on the center table, several of them were non-CdG items from the World Archive range, which are also stocked in Dover Street Market. There were also a few cute signature polka-dot pieces and colorful tartan messenger bags, which were the only splashes of color you could find in the area. I understood how smart it was to make everything red and white, since most of the clothing and accessories have accents of (other) colors or are kept in black.

RTW menswear (left) and yes, these shoes are for the gents as well (right).

Some casual pieces for the men.

Near the main counter/cash desk you'll find smaller accessories such as wallets, as well as perfume. If it's fragrances you're looking for though, CdG also has it's own perfume flagship near Place de Vendôme. The men's area was categorized by sub-label as well, starting with the dressier clothes first - and some very bizarre shoes - then moving on to the casual pieces.

Some SS09 Junya Watanabe items, incl. the colorful denim number (right).

The largest section was dedicated to the women's main line, as well as the collections by Kawakubo's protégés Junya Watanabe and Tao Kurihara. When I went, a lot of the SS09 range was still available, including Watanabe's colorful denim pieces and the cute bolero jackets by Tao.

More Junya Watanabe and Tao items, incl. the fabulous Tao jacket (right).

I also spied more of the chiffon tutu dresses and entire racks of the more structured clothing. If you're wondering who would wear some of the more unconventional pieces, I can tell you that while I was browsing, a woman wearing a padded black architectural CdG dress entered the store and started looking around as well. It was a bit 'too much', but she looked stunning in the outfit. In fact, the store was fairly busy and had a relatively relaxed atmosphere, so while I'm sure some would still consider it intimidating because of the stark decor, it's actually more pleasant to shop than some of the more typical flagships, such as Givenchy or Lanvin down the street.

RTW women's wear and items from other sub-labels.

I'm not going to bore you with every item I saw, because to be honest, I can't even remember half the stuff I sighted. The selection is huge, since every single CdG sub-label is represented here. I would like to note that there's also a 'chill-out-zone' on the other side of the boutique, where more of the 'Play' items can be found. It tends to be closed, but you can ask them to open it up for you, if you need something. The chill-out area consists of red cubes that glide across the floor (via remote I assume).

Still loving those tulle dresses (right).

The 'Shirt' collection (left) and the chill-out-zone with it's moving cubes (right image: designboom.com).

So now that I've told you exactly where the store is and how to find the entrance, there's no excuse not to visit the flagship when you're in town. It makes for a nice change from the LV, Gucci, Prada type of shopping you'll find in the area.

Junya Watanabe FW09 (images: style.com).

Tao FW09 (images: style.com).

Address: 54 rue Faubourg Saint-Honoré, 75008 Paris
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 11:00-19:00