Manoush (Paris, France)

I remember the first time I saw a Manoush item in person. My friend J. and I were in a department store (Printemps), on a floor that sold predominantly French brands ranging from Maje to Zadig & Voltaire, the majority of which are defined by their chic rock or 80s inspired casual looks. In the middle of this we spotted an oasis of bright colors, frills, lace and gold, rivaled only by the hippy Antik Batik located next to it. J. gasped, pulling out a neon pink lace dress with ruffles and embroidered with gold thread, held it up and asked me under which circumstances someone would wear something like that. My answer was "maybe if you're on a unicorn riding towards a rainbow". Weeks later, I spotted a few ad campaigns for the brand and realized I hadn't been that far off with my assumption.

SS09 ad campaigns.

If you like monochrome minimalist designs or goth-inspired looks, Manoush is possibly the kind of label that would make your head spin. At first glance, I wondered how anyone could purchase something from this brand without looking like a frilly bohemian cupcake, but to be honest, you'll have to take a closer look, because a lot of the items are very wearable and not as bizarre as you might think. Frédérique Trou-Roy, formerly an accessories designer for the French company Morgan, started Manoush (French slang for 'gypsy') in January 2003 after having embarked on an extensive journey through Marrakesh. She was instantly captivated by the colors, fragrances and fabrics, spending most of her time in local souks (markets) where she had craftsmen produce bags she had designed, while putting together other creations herself, including embellished willow baskets or Hands of Fatima decorations. She took these pieces back to Paris, where she soon found a buyer. She continued traveling to other places including Brazil (where her famous lingerie-laced mini dresses were born), India and other parts of Asia, each region inspiring different pieces which ended up in her collection.

Above: The Jalil Workshop. Below: Animals resuced by the Helga Heidrich charity with the designer (left).

These days you will find five standalone Manoush boutiques in Paris with several more around France, while the label is stocked in big-name stores such as Neiman Marcus, Kitson and Harvey Nichols. Frédérique who remains a bohemian at heart, thanks to her equally free-spirited father who would take her along on his travels to Africa, where they would have meals with wandering gypsies, describes her brand as being "poetic, bohemian, girly and some people would even say kitsch and this is quite true. I love anything that shines, sings out, sparkles and dances." She has however not forgotten the country that inspired her brand: each season the profits of one key item will go towards the Helga Heidrich charity which helps abandoned animals in Marrakesh (from donkeys, dogs and horses to peacocks and monkeys). In addition, Manoush uses the Moroccan Jalil workshops, a fair trade arrangement which enables women to work from home surrounded by their children while at the same time earning an income to support their families. These women are in charge of sewing and embroidering the majority of bags and accessories in the Manoush range.

Lots of pink and note the crystals hanging from the ceiling (left).

To fully appreciate the whimsical and colorful nature of the brand, there's nothing like visiting one of the Manoush boutiques, which are as quirky and girly as the clothes. The pictures here were taken in the Avenue Montaigne location, a pretty prestigious part of town and the most recent shop to have opened in Paris. If pink isn't your color, you might have a hard time appreciating the rose-colored walls, wallpaper and tiles that can be found around the retail space. Small disco balls and Swarovski crystals hanging from the ceiling reflected the spotlights nicely, making the store even brighter and more sparkly. Of course the glitziest items will still be the clothes. Some of them are honestly not my style... it reminded me of something a gypsy might wear if she appeared in a Bollywood production. I spied a turquoise dress that was adorned with large gold coins, lots of lace in pink and blue, as well as brocade floral items rivaling the wallpaper next to it.

Rose-patterned tile walls & disco balls (left) and more lace and ruffles (right).

At the time I went, the FW09 collection, which is dominated by blacks and grays, wasn't out yet, but I still found some fairly low-key items - mainly the beautiful silk maxi-dresses and black ruffled evening gowns. French musicians such as Olivia Ruiz (who is wearing Manoush on the cover of her album) and Vanessa Paradis are fans of the brand, and I can see why, as you'll find just the perfect mix of feminine and floaty pieces with an added bit of dazzle.

Mannequins sporting more wearable looks, standing on a bed of artificial roses (right).

The ground floor is where most of the main clothing collection is displayed, but one floor down is where you need to be if you're in search of some accessories. From what I could tell, the majority of these were inspired by the designer's trips to the Orient and Africa. The Hand of Fatima (which also happens to be the brand logo) was prominently featured on many items, especially bags and clutches. Only one rack along a wall had a few more clothes, including a very soft leather jacket with an intricately crafted brooch on the collar.

Accessories and more clothes on the lower level.

The lower level resembled an indoor market, with trinkets and decorations scattered around, including porcelain animals, various books and embroidered cushions. Many of these items are vintage souvenirs from trips taken by the designer and they definitely help give the boutiques the vibe of being in an exotic country.

Vintage decor and more accessories.

Heading back up, I took a quick look at the jewelry, which was displayed in a small (pink of course) cabinet. Right above that, videos from the Manoush campaign were running on a big screen.

A unicorn on the big-screen near the jewelry cabinet.

Sales assistants were scurrying around tidying the place up and while I was there, workers were installing more disco balls and crystal decorations, so by now the store might be even more glam than it was when I visited. Not all the pieces are things I'd necessarily wear, but I did find a lot I wouldn't mind having in my wardrobe. And the girly part of me just loves the store - it's such a nice change from the usual sterile environment you find in most other places. Definitely worth a visit if you get the chance. And if you're not familiar with the brand, a number of retailers (including online sites such as ASOS or Revolve Clothing) stock their items, so check it out if you get a chance.

SS09 (above) and FW09 looks (images: Manoush).

Address: 16 avenue Montaigne, 75008 Paris
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-19:00
Manoush Homepage