K.Brat (London, UK)

The first time I saw images of K.Brat's AW11/12 collection, courtesy of the designer herself, I knew I was on to something special. I was immediately drawn to the sculptural pieces that seemed to exude both toughness and soft femininity. I knew I had to see and learn more, so I was delighted when I got the chance to view the collection in person during a recent press day.

My first glance at the K.Brat collection on the racks (left). Campaign shot (right, source: K.Brat).

Before I talk about the actual clothes though, I thought I'd share a bit about the designer, Keren Brat, who, as a London College of Fashion graduate, launched her label in 2008, having previously worked with London based designers such as Louis De-Gama and Aluma Klein. Interestingly enough, her first two collections, titled 'Cutting Through' and 'Boundaries', were primarily handbag collections ('Boundaries' also included a selection of corset leather belts). Entirely handmade in London with great attention to detail, the bags were an indicator of what a K.Brat women's wear line would look like. This first AW11/12 women's collection doesn't disappoint: Under the name 'Comes Within', the range focuses on contemporary leisure day and night pieces that combine a soft tailoring with strong construction. All materials are sourced within the UK, where the garments are also handmade by local artisans in accordance to the ethical responsibilities of the label.

Beautiful from the front and back: purple merino wool asymmetric dress with cut-out details (right images: K.Brat).

Classic with an edge: light grey wool velour coat with jersey inserts, panelling details, hidden zip fastening and side pockets.

Soft yet strong: light grey full-length leather dress with side frills, panelling details and an open back (lookbook images: K.Brat).

The collection features a variety that includes everything from leather jackets to loosely fitted silk tops. When I saw the line in person, I was instantly struck by two things: The beautiful construction complete with wonderful details such as frills on skirts or panelling on dresses, and the fact that every garment didn't just impress from the front, but had a unique (and often different) look from the back as well. When asked about her inspiration for 'Comes Within', Keren shared that she was fascinated by anthropology and that this collection in particular was inspired by traditional Samurai armors - with a modern twist of course. The mood and spirit of the collection stems from a photograph (of model Danielle Zinaich, shot by Lina Scheynius), which to Keren portrayed independence and empowerment, but also fragility, thus representing the woman she designs for: someone who is both strong and fragile at the same time.

A Little Black Dress with a twist: black merino wool sculpted dress with a cut-out back and side frills and flaps detailing (right images: K.Brat).

Purple Crepe de Chine silk top with roll sleeves and an open back.
Light grey leather shorts with a large front fold and a layered effect (right image: K.Brat).

More from the lookbook. The look on the far right as seen in the previous image. (source: K.Brat).

The contrast between soft and strong isn't just evident in the design, but the choice of materials. Leather - something usually associated with 'toughness' - seemed almost delicate, as seen on the layered grey shorts or the full-length leather dress. While all the garments are feminine and figure flattering, the architectural design and details also give an air of strength and power. And though I initially focused on the skirts and dresses, I had a hard time keeping my hands off the soft-tailored trousers with the large pockets (see image above). All in all, these are pieces that would speak to any woman, with the added bonus of being incredibly well-made.

Light grey merino wool sculpted open back dress with an exposed front zip and side frills and flaps detailing.

Single strap black merino wool dress, as seen in the lookbook collage above, grey merino wool dress and black merino wool pencil skirt with frills and flaps - both as seen in lookbook collage below.

If you are interested in learning more about the collections or would like to purchase some of the pieces, you can either contact Keren directly via the official K.Brat website or get in touch with her agent Anthony at AMF Sales. Bags and belts are still available as custom made orders (with your choice of color and material). In addition to the collection pieces, K.Brat also takes on commissions from private clients if you ever need that standout dress or accessory for a special event. Otherwise, keep your eyes peeled, because I'm certain that very soon we'll be seeing K.Brat in stores all across the world.

Another selection from the lookbook (source: K.Brat).

Blacks satin wool soft-tailored trousers with stitched darts detailing, large pockets and an inserted belt.
Dark grey satin wool soft-tailored trousers with angled pleats and twisted seams detailing.
Purple merino wool long sleeves top with panelling details and an exposed zip at back.
Light grey Satin Wool soft-tailored skirt with a large front fold, stitched darts details and an inserted belt.

A selection of bags and belts from the AW10/11 'Boundaries' collection. All bags are lined with silk embroidered material sourced from East Asia.

For more information, please visit the official K.Brat website.

