Haute World: Jil Sander

Jil Sander is probably Germany's most internationally successful fashion export and because the label originated in Hamburg (Jil Sander herself still resides here), I thought it appropriate to profile this boutique. Sander opened her first store in 1967 in the Milchstraße, a quiet somewhat upscale residential neighborhood near Hamburg's outer lake. Five years later, she started selling her own collection of clothes there, alongside those of established big designers. The signature Sander look consisted mainly of separates such as white blouses, black blazers, cashmere cardigans and simple coats. Even though Sander has since left the company, it is this minimalist style that to this day defines every Jil Sander collection.

SS09 RTW Collection (images: Jil Sander Homepage)

Back when Sander was still in charge, it was said that she was such a perfectionist, everything from the store design to the sales staff's standing position was dictated by the designer herself. I'm guessing that this is no longer the case - I'd have a hard time believing that Raf Simons draws up position charts, but nevertheless, the stores still have an undeniable Sander feel.

I rarely feel intimidated when I visit designer flagships, but I must say that the store's minimalist design (which was the ideal backdrop for the clothes and accessories) actually made me hesitate when entering the boutique. It also didn't help that three SA's jumped up from where they were seated when my friend and I walked in or that the flagship was completely empty except for the two security guards and the five sales people. Yes, we were greatly outnumbered. One SA was kind enough to give us specific instructions as to where to find everything - menswear on the right, women's clothing everywhere else, shoes on the far left etc. - but considering the store's spartan interior, it was pretty hard to miss the products on display.

I do think the shop rarely gets that many visitors though (which explains the sales team's enthusiasm), so I decided to be extra thorough when looking at the clothes and accessories. Not that I needed motivation - I've always been a JS fan and love simple pieces you can either wear plain or accessorize the hell out of. I was particularly fond of the current season's fringed items, such as the black dresses and clutches. And while I was aware that Jil Sander also produces shoes and bags, it was only now that I actually gave them my full attention. I was pleasantly surprised by the cool ultra-high platforms or the bright soft slouchy bags.

Needless to say the majority of the pieces were mainly black or white, but I did find a rack with bright purple knits and basics, along with a few pastel colored dresses. The store itself is very very white and barely furnished except for a few chairs, one couch near the shoe area and a big table close to the entrance. This is by no means the biggest or oldest flagship (ironically that one's in my current hometown Paris) but I think it represents the Jil Sander look perfectly.

Luckily my initial intimidation quickly subsided and I must say the staff are very friendly, so I did quite enjoy seeing the Summer collection in person. If you're ever near a JS store and it's empty, don't worry about going in to take a quick browse - photos in magazines don't do the cut and fabric of the clothes justice. You might want to bring a friend though, just so you're not all alone...

(individual images: Browns, Net-a-Porter)

Address: Neuer Wall 43, 20459 Hamburg
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-19:00
Jil Sander Homepage

I am going to start off by saying that this place is probably one of the most beautiful urban areas you'll find in the world. While Berlin only gradually grew on me (right after Germany's unification it resembled one big construction site and before that it just wasn't that interesting), I instantly fell in love with Hamburg the first time I visited. I lived here for two years and it's the one place I truly regret not having spent more time in, which is why I make the effort to return whenever I can.

Rathaus / Town Hall

Hamburg is Germany's second-largest city (after Berlin) and like the nation's capital, it's a city-state that's marked with contrasts. Blessed with the two beautiful 'Alster' lakes in the city center, it also has a large harbor and so many canals that to this day, it's still the city with the most bridges in the world (2300 in total - more than what Amsterdam and Venice have combined). You'll find impressive old warehouses in the 'Speicherstadt', stunning houses and mansions belonging to the rich upper-class, many yachts and sailboats parked around the docks and large avenues filled with high-end shops and boutiques.

One of Hamburg's many canals and bridges off the 'Aussenalster' Lake

Alsterarkaden near Jungfernstieg

At the same time, Hamburg also has a very impressive alternative and indie scene. Towards St. Pauli you'll find the Schanzen- and Karoviertel filled with smaller cafes, clubs, vintage shops and old cinemas catering to artists, musicians and students. This area is also home to Europe's largest red-light-district around the Reeperbahn, which has become so touristy, that you'll find just as many bars, restaurants and clubs attracting anyone from teenagers to pensioners (currently the Mamma Mia musical is showing here) as you will the usual sex and strip club haunts.

Grosse Freiheit in the red-light district off the Reeperbahn

In any case, if you love to shop, Hamburg is the ideal place to do so. Most might associate hip fashion with Berlin, but let's not forget that Hamburg gave us Karl Lagerfeld, who was born and raised here, as well as Jil Sander. Because of its proximity to Scandinavia, many local independent designers will favor a more retro vintagey style and you'll find a great selection of Danish and Swedish labels in smaller boutiques.

Whatever you do, don't just go to Berlin if you're ever in Germany (or Europe for that matter), because you'll be missing out on one of the most amazing cities I've ever been to.