Tsumori Chisato (Paris, France)

In the world of prints, you have those that are timeless and those that are so overwhelming, most people would rather stay far away from them. And in some rare cases, there are prints that can be adorable yet somehow retain a certain coolness. I've always found Tsumori Chisato's designs to belong to the latter category. The first time I sighted one of her creations, the cute drawings on her dresses reminded me of illustrations from some of the books I read as a child (such as Antoine de Saint-Exupéry's 'The Little Prince'). Yet far from being too kitschy, Chisato had somehow managed to create a balance between the sweet, edgy, feminine and romantic. Although at first glance, some of her stuff may seem a little too 'kawaii' or cute, the cuts and tailoring of the garments retain a certain sophisticated silhouette, resulting in an outfit that combines both manga-like qualities with a chic edge.

Tsumori Chisato FW09 runway looks (images: Tsumori Chisato)

A few ad campaigns from SS07-SS09 (images: Surface2Air).

Chisato, a graduate of Tokyo's Bunka Fashion College, started working with Issey Miyake in 1977 after which he helped her launch her own line in 1990. With a strong following in Japan already, she brought her collections to Paris in 2003 where she has since shown at Fashion Week and has a permanent showroom. Her biggest market still remains in Asia, where she has well over 40 flagships and stockists, but her fan base in Europe and the U.S. has grown steadily over the years. In an era when clothes can either be too serious and dark or too over-the-top 80s colorful, Chisato's fun surreal prints are a refreshing way to escape from daily life. I've long decided that even if I wouldn't wear every piece from her collection, I'd most likely purchase an armload of her quirkiest designs, which I could hang on my wall and just look at.

Window displays for FW09 featuring an Eiffel tower sculpture.

SS10 windows with a more summery seaside resort vibe.

Outside of Asia, Chisato only has one boutique, which happens to be in Paris - a city that is part of a recurring theme in her prints. Tucked in a quiet corner of the Marais district, the exterior is rather nondescript and slightly boring. But take a glance at the store window, and you're instantly whisked off into another world. The first photographs I took of the display installation belonged to the FW09 look - a romantic view of the galaxy with a sculpture of the Eiffel tower in the center. The SS10 range on the other hand showed a seaside resort with colorful birds circling the dresses on display. As elaborate as the windows may be, the rest of the store is kept in a simple clean design, one that lets the clothes and accessories do the talking, rather than distract from the merchandise in store.

Overview of the store (top image: paris.unlike.net). The tunnel-like entrance as seen from the back (lower left) and a few looks on the first rack of clothes (right).

Polka dots, stripes and cute prints, including the Eiffel tower spaceship and comic inspired illustrations.

The long shelves and sideboard along the wall which showcased tops and the most adorable shoes (yes, the flats feature satellites and stars).

Unlike some of Chisato's Japanese flagships, this one is rather small, but never feels stuffy. The clothing is arranged on racks aligned in a neat parallel structure that makes browsing rather easy and convenient. All accessories can be found on shelves along the far side of the wall. Because every garment tells a story, you'll most likely spend a lot of time here, especially if you're not too familiar with Chisato's clothing. This is probably also the best place to do window shopping. I've always found that going from dress to dress (or top) is like reading snippets from a different fairytale. There's one about a hot air balloon that travels into a far off galaxy, then there's a fable about crickets playing in a string quartet, not to mention the tale of the Eiffel tower that mysteriously turns into a spaceship and rockets off to outer space. Of course channeling your inner child isn't the best part of the outfits - they actually look quite good once you try them on.

More colorful clothes, such as the moon dress and colorful tunic from FW09.

Towards the back of the store you'll find the spacious seating area.

More goodies on the shelves including the Peace/Eiffel tower sweater and a matching tie.

The magic of Chisato doesn't just lie in the prints though. There are plenty of pieces that feature more conventional patterns, such as stripes or plaid. Others are kept in clean muted shades of black or blue. The detailing is worth noting as well, whether it's the appliqués, embroidery, sequins or the artful draping and tailoring of the more intricate dresses and coats. For those who aren't ready to embrace a dress featuring a sparkly moon, you can always head to the accessories, where you'll find similar illustrations on ballerinas, headbands or socks. For SS10 there's a range of colorful charming espadrilles available (in a floral pattern of course). Even Chisato knows that wearing a print head to toe will look a bit off, which is why every bright item can be paired with a more muted companion piece, whether it's a soft gray cardigan, a thick navy coat or a simple white blouse.

Aside from the galaxy inspired prints (left) I also sighted the most adorable Summer dress which featured crickets playing the violin (right) - how cute is that?

View of the cash desk (left) and the lovely bird installation that was floating above that area (right).

A range of t-shirts. The bolder ones featured illustrations of a cheerleader or a sequined doll face.

What makes the store so pleasant isn't just the clothes, but the airy atmosphere, achieved by the high skylights and the cozy pink seating area towards the end of the boutique. This is also where you'll find the spacious changing rooms. Near the large cash desk you'll find more adorable items, such as jewelry, keychains or belts. Because the store is small enough, staff will let you browse in peace, only assisting if you require a little help.

Stockings and small souvenirs near the cash desk (left) and the skylight, which gives the store a nice airy feel (right).

More racks of clothes as seen from the back (left) and the large changing rooms (right).

A selection of the other prints I saw in-store from both FW09 and SS10.

If there's a Tsumori Chisato store or stockist near you, definitely go check it out, if only to carry you into a fairytale dimension few other designers manage to achieve. And if you have trouble finding a store that carries her items, not to worry, there's an online store linked from the official homepage that carries a fair amount of the collection (though it's only available in Japanese) and there are a number of other online vendors that sell her pieces as well.

Tsumori Chisato SS10 runway looks (images: Tsumori Chisato).

Address: 20 rue Babette, 75003 Paris
Opening Hrs: Mon-Sat: 11:00-19:00
Tsumori Chisato Homepage