Many thanks to Keren Brat for all the information provided and to HPR London for their help during the press days.

Stella McCartney Boutique (London, UK)

As I'm writing this, I'm sitting here wrapped in a bunch of blankets, nursing a cold and trying not to feel sorry for myself (because let's face it, that's something men would do... and incidentally it was my man who passed it on to me). So in an attempt to distract myself from this misery, I've been thinking of beautiful things... preferably related to clothing or shoes. One such wonderful place was the Stella McCartney flagship I visited in London last month and which I hadn't had the chance to post about yet.

Like her other British female counterparts Luella or Vivienne Westwood, Stella actually put some thought into the boutique, which is why it's so much more pleasant to browse than the usual glitzy designer flagships that tend to resemble a hotel lobby. As everyone knows by now, aside from having a pretty famous dad, Stella has taken a cruelty-free stance with her collections, refusing to use furs and leathers (although some vegans I know like to argue the silk she uses still results in the death of a few zillion silk worms a year). And the same ethical thought has been applied to her flagship as well, which lacks any leather furnishings or furry rugs. I've always wondered if she was bothered by the fact that her Parisian flagship is located next to that of Rick Owens, which is filled with nothing but furs, leathers and even animal bones. In any case, stepping into the London store is like stepping into another world and the experience was made even more special thanks to her current FW09 'Bambi' campaign.

FW09 campaign

Like most people, I thought the campaign was quite adorable and seeing it again in the store window instantly made me smile. But if you thought that was it, well... Bambi & Co. seemed to have taken over the entire store. Cut-outs and stickers of these Disney characters could be found throughout the shop and as if looking at McCartney's beautiful collections wasn't already a treat, it was made even more magical by the fact that you had Thumper hanging out near the accessories or Bambi eyeing up the thigh-high boots worn by a mannequin. It could have turned out pretty cheesy, but as the Stella store has quite beautiful interiors - almost reminiscent of a private home rather than a store - the boutique took the role of an enchanted forest... filled with shoes, bags and clothes (i.e. the best forest ever).

Entrance/hallway featuring lots of Thumpers and one Flower. The windows (right) displayed jewelry and accessories.

Upon entering the store (and being greeted by three Thumpers and one Flower), you'll find stairs that head towards the first floor and an area to the left containing some of the current season clothes. The room's back wall, which is where some of the accessories and bags were located, was decorated with illustrations of trees and branches where more of Bambi's friends were hanging out and looking pretty happy surrounded by the totes and clutches. I was most drawn to the bright pink counter which held some pretty cool jewelry and elbow-length gloves.

Ground floor accessories area (left). Jewelry and gloves on display (right).

Walking on I found a bright and airy indoor courtyard with a rack containing more clothes. This lead towards every girl's favorite section: the shoe department, stocked with heels and plenty of boots, many of them thigh-high. The walls were adorned with vintage jewelry pieces (I'm guessing they weren't for sale), which were pinned to the floral wallpaper. Combined with the spacious seating area, the antique crystal chandelier and large number of windows, the area had a very nice cosy feel.

The indoor courtyard, featuring clothes in red, blue and white... and Bambi's pal Flower looking very coy.

The shoe area featuring many drool-worthy items (left) and jewelry pinned to the floral wallpaper (right).

I decided to head up towards the first floor, which is where most of the clothing could be found. The room I entered resembled a large living room - mainly because the center pieces consisted of two couches, a coffee table and a big fireplace at the far end. In fact, clothes only occupied one wall, so this area is probably also used as a greeting or reception lounge.

The spacious living room area.

The next room on the other hand was stocked full of the casual chic items Stella is known for, including chunky knits, thick wool coats and yet another center table which displayed hats, gloves and other accessories.

The adjacent room with more clothes ranging from knits to lighter silk pieces... and yet another Thumper hanging out by the fireplace.

Even the changing rooms had an individual touch - in fact, they each had a different design. And these were also one of the few areas that were free of Bambi & Co. (I'm guessing they didn't want to intrude).

Loved the butterfly changing rooms...

The final area in the boutique is probably the most unique one. This section, located right above the shoe area, resembled an old-fashioned boudoir and featured large cabinets full of glass bottles and Stella's organic skincare range CARE. Her lingerie line was on display as well and could be found in the far corners of the room, but I was too busy testing out all the products in the cabinets to fully appreciate the sexy underwear. Even though this room had no windows, the warm light (from yet another chandelier) and the dark purple walls made this a very welcoming room.

