Closed (Hamburg, Germany)

Here's just a quick addendum to my Hamburg trip I thought was worth posting. Because the city is more famous for designer goods on the one end, or vintage and independent clothing on the other, I wanted to highlight a Hamburg brand that doesn't belong to any of these categories. Though Closed was originally founded in Italy in 1978, it was three business partners that took over the company in the 80's and opened up the global headquarters in Hamburg's upscale Eppendorf area, thus creating a trendy German basics label.

Closed Spring '09 collection (images: Closed)

Closed can be considered the nation's answer to Replay or A.P.C. and like many brands, it's roots lie in producing jeans. The classic Pedal Pusher was the first jeans style that made the brand popular, but these days you'll find a large number of other denim collections to choose from. As with most initially unknown brands, Closed was also subsequently discovered by celebrities and everyone from Sarah Jessica Parker to Katie Holmes has been spotted wearing the brand's comfortable jeans.

left: SJP and Katie Holmes wearing Closed jeans, right: the Jeans machine

Most recently, the label started making headlines by developing the world's first ever vending machine for jeans, aptly named 'The Magnificent Jeans Machine', which was introduced during this year's Berlin Fashion Week. Currently the prototype is still on tour, but the idea is to actually produce more machines and place them in train stations or airports, so consumers in need of a quick denim fix can quickly purchase the product without having to go to a store. I have no idea if this will be a success - I personally need to try jeans on, even if it's a brand or style I already own, but I know a lot of people who don't, so who knows? At the very least this will definitely be a PR boost for the company.

But hype and marketing aside, Closed is essentially a high-end retail brand specializing in sophisticated casual wear. The designs are simple, but there's a lot of attention to detail and the aim is to produce comfortable, wearable clothes with an innovative twist, either with regard to material or cut. When I visited the flagship in downtown Hamburg this time around, the first thing I noticed were the bright colors. Tables displayed a wide array of vibrant knitwear in the softest materials, very suitable for Spring and chillier Summer weather.

As with most basic stores, this one was well laid out, with the entire jeans section towards the back and big tables displaying tops and cardigans near the entrance. Because of the wooden floors and simple decor, which resembled home furnishings more than it did retail props, the feeling I got was more like browsing someone's very busy living room than hanging out in a boutique. I found quite a few patterned and more hippie styled tops and scarves, such as the blue Lanvin inspired dress featured in the ad campaign above or the vest in the collage below. Rest assured that not all items are your typical basic gear, as they do stock a lot of pretty dresses and funkier tops.

One thing I noticed was that their shoe selection has grown drastically. While they still stock a small selection of other brands (such as UGG), they had their own range of strappy sandals, wedge heels and fringed ankle boots.

The staff are helpful and if you need any advice when it comes to the various jeans styles, cuts and colors, they'll be happy to help. Like most labels, Closed have jumped on the bandwagon creating clothes that reflect this season's hottest trends, including heavily bleached jeans and colorful jumpsuits. While the materials used are usually cotton, wool, cashmere or even alpaca, there are a few sheer blouses and silk tops or dresses to choose from. I spied a beautiful pale ruffled tank top in a light chiffon material that would make a very versatile Summer staple.

The good news is that Closed has an online shop that ships worldwide, so take a look if you need some great well-made basics. Yoox also stocks last season's stock and if you're near one of the stores (they have several outside Germany and their range is available in various department stores), I can definitely recommend a visit. Otherwise, you'll just have to wait for that vending machine to hit a train station near you...

(individual images: Closed online shop)

Address: Bergstraße 11, 20095 Hamburg
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-20:00
Closed Homepage and Online Shop

Nuts & Pearls (Hamburg, Germany)

I rarely post about jewelry stores - not because I don't like them. But as I acquire the majority of my jewelry online or in places such as Topshop and H&M, I don't often come across independent boutiques where I find almost every item so tempting I want to buy everything I see. Nuts & Pearls is such a shop. I first found this place 4 years ago and knew I had to come back to profile it for my blog. What makes N&P a great place for jewelry lovers is that the designers use vintage materials to design unique pieces and if you have something special in mind, they'll be happy to customize or create an individual item for you.

Part of Nuts & Pearl's style book (images: N&P homepage)

N&P was founded in 2003 by Natalie von Matt, a former advertising executive, who's nickname 'Nut" - in the German language pronounced 'Nat'- inspired the company's name. She opened her workshop and store in Hamburg's Karolinenviertel two years later, which is still the primary retail space for her designs. All items are handmade by her or her business partner and the main source for materials are vintage beads which can be up to 60-80 years old. Though von Matt is aware that antique pearls can fetch horrifically high prices on the market these days, her priority is to find individual beads that are beautiful, have a story to tell or come from far away places. Flea markets, auctions and countries abroad are just a few of the places she scours for one-of-a-kind elements she can use for her creations.

(images: Nuts & Pearls homepage)

When I last visited the store, I remembered seeing a huge selection of very cool charm pendants with designs ranging from skulls carved out of rose quartz to enameled butterflies. These pendants can be used on necklace chains, belts, handbags and keychains. I was glad to see that N&P still had an extensive range of these charms, though this time around, a lot of them included crosses, baby dolls and goldfish.

