Sample Sale-ing in Paris

Who got up early last Thursday to check out The Outnet's 1$/1£ birthday sale? Many of my friends and some fellow bloggers did - and the verdict was unanimous: it sucked. Of course since most people didn't end up with a purchase, it was to be expected.. But while I only logged on five times (a half hour late mind you) only to be greeted with a time out screen or 'we're sorry' messages and finally the actual homepage two hours later (by then the 'sold out' stickers were plastered on almost every item), I was still frustrated. I hadn't waited up the whole night nor set my heart on scoring anything, but this experience made me realize that as much as I adore online-shopping and the convenience or occasional great deals it comes with - when we're talking big sales, I might actually prefer the 'real life' version... this coming from someone who hates queues and crowds. And as fate had it, three hours later I ended up heading to two old-fashioned sample sales by Maison Martin Margiela and Givenchy - where the experience was so completely different to the online one, I felt like doing a comparison post.

The very frustrating apology screen that greeted customers on The Outnet's UK site during the birthday sale (above) and the dreaded pink 'sold out' stickers that popped up within seconds of entering the sale.

This isn't going to be a rant about The Outnet, because to be honest, we all know this event was more like a lottery that was meant to increase their PR and global brand recognition. But I can't help feeling that every time there is a great online sample sale, whether it's on Gilt or HauteLook... your chances of getting the item you want are based on pure luck, sometimes dependent on server speed and the retailer's bandwidth to name a few.

Yesterday's Decades Two sale on HauteLook... 1 minute after logging on. The best stuff from Chloé or Bottega Veneta was already on hold.

This is how I've experienced the average 'coveted' online sample sale - i.e. the one that doesn't just sell junk or steak knives: you eagerly anticipate the start time of the sale by sitting in front of your computer and nervously clicking the refresh button every two seconds (make that one second if it's your favorite designer). The sale opens and you click to enter. Sometimes the server crashes or takes too long to load, in which case nervous refreshing is in order again. You're in the sale, find an item you love, put it in your shopping cart and check out (ideal situation). More often than not, you are greeted with 'sold out', 'on hold' stickers or depending on the retailer (Outnet and Yoox work this way sometimes), it's in your cart and you're told when checking out, that the item isn't available. In even worse cases, you've checked out and are informed days later the product is no longer in stock (Barneys and Harvey Nichols, I'm looking at you). Annoyingly enough, while online sales allow even those in the furthest corners of the world the possibility to shop great brands for cheap, going up against a global population of online shoppers means the competition is that much stiffer.

Gilt's Marc Jacobs handbag sale early this week. Five minutes after logging on, half the items were sold out.

Of course regular offline sample sales aren't necessarily better. In fact, nothing can evoke as much dread and excitement at the same time, as the mere mention of a sale. Think sample sales, and chances are these images will pop into your head:

As demonstrated by Isla Fisher in 'Confessions of a Shopaholic' - sample sale mania, starting with the ridiculously long queues (top), crowds surging towards the entrance (middle) and grabbing random items you see (bottom).

To an extent, those images ring true. I once witnessed a woman literally throw herself on a table of Stella McCartney shoes during a sample sale in London, in order to secure her must-have item (I'm sure she almost broke a rib). I can't say I've seen women fight over dresses and bags, but I'm certain it happens (wedding sample sales are supposedly the worst). Generally there's a lot of queuing involved, you end up getting there well in advance to secure a spot, you wildly put anything remotely interesting in your shopping bag, strip down to your undies in the middle of the room to try stuff on and wait even longer at the cash desk.

The fight scene: Isla Fisher aka Becky Bloomwood wrestling another shopper for a pair of Gucci boots.

However, I've found Parisian sample sales to be incredibly tame - with the exception of the Hermès bi-annual event which involves queuing for 4 hours and where eBay sellers with empty suitcases form half the line (thankfully I have never felt the need to go to this). Last year, I already posted about how refreshingly normal the seasonal sales in Paris are. Sample sales are pretty much the same. For both Margiela and Givenchy, I showed up on the first day of sales, one minute before doors were supposed to open. There were long queues but I only waited in line for 15 minutes. Once I got in, I was surprised by how empty the place looked, even though there were plenty of shoppers there. I started browsing - I was never pushed or shoved. Girls who wanted to browse my section of the clothes, would wait patiently until I was done. I tried on a few pieces, proceeded to the cash desk where I waited for another 10 minutes. I was in and out of each sale within an hour and it was probably the most relaxing shopping experience I could have had.

The venue: ranging from grand and majestic at Fendi (left, please note the lack of queues) to a loft warehouse for Vanessa Bruno (right).