The boudoir area with yet another fireplace and a TV showing the latest runway show (left) and one of two large cabinets displaying skincare items (right).

Some of the chic glass flasks in the cabinet (left) and the 7-day knicker set (right).

Bambi seems to be digging the perforated thigh-high boots... as am I (left). Other items in the hallway included the neon-lit "Love Me" sign and a colorful painting (right).

This is one of those boutiques you don't just want to visit, but would preferably like to move in to. At least I did and I almost didn't want to leave. I think most brands could probably learn a thing or two from Ms. Stella, because this was one of the least intimidating designer boutiques I've come across. The staff members were very friendly, but didn't follow you around. In fact, I was free to browse at my own leisure and was never watched. The setting is of course what makes the entire experience less corporate and more personal. And any store who's designer has the humor to plaster it with images of Disney characters, is a winner in my book. A very refreshing change to brands that take themselves too seriously.

FW09 RTW collection (images: style.com)

Address: 30 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QR
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-18:00, Thu: until 19:00
Stella McCartney Homepage & Online Store (US only)

Godiva (Edinburgh, UK)

Back when I was a student, I remember procrastinating in a library by leafing through random magazines on display. One of them was an eco mag that regularly reviewed various brand-named products and gave information not just on their impact on the environment, but on how 'safe' they were with regard to your health (i.e. toxins, parabens etc.). If available it was also listed whether or not they were ethically produced. Safe to say, almost every single item would get horrific grades and I was so shocked by this revelation, I ended up sharing this with my friend M. the same evening. It lead me to replace most of my skincare products with those containing natural ingredients, but M. took it one step further. Already a fair trade and human rights campaigner, she not only started subscribing to that evil magazine, but began purchasing fair trade, organic and recycled everything-you-can-imagine. Very noble, I know and I also realized I had somehow just created a little monster (albeit a very charming one). Our shopping sprees now consisted of going to various fair trade grocers and clothing stores specializing in sustainable fashion. While I'm up for anything, browsing racks of hemp clothing isn't really my idea of a good time. Thankfully M. realized that despite her good intentions, showing up to class wearing something resembling a potato sack wasn't really an option, so in the end she would always cave and we'd end up in an H&M.

Vintage looks from Godiva (images: Godiva).

Indie labels, clockwise starting top left: Lost Forward, Johari, Tee & Toast, Kool Jewels, Hi-Dee jeans, Teresa Dowd (images: Godiva/designer's own).

Despite the current trend in anything eco or ethical, it's still fairly difficult to find suitable items these days, especially when it comes to clothing. It's why vintage is such an attractive option. And while I'm still doing my best to become the ultimate vintage shopper (as you can imagine, M. is better at this), I still lack the patience and dedication to browse such stores for more than an hour. Which is why, after having visited Armstrongs and another two vintage stores in Edinburgh back to back, I almost cried (not in a good way) when I sighted Godiva (not the chocolate), thinking it was yet another vintage emporium. Could I handle another one? Hell no. I kept walking, then paused at the windows. For some reason the dresses on display didn't really look that vintage. I spotted the word 'recycled' and 'reworked'. Maybe I was wrong. I decided to go in.

Pieces by indie labels Lost Forward (left) and ethical brand Johari (right).

Godiva is actually a great idea for a boutique, and while it does stock vintage items, it also sells so much more. Founded in 2003 by Fleur MacIntosh, who has always had a passion for second-hand clothing, the store not only deals with typical vintage garments, but also pieces by indie designers - many of them recent graduates from fashion institutes - as well as reworked vintage items. To top it all off, Godiva also sells it's own line of clothing, specializing in made-to-measure dresses meant to last you a lifetime. Basically Godiva is four stores jammed into one cute boutique. The owner has various contacts in the fashion community and all designers are mostly local (from the U.K.). Everything is handmade in the region, so rest assured there are no sweatshops involved. In addition, you'll also find a few ethical brands, such as Johari, who's entire profits benefit fair trade and other social programmes in Africa (predominantly Kenya).

Left: A comfy old-fashioned sofa near the entrance. Right: Shoes and other goodies on the table.

Reworked vintage (left) and more dresses on display (right).

