IVANAhelsinki (Helsinki, Finland)

While most designers (and shoppers) tend to gravitate towards darker colors and a more muted palette during the winter months, bright hues and/or patterns tend to do the best job of cheering you up when skies are gray. I'm incredibly wary and very picky about prints and the colors I choose to wear, but when done right, the perfect combination of both can lead to a timeless piece you'll treasure forever. IVANAhelsinki, like most Scandinavian brands, shows a love for quirky prints, structured silhouettes and cheerful accessories. But it's the perfect blend of cute, cool and avant-garde that makes the designs more wearable and stylish. It would explain why this was and still is the only Finnish brand to have ever presented at Paris Fashion Week. All I know is that after plodding through the freezing cold of Helsinki last December, the flagship boutique provided a very welcome retreat, where adorable dresses and edgy structured coats made me forget all about the depressing cold climate.

Looks from the FW09 'Star Rain' collection (images: IVANAhelsinki). Click to enlarge.

Paula Ivana Suhonen started the label together with her sister Pirjo in 1998. Originally conceived to be an art project (and she still refers to IVANAhelsinki as an 'art brand'), it represents what she calls 'Fennofolk' - a combination of 'Slavic melancholy and pure Scandinavian mood with white arctic summer nights and endless winter sadness'. If you hadn't noticed by now, this is a label for dreamers - those who love moonlit skies, champagne and butterflies, but also take road trips on their motorbikes, run off to the circus and fall in love with the wrong guy, i.e. a girly girl at heart who also likes to live on the edge. It's not surprising that many of the pieces are inspired by Northern legends and sagas, dark tales or even the cinema. Suhonen herself has developed everything from prints and graphics (she has created designs for big companies like HP or Google) to short movies and anything else in the visual arts category. With high ethical and ecological principles, all pieces are made in workshops throughout Finland, with a focus on traditional handmade details where possible.

The printed sharp-shouldered dress (left) and glitzy stars in the window (right).

Overview of the ground floor space (left) and accessories on the center table (right).

The store tends to reflect the theme of the current collection. In this case the FW09 collection titled 'Star Rain' was represented by a very eye catching window display which featured disco ball stars and a cute sharp-shouldered print dress. The first example of a piece that fuses a charming pattern with tailoring that is a little more cutting edge. The boutique itself may seem small at first glance, but comprises of two floors. The ground level proved that Nordic design isn't just about prints. An entire wall displayed nothing but blacks and blues... in some cases the prints featured were very toned-down (such as the navy stars on a black background as seen in the collage) or completely non-existent, as was the case with the ruched black dresses and structured coats.

If you're not a fan of prints, don't worry... entire racks were filled with black, blue and cream pieces (left). Star print coin purses and cute key chains (right).

The more colorful items on the other side of the room (left), a matryoshka print scarf and gold button cardigan (right).

Details such as golden buttons on chunky knit cardigans or statement belts adorned a few outfits, adding a little extra to a look. For more accessories, a large table in the center showcased purses with a bird pattern, matryoshka doll tights or reflective Bambi key chains. The midnight blue walls meant to represent the starry sky added a nice touch.

The FW09 collection in the basement.

Runway pics in a makeshift lookbook (left) and more purses (right).

The basement is where most of the FW09 collection could be found and if you missed out on Chanel or YSL's star prints a few seasons ago, this is the best place to get a less costly alternative. Gold stars could be found on ruffled navy denim dresses, silver ones on oversized t-shirts, and smaller ones on knit skirts or asymmetric large-shouldered outfits. In some cases the print was very subtle, in others it was bold enough to make a statement. The beauty of these clothes was that the prints never looked old-fashioned or outdated - mainly because they were done right, but also because the tailoring was so modern, the clothes couldn't possible look too quaint.

Cardboard stars added to the FW theme, while a TV showed short movies (left) and more accessories, incl. scarves and tights.

Bright reds mingled with purples, blues and greens. There was a lot of black and gray as well, and half the collection lacked any pattern or featured embroidery. Knits were prominently displayed, and anyone who missed out on the IVANAhelsinki @ Topshop collection two years ago, can do some catching up now. Items that at first glance may seem boring, revealed an intricate knit pattern or a hidden ruffle. Always feminine, but never dull... and definitely the perfect pieces to put a smile on your face during the winter period.