Queues can of course be more or less horrid - last year I waited for two hours to get into Maje (which is merely a high street brand) and waited one minute to get into Fendi, but the actual shopping experience has always been the same: fellow Parisians respect you and don't feel the need to push or snatch away a dress that's right in front of your nose. The staff is generally very helpful. Margiela SAs running around in white lab coats would tell me which season each item was from and were kind enough to double-check the prices of the pieces I was planning on buying (a black dress and a grey cardigan).

Neat and organized: racks of clothes during a Chloé sample sale (left) and the coveted Vanessa Bruno totes categorized by color (right).

The best thing about 'real' sample sales though? They're straightforward. You know that even if you're last in line, chances are, not everything will be sold out by the time you enter the venue. If you're first in line (or on time), you'll definitely get in. Show up on the second day and chances are you won't even have to queue. Once you're in, you won't see 'sold out' stickers on clothes you may have wanted. If you have something in your shopping cart... it's pretty much yours and no one else can take it away. You get to see the clothes, try them on (albeit in a very public setting) and most importantly... take your time deciding whether you want something or not. And when you've finally checked out... the item is definitely yours and you're spared the whole ordeal of credit card authorization or cancelled orders.

Racks of YSL goodies and Kris van Assche gowns at a multi-designer sample sale.

Best of all? There's always a camaraderie going on with fellow shoppers, both during the wait outside and while browsing or trying on clothes. The most fun I had during these two sales was seeing girls and guys try on the craziest Margiela pieces or watch them attempt to walk in even more outrageous studded Givenchy heels. It's nice to see someone stand in front of a mirror with a glow in her eyes after having found the perfect LBD or hear squeals of delight when a shopper finds a pair of strappy platforms in her size for 90% off.

The Maison Martin Margiela sale I went to last week... taken 20 min after doors opened. Yes, it really was that spacious, with pieces dating back to 2007. The top floor catering to menswear (top right) and the relatively short queues at the cash desk (bottom right).

Am I saying online sales are worse? No, because I've scored great items both on- and offline. But I am saying that if you're lucky enough to have sample sales going on in your area and are terrified of the idea... to give them a chance. They're not all as bad as they're cut out to be. And if you're in Paris, depressed by the prices of designer goods but wanting to look as chic as most of the locals (who rarely pay full-price anyway), then definitely check them out. Despite being the fashion capital of the world filled with hardcore style addicts, Parisian shoppers are very well-behaved. The experience can be more fun than browsing overfilled department stores buzzing with tourists.

So what's your verdict on sample sales or sales in general? Online? Offline? Or would you rather spare yourself the stress and just shop at regular prices? Do tell!

Impressions of Hong Kong

Thank you everyone for the well wishes. I'm doing a bit better and have stopped feeling sorry for myself (a little). So without further delay, here the impressions of Hong Kong from a few weeks ago. One of the reasons I procrastinated doing this post was because I was born and raised there, which makes picking suitable photos that portray such a diverse city a little tricky. Another reason is that even though I know the place very well... I don't actually. It's been over 10 years since I moved away and despite visiting at least once a year, HK changes so quickly that within 12 months, 20 new buildings would have popped up, half the stores I know would have moved or shut down and new restaurants would have taken over hot spots I didn't know existed. (Note: all images can be enlarged by clicking on them).

The Hong Kong skyline (and Kowloon across the harbor) as seen from The Peak. Most of the high rises are actually residential.

It's fast paced, modern, busy, crowded, overpopulated and has happily embraced a Western look. But at the same time it also remains traditionally Chinese - a cultural diversity stemming from its history as a former British colony that has since gone back to China. It is essentially still an island... or a cluster of 236 islands to be precise, which means that beyond the expansive skyline, you'll find beaches, country parks, nature reserves and reservoir lakes. What does break my heart though is the rising pollution (a result of fumes from factories in China) most evident by the smog that blankets the skyline on most days, and the reclamation of land from the harbor to make way for new building sites.

Hong Kong Island's hazy skyline as seen from Kowloon.

A few of the landmark skyscrapers, incl. Bank of China (top left), Lippo Centre (lower left), HSBC (lower middle), the IFC (lower right) and residential high rises of the Mid Levels as seen from Hong Kong Park (top right).

Land being reclaimed from the harbor. The construction site used to be all water... the shore of the harbor used to stretch right up to the buildings.

View of downtown Central - Hong Kong's business district and home to plenty of shops of course.

A few remaining colonial style building, though the tea museum (left) is a replica. Right: the Court of Final Appeal.

The cheapest and easiest way to cross the harbor is to take the iconic Star Ferry (top). Occasionally you'll see a lone junk or dinghy in the waters as well.

One of Hong Kong's many beaches. Here: Repulse Bay. And yes, I realize that name doesn't sound enticing, but the beach is pretty.

A Chinese temple near the beach.

Cheung Chau Island, a former fishing village and still renowned for its great seafood can be reached easily from Hong Kong via a ferry. Here a few of the fishing boats along the pier.

