Showing posts with label Eco/Green. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Eco/Green. Show all posts

MA_11 Exhibition - London College of Fashion (London, UK)


Last week, I had the pleasure of perusing a selection of works from the London College of Fashion MA graduates and since Fashion Week is upon us, I thought it would be nice to have a peek at some of the (potentially) future big-name designers. As is often the case with emerging designers, innovation and creativity were at the forefront, and I found myself wishing I could purchase some of the incredible statement shoes or handmade knits (or at least borrow them... for a long time). The most fascinating area was probably the 'Fashion & The Environment' section, which showcased novel ways to combat excessive use of power/electricity using the right fabric/clothing and featured designs that sought to increase the bond between consumer and product.

Below you'll find a few of the images I managed to take, sorted by category/graduate course. For more information, I'd highly recommend checking out the LCF student portfolios via the link at the end of this post.


MA Fashion Design Technology

Winner of Collection of the Year, Matteo Molinari's designs (left) and a geometric dress from Nam Young Kim (right).

Colorful 'tufted' garments from Jennifer Morris and funky sandal boots from Tatwasin Boat Khajeenikorn.


MA Digital Fashion

Digital prints and their inspiration. Pieces by Wenshuang Liao, Eunmi Hwang and I-Ching Logan.


MA Fashion Photography

The Fashion Photography section included works by winner Shiba Huizer (bottom center) and Lara Cusi Grande (bottom right).


MA Fashion Curation

The curation course explored (amongst other things) ways to display garments.


MA Fashion Artefact

The Kat Marks neck pieces consisting of bibs with ties, buttons and collars were stunning (left). Magical leather creations courtesy of milliner Vesna Pesic (right).

Innovative totes, made of geometrical leather and Chinese cracked ceramics. Designers: Alexandra Gross, Wei Wang.


MA Fashion Footwear

Impressive colorful shoes and cut-out shoe boots from John Brunswick (left) and a selection of heels and flats from Rui Sheng (right).

Funky footwear from Netta Makkonen (top right, bottom left), with a very cool 'thorny heel' and Chan Jung Kim.

Chic shoes for the gents from Anna Baxter (left) and more for the ladies from Ralf Ko (right).


MA Fashion & The Environment

Yinyin Liu's silk garments (left) help alleviate heat and humidty, encouraging wearers to go out instead of sitting indoors with the air-conditioner blasting. On the other end, Una Hussey's warm and cozy loungewear can be worn by the entire family, eliminating the need for excessive heating indoors.

Lovely knits from Zoe Grace Fletcher who sheared her own sheep and hand-dyed all garments naturally herself. Her pieces are meant to encourage the use of local (British) wool. Three jackets from Ivan Dauriz, who's embedded the story of the production process in the lining, giving wearers a closer relationship to the jacket they're wearing. He also hopes wearers will then be more inclined to pass on clothing, instead of throwing them away.

Recycled and reinterpreted pieces, such as collars from Tara Baoth Mooney (middle piece is a vintage purse from her mother) as an example of how memories can be associated with certain material items. Saida Bruce's garments display the emotional durability of clothes as they age with their wearer and feature intricacies reflecting the wearers experience.

Stella McCartney Boutique (London, UK)


stella mccartney london store
As I'm writing this, I'm sitting here wrapped in a bunch of blankets, nursing a cold and trying not to feel sorry for myself (because let's face it, that's something men would do... and incidentally it was my man who passed it on to me). So in an attempt to distract myself from this misery, I've been thinking of beautiful things... preferably related to clothing or shoes. One such wonderful place was the Stella McCartney flagship I visited in London last month and which I hadn't had the chance to post about yet.

Like her other British female counterparts Luella or Vivienne Westwood, Stella actually put some thought into the boutique, which is why it's so much more pleasant to browse than the usual glitzy designer flagships that tend to resemble a hotel lobby. As everyone knows by now, aside from having a pretty famous dad, Stella has taken a cruelty-free stance with her collections, refusing to use furs and leathers (although some vegans I know like to argue the silk she uses still results in the death of a few zillion silk worms a year). And the same ethical thought has been applied to her flagship as well, which lacks any leather furnishings or furry rugs. I've always wondered if she was bothered by the fact that her Parisian flagship is located next to that of Rick Owens, which is filled with nothing but furs, leathers and even animal bones. In any case, stepping into the London store is like stepping into another world and the experience was made even more special thanks to her current FW09 'Bambi' campaign.