Star prints dominated many of the items, but there were also plenty of simple knits and block colors.

For more inspiration, a large binder highlighting images of the FW09 show could be found in the center and a TV in the corner showed a few short movies inspired by the current collection (this can also be viewed on the homepage). Before leaving, I also spied a few of the more regular FW trends, including beige and black houndstooth knits. Only a few SS10 pieces were available for viewing at the time: the 'Leaving Circus' collection included turquoise and pink graphic prints, orange skirts with a horse pattern, purple playsuits, airy LBDs and sparkly tops.

Soft knits, some printed (right), others a little more subtle (left) against a gilded brick wall.

I couldn't find any stockist information on the official homepage, but supposedly the collections are available in select outlets worldwide and the official homepage comes with a small online boutique. A few other online stores have a small range available as well (e.g. Belinka, The Moon & Mars or Huset-Shop). Of course visiting the actual boutique is always recommended - I can only imagine how fun the current circus theme would look like...

Looks from the SS10 'Leaving Circus' collection, complete with scary clown eye-makeup (images: IVANAhelsinki).

Address: Uudenmaankatu 15, 00100 Helsinki
Opening Hrs: Mon-Fri: 11:00-19:00, Sat: 11:00-16:00
IVANAhelsinki Homepage & Online-Shop

Marimekko (Helsinki, Finland)

Prints and patterns are a tricky thing when it comes to clothing and accessories. When I lived in Hamburg and Amsterdam, I was surrounded by Scandinavian boutiques that sold nothing but the bold colorful designs some of the Nordic brands are so famous for. Despite my love of block colors at the time, I found myself drawn to these creations, and before I knew it, I had purchased over a dozen dresses in the most vivid patterns available - everything from retro to floral found a place in my wardrobe. Even though I could have gone on to buy a dozen more pieces, I did end up stopping when I one day tried on a dress in a boutique, glanced at the mirror and realized I looked like human wallpaper. Unfortunately the danger in cloaking yourself in certain prints is that you will end up resembling a walking version of other popular patterned items, whether it's grandmother's curtains, your own polka-dot carpet or those colorful plates you've been eyeing in the homeware section.

Marimekko's FW09 collection by designer Samu-Jussi Koski (images: Marimekko).

FW09 collection by Mika Piirainen, Ritva Falla & Rinne-Niinikoski (images: Marimekko).

A safe bet when it comes to choosing patterned pieces is to go with something classic and this is where Marimekko has undoubtedly got the lead. An institution and household name not only in its home country Finland, but also on a global level, the clothing and textile company was founded back in 1951 by Viljo Ratia and his wife Armi who commissioned young artists to design fabric prints for the company. This resulted in a wide array of colorful bold patterned textiles, which were admired by many, but few knew what to do with them. In order to demonstrate their use, a small clothing collection was launched, designed by Riitta Immonen. Other designers soon joined the team, including Maija Isola who later created (amongst others) the famous Unikko graphic. By the mid 50s, exports began to the rest of Europe and the U.S. The biggest breakthrough came when Jacqueline Kennedy - criticized (mainly by her husband) for her love of Parisian Couture, which sparked fears she may alienate the American public - one day walked into a Cape Cod boutique and purchased eight dresses by an unknown Finnish brand. She wore these pieces throughout JFK's Presidential campaign and was famously snapped in a simple pink outfit alongside her husband for the cover of Sports Illustrated. The public loved it, JFK won the election and Marimekko shot to fashion fame.

Jacqueline Kennedy made Marimekko a househould name in the 60s by wearing the famous pink dress on the cover of Sports Illustrated (top left) and sporting the other seven dresses throughout the Presidential campaign. SATC's Carrie was partially responsible for the brand's revival, donning a chic number (right) while her apartment included a Marimekko curtain (lower left).