What I loved the most though, was that I was fully unaware of this when I first started browsing. Everything I saw looked hip and cool. The reworked vintage didn't look eco-boring or remotely recycled. Nothing had that musky smell that accompanies your average vintage store. Most pieces were one-of-a-kind, which supports Godiva's philosophy to "strive against the soul sucking monotony of fast food fashion to provide a truly unique alternative". The front room, which was accessorized with a comfy old-fashioned sofa, various cute props (old trunks, baskets, baroque mirrors) and large wooden wardrobes that housed the clothes, is where I found most of the indie designs, some completely 'new', others partially or entirely vintage-sourced.

Overview of the store (left) - note the zebra print on the wall - and a selection of vintage scarves (right).

I spotted open suitcases full of second-hand scarves, wicker baskets filled with various belts, a large display featuring hats by milliner Jill Corbett and racks of feminine clothes by the local indie label Lost Forward. My favorite items were by Virginia Morley, who uses vintage and recycled fabrics, buttons and buckles to create edgy statement pieces. I also found a great selection of bags (most of them consisting of recycled leather or fabric), as well as jewelry, both new and reworked, by brands such as Dolls & Molls or Kool Jewels.

So many bags... (left) and a few belts (right).

If you're a true vintage fan and don't want any of that reworked stuff, the back room is for you. This is where you'll find the traditional second-hand items ranging from kilts and 50s dresses to 80s sequined tops. The selection is small - just how I like it, but it's full of gems. You'll find everything from daytime appropriate skirts to evening gowns. And don't be fooled by the girly interior of the entire store - the boutique also stocks quite a range of menswear and children's clothes as well.

The vintage room.

It's only when I went back to the front room that I found the small rack near the window with samples of made-to-measure pieces. Most of these items are designed by the Godiva label, but you'll also find dresses by Lost Forward and Rowan Joy. Getting your bespoke outfit is fairly straightforward: you choose a design from the rack and try it on, consult with the designer, then pick your ideal fabric combination and any other embellishments you may wish to include. You'll get your measurements taken, then come in for a fitting and - voilà! Your own custom-made dress - who said you needed to wait until your wedding to get one! And the best thing is, it's unique, well-made, locally designed and (of course) ethical.

The front room again, with bespoke dresses on the rack near the window (left). Samples of fabric and dresses that can be made-to-measure.

My only gripe is that they don't have more stores like this around - especially closer to where I live. It's the perfect place to go with your girlfriends and regardless of whether they love vintage, indie or tailor-made garments, you'll find something to suit any taste here. Oh, and I must mention that all items here carry the equivalent of high street pricing (in some cases even cheaper). In addition, you can get a bespoke dress starting at just £65. Some of the items by indie designers in the store are available online from other websites but Godiva is currently in the process of building a web-store, so hopefully we'll be able to purchase some of the goodies online in the near future. Until then, I'll probably have to tell my dear M. to take the next flight to Edinburgh...

Reworked vintage. Clockwise starting top left: Red Mutha, Oops, Virginia Morley, Zippy Lovelock, Rebecca Jane (both outfit and bag), Dolls & Molls.

Some of the made-to-measure dresses available from the Godiva label.

Address: 9 West Port, Edinburgh EH1 2JA
Opening Hrs: Mon-Fri: 10:30-18:30, Sat: 10:30-18:00
Sun: 12:00-17:00
Godiva Homepage

Manoush (Paris, France)

I remember the first time I saw a Manoush item in person. My friend J. and I were in a department store (Printemps), on a floor that sold predominantly French brands ranging from Maje to Zadig & Voltaire, the majority of which are defined by their chic rock or 80s inspired casual looks. In the middle of this we spotted an oasis of bright colors, frills, lace and gold, rivaled only by the hippy Antik Batik located next to it. J. gasped, pulling out a neon pink lace dress with ruffles and embroidered with gold thread, held it up and asked me under which circumstances someone would wear something like that. My answer was "maybe if you're on a unicorn riding towards a rainbow". Weeks later, I spotted a few ad campaigns for the brand and realized I hadn't been that far off with my assumption.

SS09 ad campaigns.

If you like monochrome minimalist designs or goth-inspired looks, Manoush is possibly the kind of label that would make your head spin. At first glance, I wondered how anyone could purchase something from this brand without looking like a frilly bohemian cupcake, but to be honest, you'll have to take a closer look, because a lot of the items are very wearable and not as bizarre as you might think. Frédérique Trou-Roy, formerly an accessories designer for the French company Morgan, started Manoush (French slang for 'gypsy') in January 2003 after having embarked on an extensive journey through Marrakesh. She was instantly captivated by the colors, fragrances and fabrics, spending most of her time in local souks (markets) where she had craftsmen produce bags she had designed, while putting together other creations herself, including embellished willow baskets or Hands of Fatima decorations. She took these pieces back to Paris, where she soon found a buyer. She continued traveling to other places including Brazil (where her famous lingerie-laced mini dresses were born), India and other parts of Asia, each region inspiring different pieces which ended up in her collection.