stella mccartney londonFW09 campaign

Like most people, I thought the campaign was quite adorable and seeing it again in the store window instantly made me smile. But if you thought that was it, well... Bambi & Co. seemed to have taken over the entire store. Cut-outs and stickers of these Disney characters could be found throughout the shop and as if looking at McCartney's beautiful collections wasn't already a treat, it was made even more magical by the fact that you had Thumper hanging out near the accessories or Bambi eyeing up the thigh-high boots worn by a mannequin. It could have turned out pretty cheesy, but as the Stella store has quite beautiful interiors - almost reminiscent of a private home rather than a store - the boutique took the role of an enchanted forest... filled with shoes, bags and clothes (i.e. the best forest ever).

stella mccartney londonEntrance/hallway featuring lots of Thumpers and one Flower. The windows (right) displayed jewelry and accessories.

Upon entering the store (and being greeted by three Thumpers and one Flower), you'll find stairs that head towards the first floor and an area to the left containing some of the current season clothes. The room's back wall, which is where some of the accessories and bags were located, was decorated with illustrations of trees and branches where more of Bambi's friends were hanging out and looking pretty happy surrounded by the totes and clutches. I was most drawn to the bright pink counter which held some pretty cool jewelry and elbow-length gloves.

stella mccartney londonGround floor accessories area (left). Jewelry and gloves on display (right).

Walking on I found a bright and airy indoor courtyard with a rack containing more clothes. This lead towards every girl's favorite section: the shoe department, stocked with heels and plenty of boots, many of them thigh-high. The walls were adorned with vintage jewelry pieces (I'm guessing they weren't for sale), which were pinned to the floral wallpaper. Combined with the spacious seating area, the antique crystal chandelier and large number of windows, the area had a very nice cosy feel.

stella mccartney londonThe indoor courtyard, featuring clothes in red, blue and white... and Bambi's pal Flower looking very coy.

stella mccartney londonThe shoe area featuring many drool-worthy items (left) and jewelry pinned to the floral wallpaper (right).

I decided to head up towards the first floor, which is where most of the clothing could be found. The room I entered resembled a large living room - mainly because the center pieces consisted of two couches, a coffee table and a big fireplace at the far end. In fact, clothes only occupied one wall, so this area is probably also used as a greeting or reception lounge.

stella mccartney londonThe spacious living room area.

The next room on the other hand was stocked full of the casual chic items Stella is known for, including chunky knits, thick wool coats and yet another center table which displayed hats, gloves and other accessories.

stella mccartney londonstella mccartney londonThe adjacent room with more clothes ranging from knits to lighter silk pieces... and yet another Thumper hanging out by the fireplace.

Even the changing rooms had an individual touch - in fact, they each had a different design. And these were also one of the few areas that were free of Bambi & Co. (I'm guessing they didn't want to intrude).

stella mccartney londonLoved the butterfly changing rooms...

The final area in the boutique is probably the most unique one. This section, located right above the shoe area, resembled an old-fashioned boudoir and featured large cabinets full of glass bottles and Stella's organic skincare range CARE. Her lingerie line was on display as well and could be found in the far corners of the room, but I was too busy testing out all the products in the cabinets to fully appreciate the sexy underwear. Even though this room had no windows, the warm light (from yet another chandelier) and the dark purple walls made this a very welcoming room.

stella mccartney londonThe boudoir area with yet another fireplace and a TV showing the latest runway show (left) and one of two large cabinets displaying skincare items (right).

stella mccartney londonSome of the chic glass flasks in the cabinet (left) and the 7-day knicker set (right).

stella mccartney londonBambi seems to be digging the perforated thigh-high boots... as am I (left). Other items in the hallway included the neon-lit "Love Me" sign and a colorful painting (right).

This is one of those boutiques you don't just want to visit, but would preferably like to move in to. At least I did and I almost didn't want to leave. I think most brands could probably learn a thing or two from Ms. Stella, because this was one of the least intimidating designer boutiques I've come across. The staff members were very friendly, but didn't follow you around. In fact, I was free to browse at my own leisure and was never watched. The setting is of course what makes the entire experience less corporate and more personal. And any store who's designer has the humor to plaster it with images of Disney characters, is a winner in my book. A very refreshing change to brands that take themselves too seriously.

stella mccartney londonFW09 RTW collection (images: style.com)

Address: 30 Bruton Street, London W1J 6QR
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-18:00, Thu: until 19:00
Stella McCartney Homepage & Online Store (US only)