Being a textile company, Marimekko soon began applying their fabrics to everything imaginable, whether it was curtains, linen or kitchen ware. After Armi Ratia's death in 1979 the company flourished for a few years, then went through a few financial difficulties lasting until the 90s. Thanks to Kirsti Paakkanen who later took on as CEO, Marimekko grew again and even regained its fame in the popular media. SJP catapulted the brand into the must-have list of every fasionista when she not only wore a Marimekko bikini in Season 2 of SATC, but also sported a colorful dress later on and had her apartment decorated in its prints. But even without its famous clients, it's hard to resist the bright patterns this brand offers.

The festive entrance (left) and an assortment of items towards the front (right).

Overview of the ground floor which housed mainly clothing (left). Some of the patterned dresses and coats (right).

As Helsinki is Marimekko's hometown, finding one of their boutiques here isn't really difficult. In fact, it might probably be your first stop if you ever visit. I went to two stores on the Pohjoiseplanadi, but would recommend the larger retail space in the Kämp Galleria. The grand pillared entrance with its elegant white walls contrasted nicely with the vivid colored prints that greeted you. A fair warning: if you're not into bright hues, you might want to skip this one. Despite being a company that offers everything from tea cups to curtains, Marimekko's clothing won't make you look like the aforementioned human wallpaper.

Mannequins wearing patterned and non-patterned pieces (left). Of course the changing rooms are decorated in the signature prints as well (right).

Smaller items on the center tables included socks (middle), mittens (top right) and scarves (lower right).

While some of the dresses may never find their way into my wardrobe, most of the monochrome prints would work very well in an urban environment. Many of the clothes don't even feature prints, so you won't have a problem finding a simple velvet blazer or a pair of black cotton trousers. The most classic of prints - the various striped dresses and knits - had their own section on the lower level along with the homewares, and if you are still wary about patterns, you can always go with the colorful tights, socks or scarves.

For a more classic look, there's a large selection of striped tops, dresses and pyjamas on the lower level..

A section dedicated to the little ones.

The ultimate gifts for your pet (left) and more cute pieces including striped toys (top) and little knit dolls (lower right).

The more tempting items tend to be the gifts and bags. There were tables filled with cosmetic pouches, wooden jewelry, umbrellas and even small Marimekko dolls. I sighted poppy-printed stationary, pop-art paper napkins and an entire children's section which included toys, small suitcases and dinner sets. If you don't have kids, don't worry - besides spending money on yourself you can also spoil your pet with everything from chic water bowls, rugs or even a little bed.

Bed linen, cosmetic bags and dining sets.

Overview of the lower level (left). A selection of cushions, cups and trays in the Unikko print (right).

The large fabric and wallpaper department.

One of the largest sections was the homeware and interior design department. Beware that entering this area will result in a sudden urge to redecorate your entire house or apartment. As witnessed by yours truly, who couldn't stop drooling over tablecloths, cushions or bed linen... all of which came in well over 20 different designs not to mention the fabric or wallpaper - entire rolls of these were available in a far corner.

Bags and purses in various prints, including the iconic Unikko pattern.

A selection of more patterned goodies, such as (top row) card holders, jewelry, napkins, linen pouches, (lower row) coin purses, wallets and cosmetic bags.

I could go on and on, but I'll just let the pictures do the talking. Thankfully Marimekko is easy to find throughout the world, with independently owned concept stores or stockists situated on all continents and online sales available as well (such as here). The perfect way to brighten a gloomy winter day if you ask me. The only problem will be choosing among the huge selection of prints...

Selection of Marimekko Home Interiors for the bedroom, living room, bathroom and kitchen (images: Marimekko).

Address: Kämp Galleria, Pohjoisesplandi 31, 00100 Helsinki
Opening Hrs: Mon-Fri: 10:00-20:00, Sat: 10:00-17:00
Marimekko Homepage

Hanna Sarén (Helsinki, Finland)

I'm finally back home and very glad the traveling is over, seeing as I had yet another delayed and missed flight on my way back. Which might not have been as bad if both my Significant Other and I hadn't managed to catch a cold in Hong Kong. Being ill while traveling for almost a day really isn't fun. But not to worry... if anything can brighten a day, it's beautiful clothes and accessories, right? Thankfully finding something fun and chic in Helsinki was an easy task. Like most of Scandinavia, Finland is renowned for its cutting-edge, modern design (not just in fashion). But aside from being avant-garde, the North also has a love of all things colorful, bold and patterned, which is why you'll easily find items with typical retro or winter prints.

