Bolongaro Trevor (London, UK)

The great thing about the UK is that it hasn't just given us a great number of innovative and creative designers, but it's also one of the few places where even high street brands are known to push the envelope instead of just following existing trends. One of my favorite retail labels has always been All Saints, known for their cool and edgy 'grunge meets glam' style. But as the brand became more and more popular and its founders Kait Bolongaro and Stuart Trevor became more wary and tired of (as the JC Report puts it) the 'homogenization and mass production of a post-millenial high street', they sold their stake in All Saints and founded Bolongaro Trevor instead - as an antidote to your typical retail brand if you will.

A selection from the FW09 lookbook (images: Bolongaro Trevor).

The aim was to provide consumers with consciously designed limited-edition clothing. If you're sick of seeing your neighbor or colleagues sport the same Topshop dress you just bought, you might want to give this brand a try. Even though Bolongaro Trevor is now available in several countries (including the U.S.), clothing and accessories are still produced in limited quantities as higher-end labels would do. The All Saints aesthetic remains to an extent: you'll find a lot of edgier, asymmetric or distressed outfits in the collection - but the quality is much better and as such, the pricing is marginally higher as well. While All Saints will still look visibly 'high street' in some cases, Bolongaro Trevor's pieces can easily be mistaken for designer. In fact, the first few items I held in my hand were a dead ringer for Vivienne Westwood's Anglomania line. Not surprisingly, the brand has a huge following with everyone from Agyness Deyn, Daisy Lowe or Courtney Love declaring themselves as fans of the label.

Overview of the front area of the store (left). A selection of memorabilia and a cool scarf (right).

Make no mistake though: even if the goal was to create a more sophisticated brand, the style is still very young, fresh and not boring in the least. The first collection was for AW07 and since then, the label has been careful to embrace the trends without following them too closely. You will find plaid skirts, but the asymmetric tulip-shaped cut will be different from what any other company is doing at the moment. Likewise, ruffles are given a more playful ballerina-inspired makeover or in some cases a harder edge, as seen on the ruffled leather pencil skirt. Currently Bolongaro Trevor only has one flagship in the world - located in the heart of London just off Carnaby Street. Considering how interesting the pieces are, I wasn't surprised that the store itself was pretty quirky as well.

The FW09 collection in-store (left), a leather jacket and a burgundy bag (right).

The shop is divided into two areas, the first of which looked pretty unspectacular, except for the few taxidermy birds I found sitting on random shelves. This is the area where the mainline collection is housed. The layout was quite straightforward and if the lighting had been harsher, you might have mistaken the interior for an American Apparel outlet. Taking a closer look though, this store is nothing like AA of course. For starters, walls are adorned with various antique-looking paintings. Curtains of the changing rooms feature the Union Jack and memorabilia such as a vintage pin-up calenders are strewn around the store. I spied some great leather jackets and skirts, beautiful silk dresses and a lot of cool draped tops.

A few examples of taxidermy in the front area (left) and a great selection of belts and bags at the cash desk (right).

The more interesting decor can be found in the back room which is home to Bolongaro Trevor Resurrection. The theme seems to be taxidermy, with everything from a giant swan to tiger heads displayed in various glass cases. There were more old paintings and antique statues or other trinkets and a small amount of religious memorabilia - many of these were for sale, though a lot of the taxidermy was just decoration. Most of these items I was told are by the artist Sophie Dickens (the great, great, great, granddaughter of Charles Dickens) and it's the store's intention to display and sell works by other artists as well in the future.

The 'Resurrection' range in the back room (left) and taxidermy at its finest (right).

Old paintings and more vintage clothes (left) and antique religious memorabilia near the sale section (right).

According to a press release, the interior is "a magnetic magpie in a junk yard store, fused with a Frankenstein disregard for rules/correctness.... all elements recycled and forced together by the mind of a mad man", i.e. it's a little crazy. All the 'Resurrection' clothing here is vintage and stems from the founder's 15 year archive. Pieces include Victorian lace bodices, Napoleonic battle jackets and even bus driver uniforms. Some of the vintage also come courtesy of Pearl Lowe who's collection is now available in-store. Because the items are carefully selected, you won't have to sift through a lot, which is great for someone like me who usually gets overwhelmed in London's huge vintage emporiums.

More taxidermy and a few old wooden dolls...

Towards the end of this room I also found a few racks with discounted clothes from last season. Definitely a good place to look, as I sighted a lot of great tops and skirts in my size but for only a fraction of the original price. If you can pry yourself away from the distracting decor, I'd also look out for the impressive selection of belts near the cash desk at the front and some of the men's scarves which again feature the Union Jack symbol.

A few men's tees on sale (left), a cheetah head and a swan (right).

Despite the fact that the store looks quite packed, it's actually very easy and pleasant to browse. The junkyard vibe only applies to the glass cases and displays, but the clothes are always easily accessible. Highly recommended if you love All Saints but need something a little more unique or different. Bolongaro Trevor is also available at Urban Outfitters (UK) and other shops around the world, but the great news is that you won't have to leave your house to shop their collections, as they've just launched their online store. Unfortunately the Resurrection range isn't available via the web, but I'm sure their regular range of clothing will make up for it.

