Yohji Yamamoto at the V&A - Exhibition (London, UK)

When Yohji Yamamoto mania first hit London a few months ago, I posted about two of the installations hosted by The Wapping Project (Yohji's Women and Yohji Making Waves), which you can read about here. The main event however was the actual Yohji Yamamoto exhibition at the V&A - and if you're a Londoner or a London tourist who hasn't seen it yet, I'd strongly urge you to go, as it closes this week. Like most exhibits I've visited at the V&A so far (including the Grace Kelly showcase), the main presentation was confined to a relatively small area in Room 38. On display were over 60 of Yamamoto's pieces along with a multimedia timeline, revealing the designer's wider creative output. Unlike most exhibitions however, the pieces weren't grouped chronologically, as Yamamoto often cited his works as being timeless rather than seasonal. While some mannequins were arranged in groups, these clusters acted as subtle pointers to a certain theme, such as layering or androgyny to name a few.

But the biggest difference about the exhibit is probably the fact that visitors were invited to walk among the designs and could freely touch or examine the garments, which weren't hidden behind glass panels or barriers. It made sense considering Yamamoto's love of textures, fabrics and volume - and it definitely added to the appreciation of his techniques.

A few Yohji pieces on display in the main exhibition space (left) and the multimedia timeline along the wall (right).

While Room 38 featured the bulk of the collection, the beauty of this exhibition was the addition of various satellite spaces, which showcased Yamamoto's work among V&A's permanent displays. In a way, this presentation almost proved to be more interesting given the surroundings and the way the clothing's textures and silhouettes mirrored the various tapestries, paintings or other works of art.

Though I did manage to snap a photo of every piece on display, I'll only post a selection here. The exhibition ends this Sunday, but if you don't get a chance to go, I'd highly recommend picking up this companion book.

Main Exhibition Space

Fine examples of pleating and other small details, such as button embroidery or exposed seams. Far left: Navy pleated skirt & integrated blue shirt, SS03. Far right: Black halter-neck with pleat detail SS05.

Long turquoise dress with open back and netting, FW96/97.

A few menswear looks - from left: Tartan shirt with integrated scarf-wrap, FW07/08; Coat with embroidered stars, FW06/07; Red dress coat, FW07/08 and Inside Out long jacket with embroidered back, FW09/10.

Left: Jacket, top and rotating polka dot skirt, FW07/08. Right: Checkered strapless top & skirt with crinoline, SS99.

From left: Deconstructed punk-inspired coat with zips, cropped top and cropped trousers, SS94; Long dress with top made of triangular patches gathered by metal chains, SS04; Cage corset, oversized jacket with kimono sleeves & long skirt, FW06/07.

From left: Pin-striped sleeveless suit jacket with unfinished seams, beaded date-jime kimono belt & blue yuzen-dyed skirt with floral print, SS02; Kimono-style draped dress with shibori-dyed detail, SS95; Asymmetric dress with yuzen-dyed multi-colored motifs, SS02.

Left: Yellow strapless silk dress & oversized coolie hat covered with draped silk, SS97. Right: White shirt-dress with long train & broderie anglaise ruffle detail at the back, SS07.

From left: Floral green, blue & orange velvet suit, black shirt with integrated bow, FW03/04; Multi-color printed suit, SS11; Floral pattern suit with metal flower brooches, FW98/99; Green coat with knitted front panel & 3/4-length trousers with purple piping, FW07/08.

From top left: Dress with structured cubic top & arm details, FW90/91; Asymmetric felt dress with crinoline, FW90/91; Sleeveless pleated dress in homage to Madame Grès, SS05; Boiled wool jacket with gathered front & long skirt, FW09/10; Tartan fringed jacket & hound's tooth check fringed skirt, FW03/04; Long-sleeved jumper & knitted skirt, FW98/99.

From left: Long asymmetric shirt-dress, SS05; Long zipped dress with open back & embroidered pattern cutting details, SS00; Satin suit with suspenders, SS99.

Left center: Ruffled cape & dress with crinoline in homage to Cristóbal Balenciaga, SS99. In the background: Tweed jacket & skirt with gathered waist, SS08/09; Hound's tooth check jacket with puffed lower sleeves & long skirt in homage to Dior. Right: Wool jumper over gray layered dress with exaggerated hip crinoline & toque hat, SS99.

Satellite Spaces

In the Hinze Sculpture Gallery: Jacket with quilting, FW09/10; Jacket with white embroidery, SS09; Suit jacket with lace back, SS09. Lower right: Overview of the space with all three jackets.

In the Norfolk House Music Room: Dress with open back & black skirt & dress with high collar, both FW96/97.

In the Paintings Gallery: Long sleeveless dress in homage to Pina Bausch, SS92.

In the Tapestry Gallery: Two long red coats with netting, long black gathered dresses with front pockets & black mesh tops; Black buttoned coat with netting. All from FW95/96.

In the British Galleries Landing: A selection of white shirts, dark suits & black dresses/skirts, all impeccably tailored for the woman, yet androgynous in shape (ranging from SS98 - SS05).

In the Ceramics Gallery: Coat, scarf & jumper with manga characters and trousers, FW07/08; Utility jacket & trousers, FW03/04; Screen-printed shirt & blue denim with white painted stripe, SS02.