Stills from the FW09 campaign film.

Hanna Sarén, one of Finland's most popular designers is a master of both, creating experimental pieces that are wearable and fun. Starting out in 2000 when she first made bags and clogs which were presented in Japan, she quickly rose to fame, partially because SJP wore her designs (clogs and a purse) in an episode of SATC. Soon after, Sarén started a women's wear collection, focusing on beautiful tailoring, quality materials and detailed finishing. Together with her partner and husband Jussi Tiilikka, a boutique was opened in Helsinki in 2006. Following the launch of a menswear and a children's collection Sarén also participated in numerous side projects, such as a collaborations with Swarovski or the fashion chain Seppälä.

A beautiful dress and cute accessories in the store windows. Statement necklaces featuring cats and other animals on the lower right.

Considering how hard it is to find Sarén's pieces in stores throughout the world, visiting this boutique was at the top of my list, which proved to be tricky because of the limited opening hours of Finnish indie shops during the weekends. After two failed attempts, which left me drooling at the store windows but nothing more, I finally managed to drop by on a Monday morning. While I had managed to get a pretty good idea of the adorable accessories, such as the quirky leather statement necklaces featuring cats or dogs and a great assortment of keychains during previous window shopping stopovers, I couldn't wait to check out the FW09 collections, since the website only featured a short film on the current range instead of a lookbook or campaign images.

Patterned socks by the window (left) and a mannequin sporting a fun statement necklace (right).

Overview of the front area featuring the women's collection (left). Ruffled dresses and cosy knits as worn by mannequins, and some of the famous clogs on the table (right).

The boutique itself was kept very minimal, but far from being boring or cold, items were suspended from simple racks like works of art. The first obvious pieces were those already visible from the outside: thigh-high patterned tights and socks plus a few bags hung from a steel bar at the window. A few minutes after entering the store, a guy came in to purchase one of the floral socks.... I'll just assume they're a gift for a female companion or relative. Towards the other end of the store, where most of the women's range was on display, more items floated from the ceiling, surrounded by a few mannequins sporting this season's looks. The beautiful black chiffon dress featuring turquoise ruffles was an eye-catcher, as were the cropped jackets in cream or black.

More mannequins and floating cropped jackets.

Shoes in a row and details of a ruffled dress (left), cute prints on scarves (middle) and a few brocade skirts (right).

If you love your shoes though, you'll soon notice plenty of them, aligned in a row under each of the three racks of women's clothes. A few of the famous clogs could be found on the tables near the front. In addition to the draped floaty dresses, luxurious wool coats and brocade skirts, all of which were very wearable but never boring, I also spotted the quirkier more charming items, including the scarves or capes featuring cute Nordic prints such as snowflakes and reindeer. Another must-have accessory was the rhino handbag, which would probably go really well with the matching rhino statement necklace in the glass case near the cash desk. If you're not into rhinos some of the other jewelry items featured other animals, whether it was a giraffe or a a cat. Silver pieces were also available courtesy of the Japanese label Atomic Number 47.

View of the spacious back area of the store (left) and the ultimate statement piece... the rhino purse (right).

View of the store and the cash desk area from the back. That's the guy who purchased the patterned socks by the way (left). Some of the items on display in the cash desk, incl. a giraffe brooch and other jewelry (right).

The back area showcased the menswear range which included both Sarén's own designs and a small selection of pieces by French-Peruvian fair trade label, Misericordia. Again, some of the more rustic prints were featured on the cardigans and other knitwear, but there was also a huge range of classic coats, shirts and trousers, all with special details, whether it was the asymmetrical cut, colorful seams or a finshing of pearlized paint for that extra sheen. The festive season was highlighted by a cute toy penguin sitting in the middle of the room.

Menswear, bags and belts in the back area.