The shop is small, but everything is neatly arranged, with necklaces hanging from mannequin busts along the exposed brick wall or from smaller steel racks. The center table displayed an assortment of colorful friendship bracelets adorned with semi-precious stones or charms made of 925 sterling silver. In fact, most jewelry contains either silver, brass or even 18-carat gold.

The style of the pieces as described by the designer herself is delicate, baroque, opulent, precious and playful. Basically you'll find jewelry to suit any taste, whether it's a Victorian-style brooch or art-deco inspired earrings. Even though materials are vintage, the jewelry doesn't necessarily look antique and while many pieces have a romantic feel, certain elements such as the more funky charms, give the items a slight edge.

During my browsing session, von Matt's partner was busy working away in the back area of the store designing new pieces, but she was happy to answer any questions either my friend or I had. We found out that one of the main sources of business isn't just the sale of their seasonal pieces, but the production of customized designs. One of N&P's great services is that customers can bring in jewelry they no longer use and have them completely redesigned into a new piece. The idea stems from the fact that many women just have old jewelry lying around they no longer want to wear or were given to as a gift/inherited. The N&P ladies thought it was a shame to waste such materials which usually still hold some sentimental value to the owner and according to them, these customizations bring them the most joy.


I thought this was a terrific concept, so I'll be looking through my unused jewelry collection to see if there's anything I can bring in the next time I'm in town. For those nowhere near Hamburg, no worries, N&P now also sells their pieces online, so check it out if you have the time.

(individual images: Nuts & Pearls homepage)

Address: Turnerstraße 10, 20357 Hamburg
Opening Hrs: Wed-Fri: 12:00-19:00, Sat: 11:00-16:00
Nuts & Pearls Homepage & Online Shop

Jil Sander Boutique (Hamburg, Germany)

Jil Sander is probably Germany's most internationally successful fashion export and because the label originated in Hamburg (Jil Sander herself still resides here), I thought it appropriate to profile this boutique. Sander opened her first store in 1967 in the Milchstraße, a quiet somewhat upscale residential neighborhood near Hamburg's outer lake. Five years later, she started selling her own collection of clothes there, alongside those of established big designers. The signature Sander look consisted mainly of separates such as white blouses, black blazers, cashmere cardigans and simple coats. Even though Sander has since left the company, it is this minimalist style that to this day defines every Jil Sander collection.

SS09 RTW Collection (images: Jil Sander Homepage)

Back when Sander was still in charge, it was said that she was such a perfectionist, everything from the store design to the sales staff's standing position was dictated by the designer herself. I'm guessing that this is no longer the case - I'd have a hard time believing that Raf Simons draws up position charts, but nevertheless, the stores still have an undeniable Sander feel.

I rarely feel intimidated when I visit designer flagships, but I must say that the store's minimalist design (which was the ideal backdrop for the clothes and accessories) actually made me hesitate when entering the boutique. It also didn't help that three SA's jumped up from where they were seated when my friend and I walked in or that the flagship was completely empty except for the two security guards and the five sales people. Yes, we were greatly outnumbered. One SA was kind enough to give us specific instructions as to where to find everything - menswear on the right, women's clothing everywhere else, shoes on the far left etc. - but considering the store's spartan interior, it was pretty hard to miss the products on display.

I do think the shop rarely gets that many visitors though (which explains the sales team's enthusiasm), so I decided to be extra thorough when looking at the clothes and accessories. Not that I needed motivation - I've always been a JS fan and love simple pieces you can either wear plain or accessorize the hell out of. I was particularly fond of the current season's fringed items, such as the black dresses and clutches. And while I was aware that Jil Sander also produces shoes and bags, it was only now that I actually gave them my full attention. I was pleasantly surprised by the cool ultra-high platforms or the bright soft slouchy bags.

Needless to say the majority of the pieces were mainly black or white, but I did find a rack with bright purple knits and basics, along with a few pastel colored dresses. The store itself is very very white and barely furnished except for a few chairs, one couch near the shoe area and a big table close to the entrance. This is by no means the biggest or oldest flagship (ironically that one's in my current hometown Paris) but I think it represents the Jil Sander look perfectly.

Luckily my initial intimidation quickly subsided and I must say the staff are very friendly, so I did quite enjoy seeing the Summer collection in person. If you're ever near a JS store and it's empty, don't worry about going in to take a quick browse - photos in magazines don't do the cut and fabric of the clothes justice. You might want to bring a friend though, just so you're not all alone...