Godiva (Edinburgh, UK)


godiva edinburgh
Back when I was a student, I remember procrastinating in a library by leafing through random magazines on display. One of them was an eco mag that regularly reviewed various brand-named products and gave information not just on their impact on the environment, but on how 'safe' they were with regard to your health (i.e. toxins, parabens etc.). If available it was also listed whether or not they were ethically produced. Safe to say, almost every single item would get horrific grades and I was so shocked by this revelation, I ended up sharing this with my friend M. the same evening. It lead me to replace most of my skincare products with those containing natural ingredients, but M. took it one step further. Already a fair trade and human rights campaigner, she not only started subscribing to that evil magazine, but began purchasing fair trade, organic and recycled everything-you-can-imagine. Very noble, I know and I also realized I had somehow just created a little monster (albeit a very charming one). Our shopping sprees now consisted of going to various fair trade grocers and clothing stores specializing in sustainable fashion. While I'm up for anything, browsing racks of hemp clothing isn't really my idea of a good time. Thankfully M. realized that despite her good intentions, showing up to class wearing something resembling a potato sack wasn't really an option, so in the end she would always cave and we'd end up in an H&M.

godiva edinburghVintage looks from Godiva (images: Godiva).

godiva edinburghIndie labels, clockwise starting top left: Lost Forward, Johari, Tee & Toast, Kool Jewels, Hi-Dee jeans, Teresa Dowd (images: Godiva/designer's own).

Despite the current trend in anything eco or ethical, it's still fairly difficult to find suitable items these days, especially when it comes to clothing. It's why vintage is such an attractive option. And while I'm still doing my best to become the ultimate vintage shopper (as you can imagine, M. is better at this), I still lack the patience and dedication to browse such stores for more than an hour. Which is why, after having visited Armstrongs and another two vintage stores in Edinburgh back to back, I almost cried (not in a good way) when I sighted Godiva (not the chocolate), thinking it was yet another vintage emporium. Could I handle another one? Hell no. I kept walking, then paused at the windows. For some reason the dresses on display didn't really look that vintage. I spotted the word 'recycled' and 'reworked'. Maybe I was wrong. I decided to go in.

godiva edinburghPieces by indie labels Lost Forward (left) and ethical brand Johari (right).

Godiva is actually a great idea for a boutique, and while it does stock vintage items, it also sells so much more. Founded in 2003 by Fleur MacIntosh, who has always had a passion for second-hand clothing, the store not only deals with typical vintage garments, but also pieces by indie designers - many of them recent graduates from fashion institutes - as well as reworked vintage items. To top it all off, Godiva also sells it's own line of clothing, specializing in made-to-measure dresses meant to last you a lifetime. Basically Godiva is four stores jammed into one cute boutique. The owner has various contacts in the fashion community and all designers are mostly local (from the U.K.). Everything is handmade in the region, so rest assured there are no sweatshops involved. In addition, you'll also find a few ethical brands, such as Johari, who's entire profits benefit fair trade and other social programmes in Africa (predominantly Kenya).

godiva edinburghLeft: A comfy old-fashioned sofa near the entrance. Right: Shoes and other goodies on the table.

godiva edinburghReworked vintage (left) and more dresses on display (right).

What I loved the most though, was that I was fully unaware of this when I first started browsing. Everything I saw looked hip and cool. The reworked vintage didn't look eco-boring or remotely recycled. Nothing had that musky smell that accompanies your average vintage store. Most pieces were one-of-a-kind, which supports Godiva's philosophy to "strive against the soul sucking monotony of fast food fashion to provide a truly unique alternative". The front room, which was accessorized with a comfy old-fashioned sofa, various cute props (old trunks, baskets, baroque mirrors) and large wooden wardrobes that housed the clothes, is where I found most of the indie designs, some completely 'new', others partially or entirely vintage-sourced.

godiva edinburghOverview of the store (left) - note the zebra print on the wall - and a selection of vintage scarves (right).

I spotted open suitcases full of second-hand scarves, wicker baskets filled with various belts, a large display featuring hats by milliner Jill Corbett and racks of feminine clothes by the local indie label Lost Forward. My favorite items were by Virginia Morley, who uses vintage and recycled fabrics, buttons and buckles to create edgy statement pieces. I also found a great selection of bags (most of them consisting of recycled leather or fabric), as well as jewelry, both new and reworked, by brands such as Dolls & Molls or Kool Jewels.

godiva edinburghSo many bags... (left) and a few belts (right).

