Maison Martin Margiela 20 - The Exhibition (London, UK)

The Margiela caravan in front of the exhibition entrance (top). Following the Tabi footprints to the exhibition (lower left) and various magazine clippings pertaining to Margiela over the years (lower right).

The last time I was in London, I made sure to check out the Margiela retrospective, which had previously been presented in Munich and Antwerp. Celebrating its 20th anniversary in October 2008, this tribute not only salutes one of the world's most influential and groundbreaking fashion houses, but displays never before seen work and harder to find iconic pieces. Unlike a typical retrospective, the exhibition doesn't rely on a chronological order (which generally tends to be a somewhat stale approach), but instead delves into the different themes Margiela explored during the last 20 years.

Having visited several fashion exhibitions in the past, I must say that this one was exceptional. I'm probably somewhat biased, since I am a Margiela fan, but I found the layout on all three floors to be cleverly done and unlike other presentations which tend to be overshadowed by the museum space itself, the white walls and decor instantly screamed 'Margiela', making you believe you were completely immersed in the brand. There were 30 sections in total, usually kept fairly small, so the exhibit was not overwhelming at all.

Although this post is (yet again) slightly overdue, there's still time to dive into the world of Margiela if you haven't done so already. The exhibition runs until September 5 and despite the fact that Martin Margiela himself has left his eponymous label, this is a wonderful reminder of everything both he and his team have achieved over the last two decades. Apologies in advance for bombarding you with all these photos (more, after the jump), but hopefully this will be a worthy replacement for those who can't make it to the showcase. But if you need more, I'd highly recommend the official exhibition book, available via Amazon here.

Top: 3D portrait of the Maison Martin Margiela team (not incl. Margiela himself). Giant hand displaying a list of all sub-labels (lower left) and overview of the ground floor (lower right).

The Tabi boots, incl. graffiti covered ones (lower left), ten interpretations of the boot in silver chrome (middle, top right and lower left) and an oversized blow-up Tabi boot (top right).

"Tailoring/Shoulders": A showcase of Margiela's experimentation with shoulder proportions over the past two decades. The runway birthday show footage is seen in the background.

Overview of invitations for fashion shows and showrooms (top). A trompe l'oeil canvas leading to the top floor entrance (lower left) and film footage on the Tabi boot production (lower right).

"Le Porté" shows how garments can be worn in different ways, such as dresses combined with various skirts (right) or jackets and dresses layered over other dresses (left).

"Paint" demonstrates how Margiela repainted various garments, accessories, but also furniture or interiors white. As items are worn, the paint cracks and reveals the true color of the original piece - a presentation of a hidden past and proof that history can't be denied.

The down duvet coat with detachable sleeves from FW99 featuring a floral projection (center) and a repainted London phone booth (right).

"Incognito" displays Margeila's love of anonymity, not only in relation to his own persona but also to the fashion house's branding (white label), staff attire consisting of white coats (top left), masking the models (lower center) or various items incl. taped up shoes (lower left), chiffon covered chain necklaces (lower right) or veiled boots (top right).

Overview of the top floor (left) and "Assemblage" - a sleeveless fur garment made from two second-hand fur jackets (right).

"Flat Garments" - I think the name pretty much says it all. I actually saw the circular leather jacket on the right at a sample sale recently.

"Trompe L'oeil" featuring pieces from SS06 (top left) printed with old photographs and photocopies of other garments. Jacket and long skirt from SS08 (top right) embroidered with different colored sequins to give the illusion of reflected light. Pumps with a fake mud print (lower left), silver plated collar and cuffs as accessories (lower center) and wig made from fur coats (lower right).

"Destroy": Garments made from recuperated or second-hand materials to illustrate the ageing process and the passing of time. Waistcoat made from broken dishes and wire from FW89 (top right) and woolen sweater in a coarse knit suggesting holes and wear from FW90 (lower right).

"Classical Wardrobe/The Trench Coat": Margiela's variations on the classic wardrobe shown here on the trench coat, incl. the cool pieces with the elongated collar that can be worn as a hood. These items are an example of Margiela's expert tailoring.

"Tailoring/Production Process": References haute couture and the craftsmanship involved in tailoring clothing. Elements that refer to the construction (pads, zippers, lining etc) are incorporated to the outside of clothing (center, top left). An original 1950s tailor's mannequin adjustable to every body shape (lower left). "Tailoring/Replica" shows reproductions of second-hand garments from different style periods (lower right).

"Artisanal Collection": Margiela's answer to haute couture - a luxury that applies to the hours of labour invested in production, not the actual fabric, which usually stems from recuperated materials. Black tape leather jacket (top left), strips of magazine articles as a jacket (top center), jeans made from leather trench coat belts (top right), vintage button top (lower left), elastic band jacket (lower center) and vest made of vintage gloves (lower right).

"Men": Installation for the men's collection designed for Pitti Imagine Uomo in '06 (left). 'Mugshots' of MMM models from '99 to present (right).

"Birthday Room": Compilation of images from fashion shows, films and photography.
"Personal Wardrobe" in the background shows private fittings for clients in Antwerp, Munich and London.

"Offices & Stores": Snapshots and items from Margiela flagships around the world. A scale model of the headquarter offices in Paris was displayed as well.

"Silhouettes": Five different body images and shapes of MMM outfits throughout the years (left).
"A Doll's Wardrobe": Clothing inspired by doll's outfits featuring enlarged details such as zippers or buttons.

"XXXL": An exploration of oversized clothing and accessories taken from various collections throughout the years. Pieces include a black vest (top left), evening gown (top right), jewelry (lower left), oversized belt and sunglasses (lower center) and giant false bangs (lower right).

Address: Somerset House, South Wing, London WC2R 11A

Opening Hrs: Mon-Sun: 10:00-18:00, Thu: until 20:00

Somerset House/Maison Martin Margiela Exhibition Homepage