Above: The Jalil Workshop. Below: Animals resuced by the Helga Heidrich charity with the designer (left).

These days you will find five standalone Manoush boutiques in Paris with several more around France, while the label is stocked in big-name stores such as Neiman Marcus, Kitson and Harvey Nichols. Frédérique who remains a bohemian at heart, thanks to her equally free-spirited father who would take her along on his travels to Africa, where they would have meals with wandering gypsies, describes her brand as being "poetic, bohemian, girly and some people would even say kitsch and this is quite true. I love anything that shines, sings out, sparkles and dances." She has however not forgotten the country that inspired her brand: each season the profits of one key item will go towards the Helga Heidrich charity which helps abandoned animals in Marrakesh (from donkeys, dogs and horses to peacocks and monkeys). In addition, Manoush uses the Moroccan Jalil workshops, a fair trade arrangement which enables women to work from home surrounded by their children while at the same time earning an income to support their families. These women are in charge of sewing and embroidering the majority of bags and accessories in the Manoush range.

Lots of pink and note the crystals hanging from the ceiling (left).

To fully appreciate the whimsical and colorful nature of the brand, there's nothing like visiting one of the Manoush boutiques, which are as quirky and girly as the clothes. The pictures here were taken in the Avenue Montaigne location, a pretty prestigious part of town and the most recent shop to have opened in Paris. If pink isn't your color, you might have a hard time appreciating the rose-colored walls, wallpaper and tiles that can be found around the retail space. Small disco balls and Swarovski crystals hanging from the ceiling reflected the spotlights nicely, making the store even brighter and more sparkly. Of course the glitziest items will still be the clothes. Some of them are honestly not my style... it reminded me of something a gypsy might wear if she appeared in a Bollywood production. I spied a turquoise dress that was adorned with large gold coins, lots of lace in pink and blue, as well as brocade floral items rivaling the wallpaper next to it.

Rose-patterned tile walls & disco balls (left) and more lace and ruffles (right).

At the time I went, the FW09 collection, which is dominated by blacks and grays, wasn't out yet, but I still found some fairly low-key items - mainly the beautiful silk maxi-dresses and black ruffled evening gowns. French musicians such as Olivia Ruiz (who is wearing Manoush on the cover of her album) and Vanessa Paradis are fans of the brand, and I can see why, as you'll find just the perfect mix of feminine and floaty pieces with an added bit of dazzle.

Mannequins sporting more wearable looks, standing on a bed of artificial roses (right).

The ground floor is where most of the main clothing collection is displayed, but one floor down is where you need to be if you're in search of some accessories. From what I could tell, the majority of these were inspired by the designer's trips to the Orient and Africa. The Hand of Fatima (which also happens to be the brand logo) was prominently featured on many items, especially bags and clutches. Only one rack along a wall had a few more clothes, including a very soft leather jacket with an intricately crafted brooch on the collar.

Accessories and more clothes on the lower level.

The lower level resembled an indoor market, with trinkets and decorations scattered around, including porcelain animals, various books and embroidered cushions. Many of these items are vintage souvenirs from trips taken by the designer and they definitely help give the boutiques the vibe of being in an exotic country.

Vintage decor and more accessories.

Heading back up, I took a quick look at the jewelry, which was displayed in a small (pink of course) cabinet. Right above that, videos from the Manoush campaign were running on a big screen.

A unicorn on the big-screen near the jewelry cabinet.

Sales assistants were scurrying around tidying the place up and while I was there, workers were installing more disco balls and crystal decorations, so by now the store might be even more glam than it was when I visited. Not all the pieces are things I'd necessarily wear, but I did find a lot I wouldn't mind having in my wardrobe. And the girly part of me just loves the store - it's such a nice change from the usual sterile environment you find in most other places. Definitely worth a visit if you get the chance. And if you're not familiar with the brand, a number of retailers (including online sites such as ASOS or Revolve Clothing) stock their items, so check it out if you get a chance.

SS09 (above) and FW09 looks (images: Manoush).

Address: 16 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-19:00
Manoush Homepage