One of the biggest attractions however was the vintage selection at the other end. Sarén recently launched a project that allowed consumers, who had previously acquired one of her items they no longer needed, to return them to her. She would then rework the piece which would be sold to the general public. Examples include a damaged black dress which is now a ruffled blouse, a yellow clutch that was transformed into a tote with a clear plastic handle, transparent trousers that have been reworked to include silk black boxers as a lining and a distressed cream jacket which was given a new life as a sleek corset. A comprehensive diary of every vintage project is available on the official homepage if you want to know more about the background and construction of each piece. There were also a few more lovely items such as the gorgeous silk dresses which possibly belong to the bespoke line that was recently launched as well.

A penguin surrounded by bags (left) and overview of the other side of the store featuring the vintage items (right).

Some of the vintage items for sale (left) and beautiful silk dresses - not sure from which collection.

I didn't pay much attention to the spacious changing rooms, until I realized that their curtains looked a bit odd. It seems these were adorned with some of the vintage items as well, though I'm not entirely sure if these are actually for sale. Nevertheless, it was an interesting touch.

At first glance this looked like a pieced together curtain, but it actually consists of garments such as skirts and blouses.

If you're a fan of the label or just looking for something more unique, then this is the place to be. The store is welcoming despite its modernity and the sales person I met turned out to be Sarén's husband himself, making the experience all the more homey. Seeing as how the pieces are everything from quirky and fun to cool, edgy and beautiful, there's probably something to suit every taste. Unfortunately I'm not sure how readily available these items are outside Finland, as I couldn't find any stockists information on the homepage. But I've been told that select retailers worldwide do carry the brand, so keep your eyes peeled. If anything though, this is one of the best excuses to visit Helsinki if you get the chance.

Some of the reworked clothes from the Vintage line. See the top left for examples of how some pieces looked before their makeover.

Address: Fredrikinkatu 45, 00100 Helsinki
Opening Hrs: Mon-Fri: 11:00-18:00, Sat: 11:00-15:00
Hanna Sarén Homepage

Impressions of Helsinki (Finland)

Sorry for the lack of updates, but after spending 12 hours in Paris CDG airport last week due to cancelled and delayed flights (we did manage to get the only flight out to London that day), I was too exhausted and stressed for time to post too much while in the UK. Thankfully Helsinki, which was our extended stop-over destination to Hong Kong, knows how to deal with snow way better than most European countries. In fact, London and Paris might want to take a few pointers from Scandinavia when it comes to clearing airport runways and roads, considering they've had more than double the amount of snowfall but never had to cancel a single flight.

Statue of Johan Ludvig Runeberg on Esplanadi surrounded by the Christmas Market.

Two days probably wasn't enough time to see too much of Finland's capital, especially when most of it was covered in snow. Despite the below-freezing temperatures (the average was -10°C, approx. 14°F while I was there), it was still beautiful to wander around and considering Santa supposedly hails from the Finnish Lapland, the atmosphere was definitely very Christmassy. Like it's other Scandinavian counterparts, Finland is known for innovative and cool design, whether it's architecture, fashion or furniture. There are few luxury flagships but plenty of indie designers and sleek modern furniture or home decor stores, making it a great place to source some unique items. I'll probably visit again when it's warmer as it was quite difficult to get an idea of what the city looked like with snowflakes flying horizontally in my face...

The Helsinki Cathedral.

The nearby Government Palace.

The large avenues of Pohjoisesplanadi.

One of the many high street shopping areas.

The Christmassy shopping windows of local department store Stockmann.

Helsinki is one of the few places where the ports, harbors and lakes partially freeze over.

The Uspenski Cathedral

On my way to an indie boutique I sighted this beautiful stone building.

Oh Christmas tree....

The Christmas Market along Esplanadi.

Some of the Christmas Market snacks, including grilled sausages and fish (top), grilled mini sardines (lower left) and almonds covered in cinnamon sugar (lower right).

St. John's Church.

P.S. Thanks for all the lovely comments which I will be getting back to asap. And in case I don't get to post by Friday, I wish you all a Merry Christmas!