The rugged shore of Cheung Chau and some of its hiking trails.

You are never alone.... bustling crowds and a mix of old and new buildings in Causeway Bay's shopping area.

No visit would be complete without eating Dim Sum (the dish on the lower left is rice & chicken in a lotus leaf).

Aside from being a financial hub, many people associate Hong Kong with being a great place to shop. It is... and it isn't. The city's shopping scene is slightly bizarre to those who've never been to big Asian cities (or Dubai). Very much a mall culture where real estate is precious, few shops or even department stores can afford to be housed on street level, making multi-storey shopping centers a common sight. Big name luxury brands are the most prominent, with excessive branding visible wherever you go. Despite the fact that locals were once obsessed with anything adorned with a big Chanel or Dior logo, they have since embraced less glitzy labels, whether it's A.P.C., Comme des Garçons or Tsumori Chisato.

Forget The Gap and food courts... shopping center 'The Landmark' is filled with every designer boutique imaginable, whether it's Balenciaga, Stella McCartney or TOD's (above left). It even houses a Harvey Nichols (lower left) and a Michelin-star restaurant courtesy of Joel Robuchun, if you do get hungry.

Unfortunately none of the Western and Japanese brands are cheap here, with items retailing for up to double the price of what they are in Europe or the U.S. Even though sales were on, discounted items were more expensive there than their full-priced counterparts in Paris. One explanation is the money flowing in from visiting mainland Chinese who can't get such products in their own country and happily pay any price requested for the coveted designer brands. Even the more obscure designers such as Margiela, Isabel Marant or Ann Demeulemeester have standalone flagships in Hong Kong... which might seem strange considering the latter two don't even have boutiques in London or NYC. Needless to say, the big brands are still available in abundance: there are at least a dozen Burberry stores in HK... London has four; Prada has 10 boutiques on the island... Milan only five. Even my beloved Lanvin is represented three times, whereas Paris only has the one flagship. Crazy? Perhaps. But they're all well frequented.

This is only a fraction of the branding visible throughout the city. These are not adverts... they are actual storefronts, with large logos emblazoned on mulit-storey buildings. The Chanel one is particularly blatant, as the logo appears on a bright LCD screen.

Nonetheless, local and indie brands are there if you look close enough (or keep reading this blog). Smaller shops are scattered around Central's Soho area, Causeway Bay or the busy streets throughout Kowloon... and for something cheaper, you can always head to one of the bustling markets.

Another shot of Hong Kong from above. Slightly different from the image at the very top, this one also shows the stretch of harbor towards Wanchai and Causeway Bay.

Leam (Rome, Italy)

Getting your designer fix in Rome isn't really difficult, especially if it's Italian brands you're after. I was directed to head to Leam thanks to a fellow blogger (the lovely fglovesbags) and unlike most boutiques, this one has an extensive range of labels you probably won't find elsewhere in the city. What makes it even more worth visiting is the fact that we're not talking about one store, but five in total: Leam Donna, Leam Uomo, Leam Limited, Baby Leam and Leam Outlet. This post will cover the main Leam women's boutique, Leam Limited (a slightly cooler women's section) and the outlet division.

Starting with the main store, you could be mistaken into thinking Prada and Cavalli is all you'll find here. To be honest, that thought crossed my mind at first and browsing the shoes didn't reveal anything special. Moving on to the bags, I started getting nervous (where were the Balenciaga bags... where??), lots of Fendi - the last thing I needed after visiting the Palazzo - more Prada and too much Gucci. All logo-ed, all very bling and all incredibly colorful. The store design was what kept me going though: I loved the way the mannequins were placed throughout the boutique and having a mezzanine between the two levels gave the whole area a more interesting structure.

Having passed the mezzanine (more Fendi bags), I got to the second level which is where I found a very sizable selection of this season's ready-to-wear. I was pleasantly surprised to find other brands as well: Diane von Furstenberg dresses and tunics occupied one entire rack and there was a good range of Marni on the other side of the room. Missoni, Pucci and Dior were all represented in addition to Miu Miu, Valentino and any other big name you can think of. Definitely your one-stop place for all that is luxury fashion.

By contrast, Leam Limited, situated right next door, doesn't scream opulence, though the goods found here are equally expensive. The shiny modern hallway leading to the front door is lined with mannequins while the interior is striking in its cool minimalism: instead of comfy sofas, you'll find big rocks to sit on from where you can enjoy whatever the two video projectors happen to be displaying on the back walls.

The slightly elevated floor in the middle would have reminded me of a boxing ring if it hadn't been for the very artistic-looking red shelf snaking its way across this area. The collection here consisted mainly of Balenciaga (including 2 current-season bags I saw for the first time in person), Issa, Luella and Yohji Yamamoto, as well as items from more local design talents such as Ermano Scervino and Cesare Paciotti.

