Showing posts with label Christopher Kane. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Christopher Kane. Show all posts

Ballgowns: British Glamour Since 1950 - V&A Exhibition (London)


 

What started out as a short blog hiatus, somehow managed to turn into a very long break. All of which I blame on work, other commitments and the fact that fashion in the last few months has left me slightly uninspired. But having dragged my friend T to the V&A Ballgowns exhibition last week, I thought it would be a nice way to revive Haute World for a bit (though bear with me - updates may still be somewhat sporadic).

Having first perused the reopened fashion galleries, which I'd highly recommend - especially considering it's free - T and I began our cultural journey on the ground floor of the exhibit. Split into two parts, this area showcased the ballgowns since 1950, while the upper level featured the more contemporary dresses. Throughout the visit, various dresses from the exhibit could be seen projected on the ceiling of the dome above.

Not surprisingly, the most striking gowns were the ones from past eras - back when formal attire was only the norm for private events and handmade for a particular client. Wearers ranged from royalty to debutantes with every outfit immaculately made and beautiful to behold. Through time, private functions evolved to the more public charity balls - and in recent years: red-carpet events.


Ballgowns since 1950

Top: Mary Donan, Yuki, Matthew Williamson and Belville Sassoon, left: Victor Edelstein, Bruce Oldfield (made for Bianca Jagger) and Murray Arbeid worn by Diana, Princess of Wales, right: Hardy Amies.

Designed for the ball: David Emanuel, Worth of London, Norman Hartnell

Rayne Shoes. Gowns and accessories by Dior

Radical Robes 1990-2012, including gowns by Vivienne Westwood, Alexander McQueen and, Zandra Rhodes

Left: Alexander McQueen dress from his last collection. Right: 'Elvis Dress' by Catherin Walker created for Diane, Princess of Wales

The biggest contrast, once you reached the upper level was that despite the beauty of the dresses, grouped together in three clusters, there seemed to be a personal touch missing. As everyone knows, these days evening dresses are worn on the red carpet for a mere few hours, chosen by a stylist and lent to a celebrity, who's body shape was never the intended target of the designer. Unlike the lower level, which featured gowns that were actually purchased by their wearers and lovingly stored for future generations, it seems an awful shame that most gowns these days are passed from one celeb to another before ending back in a designer's showroom. 

Contemporary Ballgowns

Overview of one of the upper level displays. Right: Alexander McQueen feathered gown as worn by Daphne Guinness.

Left: Craig Lawrence, Christopher Kane, Ralph & Russo (as worn by Beyonce). Right: Vivienne Westwood.

Craig Lawrence, Jenny Packham (as worn by Sandra Bullock) and Gareth Pugh's metallic gown made of leather.

Giles Deacon, Nicholas Oakwell

Amanda Wakely, Holly Fulton

Roksanda Illincic

Left: Marchesa. Right: Mark Fast, John Galliano, Felicity Brown

Erdem, Mary Katrantzou

Nevertheless, the exhibition made a good point of showing that even contemporary British fashion houses like Alexander McQueen or Vivienne Westwood have successfully bridged the gap between the red carpet and traditional royal functions. With Britain being a focus of pretty much everything these days, this exhibition is definitely worth a visit and will thankfully be open for quite a while longer. If you're in London around this time, I'd definitley urge you to check it out - especially considering the images I took don't really do the gowns much justice...

Additional images shown above are the copyright of the V&A,  Peter Macdiarmid/Getty Images

London In Bloom - Spring Florals


Mount Street Gardens.

Spring has finally sprung - at least here in London. Temperatures are rising, the days are getting longer and the sun is making more frequent appearances. But of course Spring would be nothing without the beauty of blossoming flowers. And because the eight cherry trees in front of my living room window are a constant reminder of how wonderful this time of the year can be, I've been inspired to hunt down more floral delights in the shape of both the real thing and the fashion world's recurring love affair with the flower print.

Are you embracing floral patterns this season? Or would you prefer to just admire the botanical version instead? I know that there are a few pieces below I wouldn't mind owning...


Mulberry flagship window display (Bond Street).

Left: A stunning gown from Central Saint Martins graduate Hermione de Paula. Right: A blossoming tree in East London.

Left: Liberty's flower section. Right: A fun print on a Christopher Kane SS11 dress.

Current season Alexander McQueen (skull) scarves take on a floral twist.

Left: A vibrant dress by Cacharel. Right: Flower power at London's Bankside.

Claude Monet's Water-Lilies (1916), photographed at the Tate Modern.

Left: More flowers in front of Liberty. Right: A beautiful Dries van Noten piece.

Left: A modern take on the floral trend from Thakoon. Right: Jonathan Saunders mixes flowers with graphics.

Liberty's current in-store display, caught in a blur.

Another Jonathan Saunders creation.