Address: 61 Broadwick Street., London W1
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-19:00, Sun: 12:00-18:00
Bolongaro Trevor Homepage

All Saints (London, UK)

A few years ago during a trip to the UK when I was still relatively unfamiliar with some of the British high street stores (having not visited the country for several years), my then boyfriend (now hubby) excitedly told me he had found a place that stocked items resembling what Keanu Reeves could be seen wearing in 'The Matrix'. For a minute I was slightly concerned, visions of latex suits and clip-on sunglasses swirling through my brain. He then clarified that he was referring to the more distressed loose-fitted sweaters the 'Neo' character was sporting when he wasn't out and about fighting evil villains. I was intrigued, but figured the store would probably only feature one or two such items. I was very very wrong and have been a fan ever since.

Current All Saints campaign (images: All Saints)

All Saints might be high street, but if you didn't know better - and during my first visit I actually thought it was an independent boutique - you would think you just discovered another avant-garde label. The brand was founded by its original designer Stuart Trevor in 1994 initially only catering to menswear. Four years later the first women's collection followed and immediately garnered a strong fan base among style leaders who loved the draped jerseys, sexy structured tailoring and muted dark colors. According to Trevor "We were designing clothes that we wanted to wear and that we could not buy anywhere else. We became designers’ designers, all of the kids who dreamt of being cool fashion designers decided they were going to wear something that stood out from the crowd. People wanted something different.”

Even though Trevor ended up selling the company to retail entrepreneur Kevin Stanford in 2005, the clothing and accessories still remain unique and very cool. One could describe the range as grunge gone glam. Most items are either distressed, torn/ripped, asymmetrical or tailored in such a unique way, they're bound to stand out. If you're a fan of color, this isn't the brand for you. All clothes are either black or come in dark colors and neutrals. The beauty of the pieces lie in the details though: if it's not the fine draping or sheer chiffon fabrics, it's usually the intricate beading, fine embroidery or bold studding that will make each item not only wearable but in some cases even suitable for the red carpet.

The store design itself is what makes All Saints a true experience though. I decided to head to the main store in the East End, but rest assured that all boutiques have the same feel. 'Spitalfields' tends to be added to the All Saints brand name to remind people of it's roots - even though All Saints was derived from a street name in Notting Hill. The interior is every bit as alternative as the clothes: exposed brick walls, carefully aged wooden floorboards and furniture combined with lots of dark steel and iron give the store a very industrial feel. Headless mannequins hang from solid metal chains in the shop window and throughout the store, while select items are draped from hooks instead of clothes hangers. All Saints used to feature a lot of religious iconography (the most famous one being the Jesus statues) but have toned it down a little, I'm assuming due to the outcry that resulted the previous times.

If you do find something you like, my advice is to buy it right then and there. Even though I like to wait for sales and nothing is really that cheap (but therefore well-made), All Saints is one of those places people don't mind paying the full price for and regular sizes (anything that isn't the smallest or largest size) of more popular items tend to sell out fast. I spotted the softest studded leather jacket, which I would have loved to try on, but was no longer available in my size. I also remember that last year's parachute dress sold out instantly and to this day, my hubby still regrets not having bought that 'Neo' sweater.

If you want something on-trend, no worries - you'll find everything from the jumpsuit to harem trousers in the current collection. The great thing about this brand is that it won't look like another carbon copy of a high-end designer's runway collection. Even the printed tank tops are unique, so nothing you find here will resemble a knock-off which is something too many other retail giants seem to be doing these days.

By the way, don't be intimidated by the changing rooms even if they look like prison cells. They are actually quite roomy and SA's are happy to help you with the styling. You might want to free at least an hour for browsing or trying on clothes as well. Because some pieces are uniquely constructed, they aren't always the easiest to try on. I found a cool silk dress with a slightly goth vibe I spent 10 minutes trying to get on, then realized it was the wrong way round. For the next 10 minutes, I then attempted to fasten all the hooks and zippers until I finally had it on. It looked great, but was a bit too short, which was a shame because I would have preferred to leave it on instead of trying to maneuver out of it again. Thankfully an SA was there to help.

One thing I did notice was that All Saints has branched out into homeware. I only saw a few cushions and candles, but I was told they also stocked wallpaper and blankets, which is probably enough to give your home an All Saints feel if the clothes aren't enough. I would also like to point out that the accessories are well worth looking at. The majority of the shoes consist of slouchy boots and gladiator sandals, while the handbags are made of the softest leather and feature studs, fringes or buckles.

This brand might be a bit too rock 'n' roll for some, but I for one am glad that there's a high street retailer out there who's still producing unique, innovative pieces you won't find elsewhere. Unfortunately most stores are located in the UK, with a few select outlets in other European cities. The good news is that many items can be purchased directly from their website and will be delivered worldwide, so definitely take a look if you get the chance.

Leather Jackets by All Saints
Heels by All Saints

Click on products to purchase or see more.

Address: Jacks Place, 114 Commercial Street, London E1 6NF
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 9:30-20:00, Sun: 11:00-19:00
All Saints Homepage and Online Shop