COS (London, UK)

A while ago, I featured Reiss, one of the oldest premium high street retailers on the market, and mentioned how other big chains had started recognizing the trend for better quality collections by launching additional brands in their portfolios. Zara's Inditex group has long been a master of adding labels that cater to virtually any target group out there and its most high-end line Massimo Dutti has long proved to be quite successful in Europe. H&M followed this move in 2007, when it created COS, short for 'Collection of Style', opening the first store in London's Regent Street in March that year. The goal wasn't to replace H&M, but to give consumers the option of 'trading up' or targeting shoppers who would never set foot in the sister brand's store.

A few looks from the FW09 campaign (images: COS).

According to Rebekka Bay, Creative Director of women's wear at COS "the focus is quality in terms of the fabrics, fit and finish. It’s ready-to-wear level design at high street prices." Meaning that COS provides an alternative to luxury brands rather than the cheaper retail chains, giving those, who would prefer to stock up on investment pieces but don't want to break the bank doing so, a great substitute. For those who are sick of clothing that falls apart after a few months, dislike the fact that most things you buy end up being worn by half the population or simply want something that won't go out of fashion within a month, COS is one of the best places to go.

Structured and draped pieces - FW09 campaign (images: COS).

I must confess though, the first time I visited COS at the launch of its new store in Hamburg, Germany - an opening that was incredibly hyped - I was severely disappointed. All the clothes looked rather bland and shapeless to me. I viewed them as too 'grown-up' and in some cases the look was too 'office wear' for my taste. Subsequent visits cemented this view in my mind and it wasn't until a stylist I worked with confided that this was the brand of choice for magazine editors seeking an outfit for Fashion Week, I actually went in the store and tried on dresses and jackets for the first time. Apparently the secret to COS... like most labels that focus more on tailoring than embellishments, is that the clothes don't look like much on the hanger, but unfold their beauty once worn. The boring dress turned out to hug every curve just perfectly, the weird structured coat looked like something Jil Sander designed and the potato sack top actually had a slimming effect. I left the store with two big shopping bags and have been a fan ever since.

Overview of the store as seen from the entrance (left image: COS).

Monochrome pieces range from basics to more standout looks, such as the rhinestone jacket (top) and studded dress (lower right).

The first London flagship isn't just the oldest store, but also the one that best captures the typical interiors you'll find when paying COS a visit, which is why I chose to feature this location over the Paris boutique. Putting William Russell - who's clients include big names like Alexander McQueen - in charge of the store design was another step in creating a more luxurious shopping experience. While everything looks quite sleek and simple, you won't find tables cluttered with unfolded tops, racks that are overfilled and difficult to browse or shelves that are crammed so close together you keep bumping into the shopper next to you. The wooden furniture, leafy plants and spacious seating areas give off a contemporary yet welcoming atmosphere, while the big windows allow for a mostly natural store lighting.

View of the cash desk (left) and the more colorful section towards the back (right).

The jewelry shelf near the cashier (left) and more formal looks in another corner (right).

Unfortunately many of COS' lookbook or campaign images might give the feeling the collections are a little serious or uninteresting, which is why I did my best to capture a few of their statement pieces as well. While bigger chains tend to embrace the most easy to copy trends, whether it's studs, big shoulders or animal prints, COS has chosen a general aesthetic for its collections, striving for looks that are reminiscent of the aforementioned Jil Sander (structured coats and jackets), Martin Margiela (asymmetric dresses and loose knits), Dries van Noten and Marni (colorful modern prints) and Yohji Yamamoto (clean, cool, sport chic clothing). Whether it's reinvented classics or the latest trends, all the pieces have a modern and understated edgy feel to them, with a preference for soft natural fibres and luxurious materials.

The perfect place for your bored male partner... the very modern seating area overlooking Regent Street (right image: COS).

Heading on up... more chic clothing including the soft gray ruffled top.

Even though muted colors in black, gray, navy or khaki my initially dominate the floor space, there are plenty of printed dresses, bright knits and colorful Breton striped tops. As expected, I sighted many sharply tailored suits and structured coats, but heading towards the back, I also found rows of slouchy pullover dresses, ruffled tops, draped skirts and elegant evening gowns. The jewelry section is fairly small but always popular and the matte silver chain necklaces adorned most mannequins, though I was more fascinated by the cool chain mail pieces. COS also offers menswear and items for children, and one floor up I found a small area filled with lingerie and home wear.

Pastels, perfect for Spring... (left). The embellished sweater is part of SS10 and a Marni-esque dress currently on sale from FW09.

Even the menswear section had a seating area, although few women would ever get bored shopping...

Far from being boring, standout items included an eye catching, but not over-the-top, studded silk dress, a sweater with embellished shoulders and a very elegant black rhinestone encrusted cropped jacket. For more accessories, a few bags, ranging from metallic clutches to urban canvas totes are available and the shoes tend to be big sellers as well, especially the current season wedge boots and python print ballerinas. Pricing is of course higher than H&M, with dresses in the 50-100 EUR range and outerwear retailing for 80-230 EUR, making it comparable to other mid-level retailers such as French Connection or All Saints.

More menswear (left) and shiny clutches for her (right).

A few looks I spotted in-store, including... top row: watercolor prints (SS10 & FW09) a chain mail necklace (SS10). Bottom row:eyelet sweaters (SS10) , a knit that reminded me of FW09 Margiela (SS10) and geometric patterns (FW09).

Beware that shopping here can become addictive and outfits that are so easily mistaken for designer can be hard to find, so whether you're still searching for a Fashion Week outfit, a party dress or just a timeless garment you'll wear for years to come, COS is the best place to go. Unfortunately there are only a handful of boutiques in just seven European countries at the moment, with the UK and Germany leading in number of stores (and strangely none in Sweden). If H&M's expansion strategy is anything to go by, it may take a while yet for its sister brand to completely saturate Europe, let alone reach the U.S., Asia or even the online world, so make sure you visit if you're ever in the neighborhood of a COS store.

Accessorize your look.. with chunky jewelry, wedge boots or a cool bag (images: COS).

The more muted, clean & tailored collection from the FW09 lookbook (images: COS).

Address: 222 Regent Street, London W1B 4
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 10:00-20:00, Thu: until 21:00, Sun: 12:00-18:00
COS Homepage