Left: One of the many cherry blossoms in front of my window. Right: A gorgeous draped Vivienne Westwood dress featuring pink flowers.

Henry Holland's 'Debut' - Charity Event & Exhibition (London, UK)



There's nothing better than spending money on something when you know it's for a good cause. Which is why the combination of fashion and charity is such a great mix. The last time I posted about a charity collaboration, it involved designer dolls, which some of you (and yours truly) deemed to be a bit creepy at times. An event that happened this week titled Debut was decidedly less sinister, since it involved actual clothing, art and other memorabilia.

Launched by Henry Holland, Debut saw the designer recruit the help from fellow British creatives and friends, resulting in a large collection of coveted pieces which were first featured in a pre-event exhibition, then auctioned off on March 24. All proceeds went to Cancer Research UK, the world's leading charity dedicated to beating cancer through research.

A gorgeous venue: auction pieces displayed in the converted church that is One Mayfair.

I got a chance to catch a glimpse of some of the pieces prior to the auction event, all of which were presented in the stunning One Mayfair venue (a converted former church dating back to 1825). The lots up for auction focused on British fashion through the ages, featuring donations from the likes of Christopher Kane, Nicholas Kirkwood, Kate Moss or Paul Smith to name a few - while Agyness Deyn starred as a DJ during the actual auction.

Loved the pink-black combo of the seating area. The official booklet listed all auction items and the event schedule.

Below you'll find a few of the pieces that went up for auction. Which item(s) would you have bid on? Let me know!

Left: Peter Pilotto dress; the design was worn by Kate Bosworth. Right: Dress by Erdem, designed for Browns boutique to celebrate 40 years of British Fashion.

Donations by Henry Holland himself, included the signature House of Holland slogan shirts and an afternoon out with the man himself (left). A beautiful creation by milliner Stephen Jones (top right) and an autographed photograph of Kate Moss during Alexander McQueen's 2004 runway show, photographed by Richard Young.

Left: Christopher Kane red bandage dress from his first collection, as worn by Victoria Beckham. Right: Richard Nicoll dress featuring artwork by Linder Sterling.

Fashion as art: David Downton illustration of Erin O'Connor (top left), oversized limited edition signed Mary Quant stamp (lower left), painting from Alex Echo, who's art inspired Paul Smith (center), Simon Claridge pop-art of Kate Moss (top right), Dior by John Galliano photograph (lower right).

Left: Erdem floral dress. Right: Bellville Sassoon evening dress.

Top: Kate Moss for Longchamp bags designed exclusively by Kate for Debut (incl. handwritten note). Bottom: Nicholas Kirkwood shoes designed exclusively for Sarah Jessica Parker.

Left: House of Holland wedding dress reading 'Who needs a husband I've got House of Holland'. Right: 'History of Rainbows' dress by Tracey Boyd, exclusively for Debut.

More impressive shots: Twiggy (top left), Sid Vicious (bottom left), Tamara Rojo photographed by Paul Smith (center), David Bowie (top right), signed copy of Alexandra Schulman's first publication of Vogue UK as acting editor (lower right).

Vintage items, incl. a sparkly cardigan from the 20s (left).

If you missed 'Debut', you can always donate to Cancer Research UK via the official page. Henry Holland will be doing more charitable work next month when he runs the London Marathon for Oxfam along with a few friends (including Agyness once again). Donations for that can still be made via this fundraising page.

On a final note, if you happen to be in London this weekend, eco-brand People Tree is running a 'Sample Sale for Japan' until March 27 (near Aldgate East), with all proceeds going towards 'The Second Harvest Charity', which will provide food for the victims of the recent earthquake/tsunami in Japan.

Alice in Wonderland @ Printemps (Paris, France)


If, like me, you've been looking forward to one of the most highly anticipated movies of the year, you'll most likely have already drooled over the various editorials, movie set photos and anything else remotely related to Tim Burton's Alice in Wonderland. When I heard that French department store Printemps had collaborated with a few of the biggest fashion designers, allowing them to decorate a window, create outfits and interpret their version of Alice as they saw fit, I knew we were in for a treat. I saw sketches of the windows a while ago, but thought it would be better to share the real thing. These windows went up this week and will be on display until March 14.

(All quotes were taken from style.com and as usual, images can be enlarged by clicking on them.)

Bernard Willhelm

bernard willhelm alice in wonderland printempsbernard willhelm alice in wonderland printempsThe first window on the street. Gotta love those socks...

Christopher Kane / Nicholas Kirkwood

“I think my favorite Alice character is the March Hare. You can see I’ve made his watch rather prominent. This was a different design process for me, because I’m not usually so applicative—typically, I’m thinking about line, silhouette. But this time, I figured, why not just pile as much as I can on top?” —Nicholas Kirkwood

nicholas kirkwood christopher kane alice in wonderland printempsnicholas kirkwood alice in wonderland printempsThe shoes that stole the show... note the small watch on the left foot (top image; style.com).

