Showing posts with label Rodarte. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Rodarte. Show all posts

Rodarte @ Colette (Paris, France)


rodarte colette
I just realized that this post is probably more in line with Halloween than my last, but for those who are still relishing all that is spooky and a little macabre, this should hopefully keep you happy until next year's festivities. And who better to host something a little different than Colette - one of those stores I have a bit of a love-hate relationship with. Like most designer concept stores, I've always found this one to be a little pretentious and while the displays are interesting enough, I've often perceived the in-store layout to be a bit messy and overly artsy in the way they try to display clothing. What Colette is good at though, is getting well established designers, artists, authors and anyone else remotely interesting or famous to collaborate with them, resulting in unique pop-up stores and/or exhibitions. In the past, I've featured their Barbie anniversary, as well as The Selby exhibition. This time around, they've decided to work with the Mulleavy sisters by celebrating their 10th collection, which involves an exhibit curated by the designers showcasing "artists who reveal the nostalgic qualities apparent in pop culture". In addition, the corner below the gallery features exclusive Rodarte items, their recent Opening Ceremony collaboration, a selection from the FW09 collection, as well as a whole range of other pieces designed by friends of Rodarte.

rodarte coletteOverview of the pop-up store (left) and the exhibition (right).

The area reserved for Colette's monthly special guest can usually be found towards the back of the first floor. The annoying thing about a store that has the power to host various collaborations and other events, is that things tend to go a little overboard. Around the same time the Rodarte tribute was going on, Colette was also paying an homage to Natasha Poly, so snapshots of hers could be found strewn all over the same floor as well, along with special Natasha products, such as dolls and books. Meanwhile some of Rodarte's inspirational shots (prints from Autumn de Wilde and David Sherry) could already be found near the stairs and it took me a few minutes to realize this even belonged to the Rodarte collaboration.

rodarte coletteFrom top left: Rodarte Living Dead Dolls, city postcards with eyes by Patrick Li, Rodarte limited edition doll, a paper party hat.

rodarte coletteSome of Rodarte's favorite movies and CDs, as well as an inspiration wall.

Nevertheless, once you get to the two storey space dedicated to the California designers, there's no mistaking you've come to the right place to catch a glimpse of Rodarte's inspiration and creative process. The special shop features everything from DVDs of epic horror movies and favorite CDs or books to special edition postcards by Patrick Li or jewelry by Mark Walsh & Leslie Chin. Some of the more interesting items included the Rodarte doll or if you prefer something a little scarier, you can also pick out one of the special Living Dead Dolls on display.

rodarte coletteOverview of one of the store walls covered in zombie-like prints (top, image: Colette). Pillowcases by Miranda July (left) and Opening Ceremony totes (right).

The Rodarte x Opening Ceremony pieces were worth looking at as well... this included lunchboxes, a Kurt Cobain t-shirt, notebooks and a whole range of eco-friendly bags. If you prefer something along the lines of shoes, there's always Kirkwood's thigh-high boot or for something a little more low key, Repetto has created a limited edition Rodarte ballerina.

rodarte coletteTop: Overview of the area featuring the Rodarte FW09 collection. Repetto x Rodarte ballerinas (lower left) and a Rodarte FW09 cardigan (right).

Of course Rodarte's own FW09 range was heavily featured as well. From what I could tell, a few dresses, cardigans and skirts were piled up on a shelf and hung from a rack at the far end of the room. Because of the steep pricing, no one was really buying these, but it was still interesting to browse considering Rodarte isn't that easily available in Europe. For slightly more affordable items, the Mulleavys also created several special edition collections such as the 'I love/hate Rodarte' sweaters and tees or a range of quirky necklaces.

rodarte coletteSome very cool jewelry by Mark Walsh & Leslie Chin (left) and necklaces by Rodarte (right).

The only thing more expensive than the FW09 pieces were the porcelain sets from KPM, some of which came with a porcelain gun to match the saucers and tea cups. If these had been cheaper, I'm sure they would have made a great gift for your conservative aunt or grandmother, but alas, I doubt most people have that kind of money to spend on a crazy gift item.

rodarte coletteOverview of the book section (left). Fancy a gun with your tea? KSM porcelain set (right).