(individual images: Browns, Net-a-Porter)

Address: Neuer Wall 43, 20459 Hamburg
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-19:00
Jil Sander Homepage

M39: Sabine Ortland (Hamburg, Germany)

I'll admit that when I lived in Hamburg, I was guilty of shopping mainly in the downtown area filled with high street stores and luxury boutiques - all of which I usually passed during my daily commute to and from work. This means I painfully neglected the Karolinenviertel, filled with streets full of vintage shops and retail outlets belonging to independent designers. My friend V. had a similar shopping habit, so it was with much determination, we decided to head to this neighborhood to find something more unique and less mass produced.

left: M39 homepage, right: image brochure

The first store that got our attention was M39, a name derived from the shop's address. While the exterior didn't really look that spectacular, the windows were filled with so many cute items, we just couldn't resist going in. The shop is owned by local designer Sabine Ortland who has gained a fair amount of popularity in the last few years with her hand-made clothing and accessories. Though she has other select retail locations throughout Germany now, M39 is what you could call the headquarter and also houses the designer's workshop. According to press releases everyone from German pop legend Nena to Courtney Love has graced this tiny store with their presence at some point, but despite the fact that this boutique is no longer an insider secret, it definitely still holds its charm.

Ortland first opened M39 in 1997 but began designing before that, mainly as a hobby. Even though her collections include women's clothing, such as dresses, skirts, tops and trousers, her signature pieces are actually slightly smaller. One of the first items she created were adorable knitted arm or hand warmers in various colors, some with additional applique touches. I never thought about getting any, but when I saw these, I had the sudden urge to stock up on them.

My other favorite pieces included patterned scarves made from jersey material or wool. They were lined and just like the arm warmers, they came with details such as lace embroidery or intricate stitching. I spotted some thinner scarves and found out these could in fact be used as collars, ties or belts depending on how you tied them. I was very tempted to get one, especially when I noticed that they each had one or two unique metal pendants/charms sewn on. A nautical-themed version had a small anchor and a more summery one had a little lady bird. Oh, if only they had had one in pink or gray, I would have snapped one up instantly.

My partner in shopping, V. on the other hand was somewhat smitten by the skirts, which similar to the jackets and dresses were relatively simple except for their patterned seams and hemlines, giving a classic item a bit of a twist. Other goodies I saw included small pouches in retro designs, larger tote bags made of leather and fabric, little heart-shaped cushions and even a small selection of delicate jewelry.

The store itself is small and homey but allows plenty of space for browsing. Wooden floors and furniture, as well as decorations including Russian dolls, potted plants and still-life paintings gave everything a slightly girly touch.

All products are unique and made by hand in small production batches, so you're not bound to see too many other people wearing the same thing. Prices are affordable as well, ranging from 20 EUR for smaller scarves and hand warmers to 60 EUR for dresses. Believe it or not, both V. and I left the shop empty-handed, but have been unable to stop thinking about the items we saw. Something tells me we might be heading back very soon...

Address: Marktstraße 39, 20357 Hamburg
Opening Hrs: Mon-Fri: 12:00-19:00, Sat: 11:00-16:00
M39 Homepage

Impressions of Hamburg (Germany)

I am going to start off by saying that this place is probably one of the most beautiful urban areas you'll find in the world. While Berlin only gradually grew on me (right after Germany's unification it resembled one big construction site and before that it just wasn't that interesting), I instantly fell in love with Hamburg the first time I visited. I lived here for two years and it's the one place I truly regret not having spent more time in, which is why I make the effort to return whenever I can.

Rathaus / Town Hall

Hamburg is Germany's second-largest city (after Berlin) and like the nation's capital, it's a city-state that's marked with contrasts. Blessed with the two beautiful 'Alster' lakes in the city center, it also has a large harbor and so many canals that to this day, it's still the city with the most bridges in the world (2300 in total - more than what Amsterdam and Venice have combined). You'll find impressive old warehouses in the 'Speicherstadt', stunning houses and mansions belonging to the rich upper-class, many yachts and sailboats parked around the docks and large avenues filled with high-end shops and boutiques.

One of Hamburg's many canals and bridges off the 'Aussenalster' Lake

Alsterarkaden near Jungfernstieg

At the same time, Hamburg also has a very impressive alternative and indie scene. Towards St. Pauli you'll find the Schanzen- and Karoviertel filled with smaller cafes, clubs, vintage shops and old cinemas catering to artists, musicians and students. This area is also home to Europe's largest red-light-district around the Reeperbahn, which has become so touristy, that you'll find just as many bars, restaurants and clubs attracting anyone from teenagers to pensioners (currently the Mamma Mia musical is showing here) as you will the usual sex and strip club haunts.

Grosse Freiheit in the red-light district off the Reeperbahn

In any case, if you love to shop, Hamburg is the ideal place to do so. Most might associate hip fashion with Berlin, but let's not forget that Hamburg gave us Karl Lagerfeld, who was born and raised here, as well as Jil Sander. Because of its proximity to Scandinavia, many local independent designers will favor a more retro vintagey style and you'll find a great selection of Danish and Swedish labels in smaller boutiques.

Whatever you do, don't just go to Berlin if you're ever in Germany (or Europe for that matter), because you'll be missing out on one of the most amazing cities I've ever been to.

High-end boutiques on Neuer Wall

Speicherstadt/Warehouse district

Harbor

Independent & vintage boutiques on the Marktstrasse in the Karoviertel

Binnenalster - Hamburg's inner lake

View of the Aussenalster - the outer lake

High street shopping on the Mönckebergstrasse