Dover Street Market (London, UK)

Imagine Rei Kawakubo, Martin Margiela, Ann Demeulemeester, Alber Elbaz, Rodarte's Mulleavy sisters and a slew of other incredible designers were to move into a large 5 storey apartment together and you might get an inkling of what the interior of Dover Street Market looks like. Unlike any other multi-brand or concept store out there, this little emporium doesn't just stick to one design. Kawakubo, the creative force behind this store sums it up best with the following quote: "I want to create a kind of market where various creators from various fields gather together and encounter each other in an ongoing atmosphere of beautiful chaos: the mixing up and coming together of different kindred souls who all share a strong personal vision."

If you've been to DSM, you'll know what she's talking about. If not, let's just say that this store is unlike anything you will have seen before. Dare I say it makes any other concept store (yes, even Colette in Paris) look pretty basic. This is the kind of place I wish I would 'accidentally' get locked in after opening hours. Because Kawakubo is behind it, you will get your fair dose of Comme des Garçons items... probably one of the biggest selections available. But it's so much more than that. Not only is every floor completely different in design, music, atmosphere and staff attire, but every section on each floor has a different vibe as well. You get your colorful Lanvin corner, stark minimalist Ann Demeulemeester section, clean elegant Alaïa area, not to mention the so-called 'Garden Space', the Chinese inspired shoe boudoir or the tribal infused area on the second floor.

Odd objects, including tiger head, plastic human head + selection of eyeballs & open human torsos. Not for sale... I asked.

And scattered throughout you'll see somewhat surreal items displayed in glass cases: taxidermied tiger heads, various animal skulls or fossils and the top floor showcased a few plastic models of the human anatomy. Very odd, very cool, very Rei. I realize this post might get overly long, so I will try to keep it verbally short and rely on images to convey the atmosphere. I'll also divide this post into the different floors to give a better overview.

Ground Floor

The DSM Hut in the background sells books/magazines. Towards the front: perfume tower & jewelry cases (image: DSM).

Left: New CdG arrivals and Junya Watanabe items in big wooden boxes. Right: animal skulls and other odd objects in glass cases.

Left: CdG Homme in weird orange construction... yes, that's a mannequin perched up there. Right: DSM polka-dot hut features some CdG Play pieces and DSM exclusive items.

Summary: Bizarre, industrial yet somewhat coherent in design, probably because most of the range was CdG. Jewelry included items from CdG and Ann Demeulemeester. Lots of staff (around 5-6), though half might have been security. And take the stairs... the lifts take ages to arrive.

First Floor

That hut on the right is actually the cash desk (image: DSM).

Left: more CdG. Right:CdG and Margiela

Left: I have no idea what that thing is. Probably a rabbit with a headlamp CdG Shirt section in the glass room.

Left: the Ann Demeulemeester room. Right: Azzedine Alaïa section

Summary: Industrial meets streetwear cool meets designer flagship elegance. Only one staff member, which made browsing quite relaxing. There were a few taxidermied tiger heads near a rack with Haider Ackermann pieces. The Alaïa section also included the entire range of footwear. Very tempting. Very dangerous.

Second Floor

Left: World Archive section included traditional costumes, masks, woven fabric and other artifacts from Africa & Asia. Right: TAO CdG.

Left: Garden Room featuring collections from Daniela Gregis, Charles Anastase and more World Archive. Right: DSM Shoe Space with an impressive range of Nicholas Kirkwood, Pierre Hardy and Givenchy footwear.

Complete view of the DSM Shoe Space with its Chinese-inspired decor (image: DSM)

Summary: Probably the strangest floor with its mix of tribal, CdG minimalism, Summer garden and Chinese boudoir. Around five staff members who were very attentive. Offered to bring me all the Kirkwood shoes in my size. I showed great restraint by declining the offer.

Third Floor

Lanvin in the background and towards the front: Stephen Jones hats draped on neon branches (image: DSM).

Left: Givenchy. Right: Hussein Chalayan RTW, Judy Blame accessories

Left: Gilded birdcage changing room in the CdG section. Right: TAO CdG

Summary: This area held my favorite CdG items (mostly in black) and some incredible TAO pieces. This floor had the most designer variety with collections by Gareth Pugh, Christopher Kane, Nina Ricci and Rodarte to name a few. Not quite pictured is the bed of black chiffon roses in front of the birdcage changing room.

Fourth Floor

Left: Artisanal hardware and kitchen utensils from "Labour and Wait". Right: CdG Play

Right: More CdG Play. Right: Pokit bags, Toga Archives and CdG Tricot

Rose Bakery with a nice view over Mayfair (image: DSM)

Summary: Like the ground floor, this level was more coherent in design (again, due to a predominantly CdG range) and probably one of the more 'normal' floors, considering everything was furnished in light wood. The only odd items, were the model of a head and plastic anatomical parts of the human body which were housed in glass cases (see top image).

Lower Level

John Galliano section (image: DSM)

Left: Eve Democracy. Right: Salvatore Ferragamo

Left: Partial overview of the streetwear section. Right: Billinoare Boys Club, Supreme

Summary: This floor had the smallest selection of women's clothing with menswear - in particular streetwear - dominating the area. Specific brands had their own selection housed either in caged spaces or huts, though none of them were as odd or deconstructed as the ones on previous floors. Staff were dressed in appropriate attire, i.e. if you didn't know better you'd think they were members of a hip hop band.

This is probably one of the most innovative retail spaces out there at the moment. If you're a fan of avant-garde or hard-to-find designer fashion, DSM is a must. I love coming here, just because it's such a nice change from your average glitzy flagship or overwhelmingly big department store. Occassionally DSM will also host art installations or special exhibitions. To quote Rei Kawakubo again: "We hope to make DSM more and more interesting. I enjoy seeing all the customers coming to DSM dressed in their strong, good looking and individual way. I would like for DSM to be the place where fashion becomes fascinating." I can guarantee that Kawakubo has definitely succeeded in that.

Address: 17-18 Dover Street, London W1s 4LT
Opening Hrs: Mon-Wed: 11:00-18:00, Thu-Sat: 11:00-19:00
Dover Street Market Homepage and Online Shop