The walls of this section were covered in de Wilde and Sherry prints that partially inspired Rodarte's current season collections, but for more art, you need to head up the stairs to the gallery area. Alexandre de Betak created a mini installation that featured the Rodarte runway shows, while works from various other artists such as Karen Kilimnik, Ari Marcopoulos or Kim Gordon (of Sonic Youth fame) hung from the nearby walls.

rodarte coletteAlexandre de Betak installation in a glass bubble (left). 'Love' neon sign by Alexandra Gant (top right) and a beautiful glittery piece by Karen Kilimnik (lower right).

rodarte coletteOverview of part of the exhibition (top, image: Colette). Notebooks and photographs by Dave Armstrong (lower left). 'Mom as Medusa' by Helliott Hundley (right).

There were also two big piles of poster-sized typed letters on the floor. I have no idea what they were supposed to be, but reading through them, I had the impression they were written by an over-eager fan or borderline stalker (these letters weren't directed at the Mulleavys but a girl living in Paris). This might explain why a few feet away I sighted the somewhat dangerous looking 'Evil Bat' - the coolest self-defence weapon I've ever seen.

rodarte coletteFrom top left: 'Zombie Arrow' by Autumn de Wilde, 'Bats' by Annakim Violette, strange stalker letters you could take with you as a souvenir, various prints by Dave Sherry, works by Kim Gordon and Ari Marcopoulos.

rodarte coletteLeft: 'No Title' by Raymond Pettibon. Right: The incredibly studded 'Evil Bat' by Marc Kroop.

I tend to skip some of Colette's collaborations, but this was definitely one of the better ones and a must if you're a fan or admirer of Rodarte. The designers are pretty open when it comes to sharing their inspirations (take a look at their homepage for more), but seeing their clothes hang side-by-side with zombie-like artworks and porcelain guns does put a different twist on things and also gives a little insight into their slightly quirky sense of humor. This exhibition is on until November 7, so if you're in town, I'd go and check it out. If you're not in Paris, don't despair: you can still buy all these special Rodarte items and some of the prints via Colette's online store.

rodarte coletteA selection of more special Rodarte items from Colette's onilne store. From top left; Rodarte FW09 knit dress, Opening Ceremony lunchbox, Miranda July pillowcase, Rodarte x Colette buttons, Rodarte x Colette sweater, Rodarte necklace (individual images: Colette).

Address: 213 rue Saint-Honoré, 75001 Paris
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 11:00-19:00

Colette Homepage & Online Shop

Dover Street Market (London, UK)



Imagine Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Alber Elbaz, Rodarte's Mulleavy sisters and a slew of other incredible designers were to move into a large 5 storey apartment together and you might get an inkling of what the interior of Dover Street Market looks like. Unlike any other multi-brand or concept store out there, this little emporium doesn't just stick to one design. Kawakubo, the creative force behind this store sums it up best with the following quote: "I want to create a kind of market where various creators from various fields gather together and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos: the mixing up and coming together of different kindred souls who all share a strong personal vision."

If you've been to DSM, you'll know what she's talking about. If not, let's just say that this store is unlike anything you will have seen before. Dare I say it makes any other concept store (yes, even Colette in Paris) look pretty basic. This is the kind of place I wish I would 'accidentally' get locked in after opening hours. Because Kawakubo is behind it, you will get your fair dose of Comme des Garçons items... probably one of the biggest selections available. But it's so much more than that. Not only is every floor completely different in design, music, atmosphere and staff attire, but every section on each floor has a different vibe as well. You get your colorful Lanvin corner, stark minimalist Ann Demeulemeester section, clean elegant Alaïa area, not to mention the so-called 'Garden Space', the Chinese inspired shoe boudoir or the tribal infused area on the second floor.

Odd objects, including tiger head, plastic human head + selection of eyeballs & open human torsos. Not for sale... I asked.


And scattered throughout you'll see somewhat surreal items displayed in glass cases: taxidermied tiger heads, various animal skulls or fossils and the top floor showcased a few plastic models of the human anatomy. Very odd, very cool, very Rei. I realize this post might get overly long, so I will try to keep it verbally short and rely on images to convey the atmosphere. I'll also divide this post into the different floors to give a better overview.

Ground Floor

The DSM Hut in the background sells books/magazines. Towards the front: perfume tower & jewelry cases (image: DSM).

