Yohji Making Waves / Yohji's Women (London, UK)

The Wapping Hydraulic Power Station.

If you're in London, you may have noticed that the city is presently celebrating all things Yohji Yamamoto. In addition to the newly opened Y-3 flagship store, one of the most talked about happenings is the series of exhibitions that was unveiled last month in honor 0f the iconic Japanese designer. The main feature is the retrospective currently held at the V&A museum, which I'll be posting about as well. However, I thought I'd start backwards (in the order I actually visited these exhibits) and begin with the other two parts of the series first which are now on display, courtesy of The Wapping Project.

Yohji Making Waves

First off, I'd like to thank Google Maps (iPhone) for giving me very accurate directions to this place - the large Boiler House of the Wapping Hydraulic Power Station - which lies somewhat off the beaten path. Now that I know where it is, I might go back though, because the first thing I saw once I entered the spacious interiors was a very cool-looking bar/restaurant. This is also where I caught my first glimpse of Yohji magic, in the form of the FW98 runway show which was running on several TV screens towards the back of the room.

Inside the power station, the restaurant area was decorated with TV screens featuring Yamamoto's runway shows.

The actual installation was in a separate room and showcased only one major piece: the celebrated , oversized white silk wedding dress with bamboo crinoline from the aforementioned FW98 collection. Suspended upside down from huge metal tanks which form the roof of the Boiler House, the gown seemingly falls towards a bottomless tank of water below. Once I entered this area, it was like stepping into another world. Immersed in the dark - with the exception of the illuminated dress in the center and the sparse lighting towards one wall - I was greeted only by the sound of dripping water and ambient noise from the speakers, in addition to the reflection, shadows and movements of the gown interacting with the light and water.

The wedding dress as seen in its normal upright position.

I took most of these photos from the platform, but a small wooden boat will enable a closer look of the piece if required (a boatman is included). According to the official description of the installation - "This is a calm, contemplative work which should also disarm and amuse, bringing together a sense of fun and juxtaposing it with an austere beauty. Paradox lies at the heart of Yohji Yamamoto's clothes and it is with this striking installation that we attempt to do justice to his vision."

The gown on display inside the flooded Boiler House, suspended from the ceiling.

Close-up of the dress.

The dress and its reflection (left) and a close-up of the bodice (right).

I became a little obsessed with photographing the reflection.

A short video clip highlighting the sound and darkness of the boiler room.

Yohji's Women

A few days later, I headed to the second part of the Yohji series, which was hosted by The Wapping Project Bankside in a more convenient location (next to the Tate Modern) and in contrast to the above, offering a more contemporary setting. The compact exhibition space showcased the works of seven international photographers who had teamed up with Yamamoto in the past and who were said to have found their individual voices during their collaboration with the designer. Photographs on display came from the likes of Nick Knight, Peter Lindbergh, Craig McDean, Sarah Moon, Paolo Roversi, Max Vadukul, Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin.

Left: The first photograph on display: from the Yamamoto Fall 1999 campaign, featuring Maggie Rizer, shot by Inez Van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin. Right: Works from Paolo Roversi.

According to the press release "Yohji's Women expresses Yohji Yamamoto's love of strong women who do not fit the conventional magazine archetypes. His women are independent, exciting and can wear his complex clothes with authority. Theirs is a serious beauty which finds its expression in his work. The photographs capture the vigour, wit and intelligence of Yamamoto's works as well as a remarkable moment in time in which clothes, designer, icon, place and photographer spoke with one voice."

I've posted just a few of the works on display, though my pics don't really justify their beauty. Prints of all photographs can be ordered at the exhibit if you do want to take one of 'Yohji's Women' home with you.

FW87 campaign photo by Nick Knight.

Top: Works by Sarah Moon. Lower Left: From the FW87 catalog, featuring Naomi Campbell, shot by Nick Knight. Lower Right: Overview of part of the exhibition area.

Both photographs: Peter Lindbergh.

Both photos: Inez van Lamsweerde & Vinoodh Matadin, campaign forFW99 (left) and SS98 (right).

If you get a chance, I would highly recommend a visit. Both of these exhibits have free entry and while they're not as extensive as the main V&A retrospective, I was surprised by how much time I spent at each one. And if you're still craving a bit of Yohji after that - well, there's always the actual clothes...

Yohji Making Waves: 12 Mar - 10 Jul, 2011, The Wapping Project
Wapping Hydraulic Power Station, Wapping Wall, London E1W 3SG
Mon-Fri: 12:00-22:00, Sat-Sun: 10:00-22

Yohji's Women: 12 Mar - 14 May, 2011, The Wapping Project Bankside
65A Hopton Street, London SE1 9LR
Tue-Sun: 10:00-18:00, Mon by appointment