If you're a true vintage fan and don't want any of that reworked stuff, the back room is for you. This is where you'll find the traditional second-hand items ranging from kilts and 50s dresses to 80s sequined tops. The selection is small - just how I like it, but it's full of gems. You'll find everything from daytime appropriate skirts to evening gowns. And don't be fooled by the girly interior of the entire store - the boutique also stocks quite a range of menswear and children's clothes as well.

godiva edinburghThe vintage room.

It's only when I went back to the front room that I found the small rack near the window with samples of made-to-measure pieces. Most of these items are designed by the Godiva label, but you'll also find dresses by Lost Forward and Rowan Joy. Getting your bespoke outfit is fairly straightforward: you choose a design from the rack and try it on, consult with the designer, then pick your ideal fabric combination and any other embellishments you may wish to include. You'll get your measurements taken, then come in for a fitting and - voilà! Your own custom-made dress - who said you needed to wait until your wedding to get one! And the best thing is, it's unique, well-made, locally designed and (of course) ethical.

godiva edinburghThe front room again, with bespoke dresses on the rack near the window (left). Samples of fabric and dresses that can be made-to-measure.

My only gripe is that they don't have more stores like this around - especially closer to where I live. It's the perfect place to go with your girlfriends and regardless of whether they love vintage, indie or tailor-made garments, you'll find something to suit any taste here. Oh, and I must mention that all items here carry the equivalent of high street pricing (in some cases even cheaper). In addition, you can get a bespoke dress starting at just £65. Some of the items by indie designers in the store are available online from other websites but Godiva is currently in the process of building a web-store, so hopefully we'll be able to purchase some of the goodies online in the near future. Until then, I'll probably have to tell my dear M. to take the next flight to Edinburgh...

godiva edinburghReworked vintage. Clockwise starting top left: Red Mutha, Oops, Virginia Morley, Zippy Lovelock, Rebecca Jane (both outfit and bag), Dolls & Molls.

godiva edinburghSome of the made-to-measure dresses available from the Godiva label.

Address: 9 West Port, Edinburgh EH1 2JA
Opening Hrs: Mon-Fri: 10:30-18:30, Sat: 10:30-18:00
Sun: 12:00-17:00
Godiva Homepage

Merci (Paris, France)


merci parisMain entrance in the courtyard.

There aren't a lot of ways to shop guilt-free these days. Items on offer can either be overpriced, badly produced, linked to dubious labor practices or just so trendy, you'll never wear them beyond a season. The answer to all this could be vintage shopping. Or better yet: going to a charity store. Even if whatever you buy ends up at the back of your closet, at least you'll know your money went towards a good cause. The only problem with this (at least in my case), is that charity stores aren't as wide-spread in mainland Europe. I've always admired the UK for having an Oxfam, Salvation Army or Red Cross in every city or town, stocking everything from boots to porcelain cups. France? Forget it... at least until recently.

merci parisEntrance to the flower shop.

Merci is a very unique way of saying 'thank you', at least when it comes to this store which opened its doors in March. Because the French like doing things on a grander scale, Merci isn't just your average tiny little charity shop in a backstreet. It's a luxury concept store, over 1500 (approx. 16 145 sq.ft) large that sells you anything you could possibly need, whether it's a book or a roll of yarn. The founders Marie-France and Bernard Cohen (who also created, then sold the luxury children's wear label Bonpoint) have gotten in touch with designers, artists, musicians, actors, stylists, authors and famous friends who have kindly donated items from their own collections or crafted special pieces to be sold there exclusively.

merci parisCafe/library entrance.

Some pieces are vintage, while others are brand new and either come from current collections or have been designed just for the store. The thing you need to know is that designers who are offering their goods on sale here are foregoing their profits, so all the brand new items will cost you around 30% less than the normal sale price. In turn Merci will donate 100% of their profits from goods sold to a foundation benefiting impoverished children in Madagascar, one of the poorest regions in the world and a cause close to the heart of Madame Cohen, who has traveled there several times. Her goal is to give young children (especially girls) the chance of an education so that they can one day have a career.

merci parisCourtyard decorations included greenery with bird cages (left) and a red Fiat (right).

What's even more amazing is that during the sale season (which thankfully ended yesterday), Merci slashed their prices even further. So in addition to getting already cheaper items for an almost wholesale price, you got another 30-50% off. Regardless of how much the stuff costs though, Merci is worth a visit, just for the store alone. Tucked away in a back yard, you won't immediately detect the main entrance, but instead see two different storefronts: one for the cafe and the other for the flower shop. Between these two, you'll find a gate that leads to an inner courtyard, where Merci has placed the first vintage item: a red Fiat Cinquecento, occasionally loaded with goods but currently only covered in green foliage. I'm pretty sure this item isn't for sale though.

merci parisOverview of the ground floor (left) and skylight (right).

merci parisSmaller home decor items (left) and eco-friendly plates (right).

merci parisRecycled bags and flower pots (left), some interesting mugs (right).