I will say that the Kirkwoods were as spectacular as I though they'd be, although a little tricky to photograph. These shoes were made on commission for Printemps and were not available for sale. Since the store window version is the only pair in the world, I was determined to catch every detail... which resulted in me smacking my forehead against the glass several times as I crouched on the street floor. Very elegant (and sadly not the first time this has happened).

Ann Demeulemeester

“I’ve always been intrigued by cutout silhouettes. They are so intriguing, so poetic—the shadow of a soul. They tell everything about a character and they are open to be filled with one’s own imagination.” —Ann Demeulemeester

ann demeulemeester  alice in wonderland printempsann demeulemeester  alice in wonderland printempsOne of my favorite designs... the thigh-high boots were very cool, as were the cutouts on the dress. The figures represent both Alice and the Mad Hatter.

Charles Anastase

“I went to John Tenniel’s original illustration of Alice for inspiration. She’s seated at a table having tea, and her dress looks much more asymmetrical and theatrical than that boring Walt Disney version. It was also an auto-reference to my collections, as Lewis Carroll’s work has been one of the main inspirations of my label since its creation. Alice Liddell, the real little girl with long dark hair who inspired Carroll, is one of the very few icons that I have. The pictures of her are a constant inspiration for me.” —Charles Anastase

charles anastase  alice in wonderland printempscharles anastase  alice in wonderland printempsAnother beautiful piece. The giant bottle reads 'Buvez moi - Drink me'.

Chloé

“Running around careless and free in a romantic dress, falling down the rabbit hole, chasing time in a dreamlike state of mind, meeting unexpected characters with many tales to tell—sounds like many a girl’s night out!” —Chloé design team

chloe  alice in wonderland printempschloe  alice in wonderland printempsThe cute pleated dress was probably the most wearable creation. Macarons on the left made to look like pebbles courtesy of Ladurée.

Alexander McQueen

alexander mcqueen  alice in wonderland printempsalexander mcqueen  alice in wonderland printempsI love McQueen and even though this isn't a dress I would wear, I couldn't take my eyes off the ruffle detailing on the trumpet sleeves.

Manish Arora

manish arora  alice in wonderland printempsmanish arora  alice in wonderland printempsOne of the funkier pieces, the playing cards were made of the same foam material as the dress and featured small crystals which don't come across in the photos.

Maison Martin Margiela

“Alice’s silhouette is a blue upside-down dress with cage sleeve, as if she walked through the mirror and her dress completely reversed. A long ball gown has been reworked, upside-down, into a minidress. The bustier in taffetas becomes a pleated miniskirt. The petticoat in plonge becomes an asymmetrical draped top. The skirt in ‘plumetis’ tulle becomes a veil. A cage sleeve of whale-boned velvet ribbon is embroidered with pearls, crystals, and recycled jewels.” —Maison Martin Margiela

martin margiela  alice in wonderland printempsmartin margiela  alice in wonderland printempsMargiela's Alice & the Mad Hatter. Another favorite of mine. I thought the concept behind the upside down dress was brilliant. It also prompted me to tilt my head upside down standing in front of the window. Again... not very elegant.

Haider Ackermann

“My favorite character is the Duchess, who at first seems nearly as unpleasant as the Queen of Hearts. But she’s the antagonist of the queen, and at the end was only respectful and friendly, despite her tremendous ugliness. When I was designing this piece, I was seeing Alice running, escaping through the forest destroying her shiny dress.” —Haider Ackermann

haider ackermann  alice in wonderland printempshaider ackermann  alice in wonderland printempsThe giant bunny, made out of fake roses almost stole the limelight...

In addition to the window displays, Printemps had the Alice theme going on in-store as well. Smaller versions of the plastic mushrooms could be found next to mannequins on the 2nd floor, but another collaborator stole the show: Ladurée, didn't just provide the yummy macarons in the Chloé window... they also hosted their own Alice in Wonderland tea party in the basement of the store. Shoppers could indulge in sweet delicacies while sipping hot tea and marvel at the four floor-to-ceiling shelves that were crammed with books, macarons, bags and other bits and pieces. The tea room itself featured a mix of chess board and grass floors, surrounded by fake greenery sculpted into animals.

 alice in wonderland printempsThe giant 'Mad Hatter' shelves, spanning several storeys were crammed with goodies and featured images from the upcoming movie (left). Another oversized tea pot could be found dangling from the ceiling (right).

 alice in wonderland printempsThe 'Alice' shelves.

 alice in wonderland printempsSome of the tempting desserts (left), books and figurines on display (right).

 alice in wonderland printempsCare to join the tea party? The tea room in the basement viewed from the top (left) and ground (top right). The very dangerous dessert counter (right).