Left: New CdG arrivals and Junya Watanabe items in big wooden boxes. Right: animal skulls and other odd objects in glass cases.

Left: CdG Homme in weird orange construction... yes, that's a mannequin perched up there. Right: DSM polka-dot hut features some CdG Play pieces and DSM exclusive items.

Summary: Bizarre, industrial yet somewhat coherent in design, probably because most of the range was CdG. Jewelry included items from CdG and Ann Demeulemeester. Lots of staff (around 5-6), though half might have been security. And take the stairs... the lifts take ages to arrive.

First Floor

That hut on the right is actually the cash desk (image: DSM).

Left: more CdG. Right:CdG and Margiela

Left: I have no idea what that thing is. Probably a rabbit with a headlamp CdG Shirt section in the glass room.

Left: the Ann Demeulemeester room. Right: Azzedine Alaïa section

Summary: Industrial meets streetwear cool meets designer flagship elegance. Only one staff member, which made browsing quite relaxing. There were a few taxidermied tiger heads near a rack with Haider Ackermann pieces. The Alaïa section also included the entire range of footwear. Very tempting. Very dangerous.

Second Floor

Left: World Archive section included traditional costumes, masks, woven fabric and other artifacts from Africa & Asia. Right: TAO CdG.

Left: Garden Room featuring collections from Daniela Gregis, Charles Anastase and more World Archive. Right: DSM Shoe Space with an impressive range of Nicholas Kirkwood, Pierre Hardy and Givenchy footwear.

Complete view of the DSM Shoe Space with its Chinese-inspired decor (image: DSM)

Summary: Probably the strangest floor with its mix of tribal, CdG minimalism, Summer garden and Chinese boudoir. Around five staff members who were very attentive. Offered to bring me all the Kirkwood shoes in my size. I showed great restraint by declining the offer.

Third Floor

Lanvin in the background and towards the front: Stephen Jones hats draped on neon branches (image: DSM).

Left: Givenchy. Right: Hussein Chalayan RTW, Judy Blame accessories

Left: Gilded birdcage changing room in the CdG section. Right: TAO CdG

Summary: This area held my favorite CdG items (mostly in black) and some incredible TAO pieces. This floor had the most designer variety with collections by Gareth Pugh, Christopher Kane, Nina Ricci and Rodarte to name a few. Not quite pictured is the bed of black chiffon roses in front of the birdcage changing room.

Fourth Floor

Left: Artisanal hardware and kitchen utensils from "Labour and Wait". Right: CdG Play

Right: More CdG Play. Right: Pokit bags, Toga Archives and CdG Tricot

Rose Bakery with a nice view over Mayfair (image: DSM)

Summary: Like the ground floor, this level was more coherent in design (again, due to a predominantly CdG range) and probably one of the more 'normal' floors, considering everything was furnished in light wood. The only odd items, were the model of a head and plastic anatomical parts of the human body which were housed in glass cases (see top image).

Lower Level

John Galliano section (image: DSM)

Left: Eve Democracy. Right: Salvatore Ferragamo

Left: Partial overview of the streetwear section. Right: Billinoare Boys Club, Supreme

Summary: This floor had the smallest selection of women's clothing with menswear - in particular streetwear - dominating the area. Specific brands had their own selection housed either in caged spaces or huts, though none of them were as odd or deconstructed as the ones on previous floors. Staff were dressed in appropriate attire, i.e. if you didn't know better you'd think they were members of a hip hop band.

This is probably one of the most innovative retail spaces out there at the moment. If you're a fan of avant-garde or hard-to-find designer fashion, DSM is a must. I love coming here, just because it's such a nice change from your average glitzy flagship or overwhelmingly big department store. Occassionally DSM will also host art installations or special exhibitions. To quote Rei Kawakubo again: "We hope to make DSM more and more interesting. I enjoy seeing all the customers coming to DSM dressed in their strong, good looking and individual way. I would like for DSM to be the place where fashion becomes fascinating." I can guarantee that Kawakubo has definitely succeeded in that.

Address: 17-18 Dover Street, London W1s 4LT
Opening Hrs: Mon-Wed: 11:00-18:00, Thu-Sat: 11:00-19:00

Dover Street Market Homepage and Online Shop