The first time I walked into this converted factory, I was stunned by how bright and airy it was. The biggest source of natural daylight is the big skylight in the main area, while palm trees and other plants give the impression you could be in a greenhouse rather than a retail space. It's also the least cramped place I've ever shopped in and the numerous staff members are probably one of the friendliest you'll come across in this city. The front area of the ground floor sold mainly smaller home decor and other items such as vases, pots, barbecue grills and a large selection of eco-friendly disposable wooden cutlery and plates. I found a few recycled bags and purses, but the biggest draw is probably the section towards the left.

merci parisAnnick Goutal perfume section (top and lower left) and the neon lit room (right).

Cohen, who's late sister happened to be Annick Goutal, managed to get the company to donate several scents which are on offer. Instead of selling them in the usual fancy flasks, they are sold in simple glass bottles, though consumers are urged to bring their own containers which can be filled with their favorite perfume. The benefit is that you'll save 40% off the store price. Another great deal.

merci parisJewelry housed in cabinets and glass domes (top image: farawaytrends.com).

I was also fascinated by the fine jewelry, which was housed in various glass cases, some of them resembling displays of art. There was also an area filled with purple neon light, currently shut off, but I was told this section usually displays clothing.

merci parisThe vintage clothes section.

Heading towards the right side of this floor, you end up in another large room. The first thing I saw was a small collection of vintage pieces under a staircase, mainly formal wear including robes from Dior or YSL, though one rack also held some casual pieces such as vintage Levis or Adidas. Shoes were placed neatly on the ground, with bags and belts displayed on a rack nearby.

merci parisThe designer section.

merci parisSome interesting wall decorations along the stairwell.

The main clothing area is where you'll find the majority of the (new) designer pieces, including Stella McCartney, Isabel Marant, Barbara Bui, Azzaro, Acne, Jerome Dreyfuss and many more who are waiving their profits for a good cause. Some of these are exclusive store-only items, such as the famous YSL safari jackets, which have been reissued in khaki and white. There was also an impressive selection of menswear, and the old-school couches, vintage furniture and other memorabilia made it a fun place to browse.

merci parisMenswear (lower image: commeuncamion.com).

The upper level contained mainly furniture, as well as some stationary, a haberdashery corner and a room for children's wear.

merci parisFurniture on the upper level (left), along with some beautiful art (right).

merci parisFell in love with this two-seater (left) and more furniture (right).

merci parisOverview of the remaining upper level area (left) and stationary + suitcases (right).

merci parisThe haberdashery section (left) with a nice selection of colorful buttons (right).

merci parisThe children's section with a very cute elephant (left). View of the ground floor from above (right).

The first few times I came here, I never realized there was a lower level as well. This is the place to come if you need household and kitchen items, whether it's a broom, a few light bulbs or a salad bowl. Towards the back you'll find the restaurant, with a wonderful view of the back garden.

merci parisLower level kitchenware (left) and cantine (right).

But the most cosy place to sit and have a drink or snack is probably the library on the ground floor, which has been designed to resemble an old-fashioned literary cafe. Entire walls are covered in second-hand books, with prices ranging from 3-10 EUR. Tables and chairs can be found in the main area, surrounded by more books, a perfect place to dive into a novel and enjoy a hot cup of coffee.

merci parisThe library (left) leading into the cafe (right).

And finally, if you suddenly feel the urge to recreate the look of Merci's interiors, but can't redecorate your entire apartment or house just yet, head over to the flower department, where you'll find everything from potted plants to impressive floral arrangements courtesy of the very talented florist.

The area on the left leads right into the flower shop.

Throughout the store, you'll find 'merci' printed on the wall, under which several names or companies are listed, a way for the owners to thank those who have provided the goods on sale. If you haven't noticed by now, this is the ultimate place to do some guilt-free shopping. My friend V. is currently in town for a visit and this is the first place I dragged her to. Some might be suspicious of the fact that a charity store could be so big, clean and design-oriented, but to be honest, it's probably a smart move to get people to shop here in the first place. A small dingy shop, that's cramped full of stuff is less likely to get this much attention or a lot of visitors, so I say: a brilliant idea and merci beaucoup!

Address: 111 boulevard Beaumarchais, 75003 Paris
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-19:00

Merci Homepage