(images: 2tr architettura)

Of course none of the products sold come cheap, so Leam was clever enough to set up a standalone outlet store across the street. And I must say, this is probably one of the tidiest shops of its kind. Items are clearly labelled and categorized by garment or accessory type, starting with jackets and dresses in the front and continuing with jeans, tops, shoes, trousers, skirts and blouses towards the back. This is also where you'll find last-season shoes and bags.

I sighted Balenciaga jackets and ankle boots, beautiful Chloé dresses and Mulberry bags - from 40-70% off. Everything was in top shape and a lot actually came in 'normal' sizes. Menswear and items for children/babies can be found in the basement. The only negative thing: if you're shorter than 5'9" you might have trouble accessing the clothes on the upper rack.

So there you go: three very individual stores called Leam and all worth visiting for slightly different reasons.

Address: Via Appia Nuova 30-32, 00183 Rome
Via Faenza 10-12, 00182 Rome (Leam Outlet)
Leam Homepage

Fendi Boutique / Palazzo Fendi (Rome, Italy)

Overshadowed by Milan when it comes to ready-to-wear, one tends to forget the role Rome has played in the fashion world. The birthplace of Italian Couture, thanks mainly to Valentino who opened his first store in the nation's capital, Rome is also the origin of another luxury giant: Fendi. I probably wouldn't have remembered this if I hadn't passed the company's relatively new Fendi boutique and global headquarters, aptly named Palazzo Fendi... for it is in fact palatial and very difficult to miss.

I have slightly mixed feelings towards any brand that has marketed both its monogrammed and single logo to death (that includes LV and Gucci) - you would have thought that back in 1966 someone like Lagerfeld would have had the foresight to know that his double-F 'Zucca' creation would end up on knock-offs all over the world. Nevertheless I tend to forgive both him and the other aforementioned logo-brands by shutting my eyes when walking through the handbag section and admiring the amazingly crafted clothes instead.

Though Fendi is probably more famous for its 'It'-bags, especially the Baguette, the company, originally founded in 1918 by Adele Casagrande, started out as a fur and leather speciality shop and still masters this skill to this day. When entering the huge flagship (it takes up an entire block), leather is probably the first thing you'll notice, as you'll be greeted by an entire floor of leather bags and accessories (and the occasional canvas logo thing I'll choose to ignore). Fortunately most of this season's bags are relatively tame and more classic than what Fendi sometimes produces (remember the bag you could paint yourself?). And thankfully as Karl isn't in charge of bag designs, I won't have to blame him for any of the few odd creations I found.

Although I didn't spend too much time in this section, I did spare a few minutes more in the adjoining shoe department. And despite finding the occasional logo-ed boot or heel, I also sighted some really pretty strappy sandals and cool shoe boots. The footwear area lead right into a bright hallway showcasing a few mannequins wearing this season's clothes with a video projection of the runway shoes running in the background. The stairway leading up to the 1st floor is impressive and again reminded me of being in a Palazzo: it consisted of dark carved wood, a massive chandelier and a sky roof at the very top. In designing the interior, Peter Marino was obviously trying to channel traditional Roman architecture (including his use of local travertine and San Pietrini stones) which contrasted nicely with the modern fluid lines found throughout the rest of the boutique.

A fair warning to animal lovers: while leather accessories might not make you queasy, the 2nd floor fur section could send you running for the nearest exit. Though I'm indifferent to fur in general, seeing the rows and rows of different colored mink, chinchilla and sable stoles, jackets and coats that took up about half the floorspace was a bit of an overdose. I must admit that on its own they probably would have looked divine (and not to heavy or grandmotherly), especially the stole with fur shaped into little roses. What I did find unnecessary though was the white fur buggy. I don't see how it can ever get that cold in Rome and most of the fur seemed to be in places that wouldn't keep a child warm anyway - what a waste (of an animal's life no less).

On to the more fun stuff though... the vast clothing section that took up the remaining floor is truly worth looking at. This season's laser-cut and intricate embroidery (broderie anglaise) is even more striking in person and Lagerfeld's beautiful sheer layered dresses and skirts are like works of art. Even though I'm not going to be getting any Fendi outfits anytime soon, the standout pieces for me were the dresses with silk applique roses and the 3-tiered layered bell-shaped skirts. There were a few more bags on this floor as well, but the clothes are what you need to be looking at.

Even if you're not a Fendi fan, I'd say this flagship is worth a visit just for the building's architectural elements alone. And if you are a Fend lover, you might want to go sightseeing first, as you'll likely spend half a day here.

Address: Largo Carlo Goldoni 419-421, 00187 Rome
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sun: 10:30-19:00
Fendi Homepage